Originally Posted by turbovanman
Yeah, all the stuff from that timeframe is spotty at best. I've seen a couple threads on there from a few years later which seem to indicate that it will at least run the car in the driveway fairly well. I figure I'll give it a go, and I'm not out anything if it's a bust.
I think you can use the Toothed Wheel decoder with an 85 distributor. It has 4 teeth for the ignition signal with a half moon for cylinder #1 I believe. I will find out soon as I bought one to test.
Spark Mode: Toothed Wheel
Trigger Wheel Arrangement: Dual Wheel
Trigger Teeth: 4
Tooth #1 Angle: (Dont know yet)
Wheel speed: Cam Wheel
Secondary Trigger Active on: (Dont know yet)
And every rotation of: Cam
everything above is a bit of a guess, but I think its a good guess.
Brian
That might be a good option too. I would like to do wasted spark, but I'm not sure if the 2.2/2.5 mode will work with it. Either way, this will hopefully be fun.
From experience, I wouldn't. It will lul you into sense of security then, BAM, head gasket gone. Replace head gasket and everything is fine until it happens again. IMHO it's the same issue Gary Donovan was having with the HEP and stock electronics. There is too much stack up of tolerances with the timing belt/oil pump to intermediate shaft/distributor for the small diameter tone wheel and two hall effect sensors.
I went so far as to use the 2.2/2.5 code to run a C.O.P. setup on a 2.2. It worked great but under boost at the top of 2nd or 3rd I lost 3 random head gaskets. It wasn't a tuning issue either. It was a "glitch". Most blame the code, but I think it's a combination of mechanical and code.
You can't use the TBI distributor/HEP without a 2nd input for sequential, but it works just fine for batch fire and mega/microsquirt.
Last edited by glhs0426; 09-23-2023 at 03:22 PM. Reason: spelling
Thanks for the advice. How did you mount your crank sensor when you finally went that route? I wouldn't mind going that way, but there's not a great way to mount it with a non-common block engine right now, and those are my first two projects.
I cheated. The car was a Spirit R/T that had been liberated of it's engine. I used the crank sensor in the bellhousing and machined four slots in the flywheel. I used the a TBI distributor with 1 tab for reference of #1. The cam sensor (distributor) is just used to tell the computer which crank pulse is #1, so, not as critical.
Interesting. How were the slots machined? That seems like it wouldn't be too terribly expensive to machine. Did you use the stock TIII crank sensor?
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