Wow, you did almost exactly what I did when I machined a 555 gear to fit on the Neon OBX. Except I was lucky that I didn't have to face the gear at all, and the existing 555 diff bolts worked perfectly once I corrected the hole pattern in the diff.
This has me curious. I wonder if the earlier 2.4L blocks have the correct bosses to mount the intermediate shaft carrier like the later blocks.
Jon J.
1989 Daytona ES 2.4L DOHC
2003 Neon SXT - gone but never forgotten
If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is!
So just to confirm, since I'm looking for one of these for a 523/568 hybrid build is LSD10812 the correct part number?Originally Posted by tryingbe
sold mine sorry
the number is correct. buy a quaiffee. its a better part
I'm don't know much about the neon engines, but I know JT had to Fab up a I shaft mount because his block is a non srt4 block and it didn't have the bosses for the I shaft bracket.
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This is what you want.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quaife-ATB-H...5ZN69l&vxp=mtr
Or
http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/lsd10812.html
If you can find one.
Right, but he was also using the turbo Mopar intermediate shaft to mate with the 568. There are several bosses back there on the 2.4, but I'm wondering if the SRT-4 intermediate shaft actually bolts up. [offtopic]Hopefully within the next 30 days, my Daytona and I will live in the same place again, so I can easily take 5 minutes to look at things like this. She needs a clutch release bearing anyway, so I'll get a good look then.[/offtopic]
Jon J.
1989 Daytona ES 2.4L DOHC
2003 Neon SXT - gone but never forgotten
If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is!
No he's running the same setup I am. A 568 with a srt4 quaife, srt4 I shaft, with DDS SRT4 axles. He said his block didn't have the bosses to mount the srt4 I shaft carrier bearing.
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Ah I didn't know he was using the SRT-4 Quaife, not the Neon unit. I'll have to look at his thread to see what he did. The good thing about people like you and him: if you guys fab something and it doesn't break, there's no way it will break at my power level.
Jon J.
1989 Daytona ES 2.4L DOHC
2003 Neon SXT - gone but never forgotten
If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is!
I'm here wondering what it would take to machine a SRT4 quaife to fit an A413 or if it's not possible...Maybe this will work. Just copied it out of my build thread.
So here's the low down on what i did to get to this point.
First was to find a bearing with a smaller cup/outer race diameter then the srt4 cup, but still used a 1.625 diameter on the bearing/ inner race. Luckily I found one that works and can be bought at autozone.
Next I bored both bearing retainers for the new cup/outer race. Both had to be bored to the existing bore depth, and a .100 shim was made and used between the driver side cup and retainer.
I used the a568 ring gear, and machined the center out, and finish bored it to 4.475". The 4.475" bore has to be on the absolute center of the gear, since this bore will center the gear on the diff. I also machined .050" step at 6.45 diameter into the face of the gear.
This is a pic of the locating hub machined into the srt4 diff. This also needs the be on the absolute center of the diff, since the ring gear locates on this hub.
This pic show the machining needed to the opposite side of the ring gear flange. First there was .100" machined off the thickness of the ring gear flange. The ring gear bolt circle on the Srt4 is 137.5mm and uses a 10mm bolts. The a568 ring gear uses a 139.5mm and a 12mm bolt. So since the a568 use a 2mm bigger bolt and a 2mm bigger bolt circle you can re drill the srt4 diff to the 139.5mm bolt circle (a568), and since it use a bigger bolt hole all the old hole are cut away. Now you need to counterbore the hole .250 deep for use with a set of arp bolts.
Last a little clearancing is needed on the case to clear the ring gear flange.
Couple more pics
Take both differential out then compare and contrast.
Or
http://turbosunleashed.com/shop/limi...ial-p-311.html
No chit. I don't have both to compare.
And you can buy a Peloquin direct now without going through a vendor, but the point is to have a cheap option from the millions of parted SRT4'S out there.
You would need a spacer between the ring gear and the diff carrier. Just like you do when you install a neon OBX in an a413. The flange for the ring gear is in a different place on auto vs 5-speed.
Never really look into it since you can buy a peloquin that is a direct bolt in. The main reason I wanted to use the Srt4 diff is because srt4 axles have a bigger splined shaft that fits into the trans. On a manual car this is where the axle normally breaks. Since running the Srt4 diff and axles I've ( knock on wood) never had an axle break in this area. Auto trans don't seem to break axles like manual cars, so I don't really see the advantage to using a srt4 diff in a auto. I don't even think it would be cost effective. Till you buy the diff and pay someone to do all the machining I don't think it would be that much cheaper than a peloquin. Might be worth it if you had the means to the machining yourself.
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The SRT diff only can be had for less than $250 normally and I live in an oilfield area that is full of machinists. I couldn't machine anything myself, but I could get it done by family, friends or a bunch of shops for beer in trade. For me, the benefit is equal traction, while being able to steer and not killing the stock diff. I don't have a problem breaking axles, but do have a problem keeping the stock diff from wearing badly in any burnout situation where wheel speeds differ any from side to side. I don't have the funds for a Peloquin and it'll be a challenge to to save up for. I may also look into what an a604 needs, since there's nothing for them anymore either.
Yeah if you have someone to do the machine work for next to nothing it may be a good option if you can phisicaly get it to fit. Yeah I've paid between $200 and 300 for the srt4 diffs I bought in the past. I had a lot time into figuring everything out to get it to work in a 568. Also alot of time machining all the parts. Machining hardened ring gears and diff parts is not the easiest thing to do, and many machinist may shy away from it.
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