MS2 Is also available in kit form. If you have the skills to build it I would recommend going that route. I paid just under $300 for my megasquirt.
MS2 Is also available in kit form. If you have the skills to build it I would recommend going that route. I paid just under $300 for my megasquirt.
Fully welded and balanced.
Now do you plan to cut a dowel pin in it or something to "key" it to the crank? Is the play that is in the bolt holes enough to throw your timing off?
I'd actually like to try and do this to eliminate the factory pickup at some point. Seems to float around too much.
Wayne H.
'91 Dodge Spirit ES 2.5L turbo 5spd
'05 PT GT 2.4T HO autostick (RIP)
'89 Plymouth Acclaim 2.5L turbo auto, "Slugmobile" yes, THE Slugmobile!
'89 Dodge Caravan SE 2.5L turbo auto, "Mean Mini" yes, Gus' Mean Mini! (Current best 11.699 @ 114.43 mph! - Oct 15th, 2022 Cecil County Dragway, MD)
MeanMini dragracing videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...URZLB1RxGYF6vw
and other cars, trucks and motorcycles
https://www.youtube.com/user/SlugmobileMeanMini
Yes, play in hole can throw off a few degree of timing, but there is no need to key it, I can check ignition timing with a timing gun and then adjust base timing within Tuner Studio (Megasquirt/Microsquirt tuning software)
You may want to buy a 36-1 wheel ring while I have them for sale.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...73#post1127573
Thanks Harry.
I think i should, at least I'll have one for the future.
Wayne H.
'91 Dodge Spirit ES 2.5L turbo 5spd
'05 PT GT 2.4T HO autostick (RIP)
'89 Plymouth Acclaim 2.5L turbo auto, "Slugmobile" yes, THE Slugmobile!
'89 Dodge Caravan SE 2.5L turbo auto, "Mean Mini" yes, Gus' Mean Mini! (Current best 11.699 @ 114.43 mph! - Oct 15th, 2022 Cecil County Dragway, MD)
MeanMini dragracing videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...URZLB1RxGYF6vw
and other cars, trucks and motorcycles
https://www.youtube.com/user/SlugmobileMeanMini
Megalog Viewer is awesome.
Originally Posted by turbovanman
I'll third that MegaLogViewer is great. I've been having fits trying to get the SD card logging to work on my MS3X. I think/hope i have it figured out now.
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
I haven't exactly found an answer searching the Web about Microsquirt or Megasquirt.
I saw in your first post you list "o2 sensor (AEM Uego with 5v output)".
Do they allow for the use of a wideband o2 sensor directly or do they require an aftermarket controller and only use the controller's output signal?
Originally Posted by turbovanman
this is awesome, I am going with the microsquirt next. getting my GLHS back on the road with this soon. awesome write up @tryingbe. I'm in for one of those wheels btw if not too late.
Sorry if I missed it, but what did you do for a grommet at the fire wall where the original LM wires went through? I would like to get Joy's Daytona going with Microsquirt soon.
I actually just pulled the original wires out and ran my own wires through the grommet. With all of my extra wires, for lights and accessories, there were more than enough to refill the grommet. I really like using the knockout plug for the MS cable though.
As for the MicroSquirt, I still haven't had time to get it wired, since I've been working on the RWD Daytona, but that's a whole other story. I still would recommend spending the money and just buying a MegaSquirt 3, since it would eliminate buying add on kits and be easier to program.
Thanks for the info. I was wondering if everything would fit through the original grommet. I might give that a try.
Could you please run down how you wired the inputs and outputs for the ac in? I'm a bit confused on that. Also where did you read about microsquirt installs and the like? It seems like the process of going from a project on paper to using the tuning software to get everything to work is a steep learning curve. Thanks in advance.
I just followed the diagram. http://www.minimopar.net/ecu/lm-1987-t2.html
Blue connector pin #3 for a/c cut out relay. This means ECU can disengage A/C like it WOT condition or if engine coolant temp is over 220F or whatever condition you set it.
Blue connector pin #11 for a/c input. This means the ECU can monitor the A/C on/off and can set a higher idle speed when a/c is turned on by the user. Though, my radiator blogs down my engine's idle speed whenever it turns on , so it might be a good idea to use radiator fan 12v as input signal instead of a/c input.
A.J. did his MS conversion in his Minivan first, I figured if A.J. can do it, so can I.
It sounds like you're overwhelmed. Focus on ONE step at a time.
Wiring is pretty simple, once you determine what features you need and want.
Once you have the hardware set up, then you can focus on the initial start up. Ignition table, fuel table, a/f ratio table can be all calculated using below:
https://www.useasydocs.com/theory/spktable.htm (all the way to the bottom)
https://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/vetable.htm
https://www.useasydocs.com/theory/afrtable.htm
You'd want set ignition timing and get the tune close enough for to start it and idle. Once it's warm, road tune time.
If you run into road block, make it post here or https://msextra.com/forums
Thanks a ton. I hadn't seen some of those links before. I'm going to keep at it, and hopefully, I will have the car running before school starts in a week or so...
10's AGAIN '07, '08, '09
TFB Fabrications custom billet machined parts for you Turbo Mopar