They didn't state whos lifetime...Originally Posted by zin
They didn't state whos lifetime...
Neon OBX part number: LSD 10812
Mitsu OBX part number: 10813
Photos are the same.
http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/lsd10812.html
http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/obx-1083.html
Wavetrac is only $915.00 here:
https://www.vividracing.com/catalog/...iABEgK7MvD_BwE
See above.
Stop spreading false info!
Only cars with 420A (n/a Chrysler 2.0L) engine used the T350 transmission.
Car with 4G64 and 4G63 engines did not use T350 transmission. Don't buy a paper weight!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Eclipse
Last edited by tryingbe; 08-30-2017 at 03:17 PM.
Ahh... I see, the "lifetime warranty" is for the lifetime of the part! LOL.
I really had no illusions of having it replaced in my twilight years, just would have been nice to know it would be repairable in the future... But this is all racecar "junk", shouldn't expect any kind of warranty, just buy on reputation and with eyes wide open.
Mike
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government - lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." - Patrick Henry
Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny.
- Edmund Burke
I just said the photos were the same and listed the links for comparison. I wasn't trying to say the differentials are the same or interchange.
Last edited by ajakeski; 08-31-2017 at 06:43 PM.
Posting URLs for two LSD TM can't use and one discontinued LSD... What information were you trying to...? Actually, don't answer that.
Here is what everyone needs to know only LSD for T350 transmission with 420A engine will work with A520/A523 and their hybrid.
Only new LSD fits the bill, and that is QUAIFE.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quaife-ATB-L...ZYg5qn&vxp=mtr
No, block type LSD is not LSD at all. Avoid these junk.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-99-Mitsub...dYbI36&vxp=mtr
I wonder if there is another application that is similar enough to be adapted. Quiafe provides technical drawings of their diffs if anyone wants to compare.
Sorry late to this. Looks like I gave bad info. earlier. I got excited when I read an application for gen 2 Eclipse 2wd LSD from Wavetrac. I guess I missed the part when it said it was for TURBO applications. My bad. Only the normally aspirated GS and RS would have the Chrysler 420a/t350 combo. So never mind. Sorry Andy if I pushed you under the bus! Please forgive me if anyone got their underwear in a bunch over this!
Does seem sort weird that many companies that were carrying and advertising OBX in the past, now don't list anything for OBX. Must be non competing BS. I see that all the time in the big box stores. I may start calling some of these companies and seeing if they have any OBX LSD stock in house. I'll call MAP tomorrow and report back.
Todd
With some machining you can use a SRT4 Quiafe in a 523/568. I have not trying it in a 520/555 yet, but I'm fairly confident that it can be made to fit them too. Added benefit of the SRT4 Quiafe, is you can run SRT4 axles which have bigger diameter ends that fit in the trans.
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https://shop.quaife.co.uk/media/blfa_files/QDH1U.pdf
https://shop.quaife.co.uk/media/blfa_files/QDF3I.pdf
I'm looking at the drawings for the Quaife QDH1U (SRT-4) versus the QDF3I (Neon, etc.). The overall length of the differential doesn't look like it's an issue, but the carrier bearing snouts are pretty different. You would have to turn down the diameter and machine a spacer to fit behind the bearing on each side. In doing this on the QDH1U, the wall thickness between the bearing ID and the axle opening would end up 0.042" less compared to the QDF3I. Seems like a lot, but it might still be strong enough.
I haven't gotten to crunching numbers for the ring gear fitment and position. It's a little goofy because one ring gear bolts on from the driver's side and one bolts on from the passenger side. The bolt pattern (D1), bolt size, and mating diameter (D2) on the SRT-4 unit all appear to accommodate the Neon ring gear. Laterally, I don't know where the actual teeth will end up though.
Jon J.
1989 Daytona ES 2.4L DOHC
2003 Neon SXT - gone but never forgotten
If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is!
Sounds like you may be just the machinist for the job then Adam?
AJ (no More Alan) 84 Rampage RT TIII/568 Quaife 87 GLHS dealer optioned Red 16V Masi/568/Quaife
90 Masi 16V White/Ginger/Black
89 TC Masi 16V Red/Ginger/Black
86 GLHS #110 RoadRace Built 89 CSX-VNT Recaro Car
89 Turbo Mini 'Woody' 85 GLHT 'RedBox'
2014 Explorer DD'r 3.5Twin Turbo Ecoboost AWD and 500HP
My profile page has over 20,000 views, I'm somebody LOL
I been running a srt4 quaife in my 568 for a few years now. Here is the road map of how to do it. Search to page 77
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=62872Haha! You may by right!Sounds like you may be just the machinist for the job then Adam
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Photo Bucket Fail!
Mike
"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government - lest it come to dominate our lives and interests." - Patrick Henry
Bad laws are the worst sort of tyranny.
- Edmund Burke
I can see them. Did you search to page 77. I didn't use photo bucket when I posted pics of the diff.
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No Photos, just this:
Correct Don, But I've never used the Sentra end links, just more expensive Chromoly spherical rod ends.
Nope that is not the correct sway bar mod that will negate an LSD. The problem and what you're trying to get rid of is suspension movement binding. With the stock bushings and shimming it on top of that you're just causing it to bind more. Eric Huesliche (I know I butchered the spelling of his last name) explained way back in 98 on the neons not really needing an LSD because with equal weight on the tires they'll both spin evenly. Now that post is long gone I'm sure but I remember it. And until I got rid of the suspension bind was a little hesitant about it's theory. Now you don't want to stop at just the ends. You've got to go with Energy suspension D bushings in the center because they're the only ones that don't squeeze the sway bar so tight that it basically locks up and binds everything back up so doing the ends is moot if you don't do the centers.
Correct again.
It was page 77 on the app, but page 39 on the website. I don't know why it won't let me link the actual page.
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Because photobucket wants $400 a year from you. I would download all your pictures to your computer and host them somewhere else.
Maybe this will work. Just copied it out of my build thread.
So here's the low down on what i did to get to this point.
First was to find a bearing with a smaller cup/outer race diameter then the srt4 cup, but still used a 1.625 diameter on the bearing/ inner race. Luckily I found one that works and can be bought at autozone.
Next I bored both bearing retainers for the new cup/outer race. Both had to be bored to the existing bore depth, and a .100 shim was made and used between the driver side cup and retainer.
I used the a568 ring gear, and machined the center out, and finish bored it to 4.475". The 4.475" bore has to be on the absolute center of the gear, since this bore will center the gear on the diff. I also machined .050" step at 6.45 diameter into the face of the gear.
This is a pic of the locating hub machined into the srt4 diff. This also needs the be on the absolute center of the diff, since the ring gear locates on this hub.
This pic show the machining needed to the opposite side of the ring gear flange. First there was .100" machined off the thickness of the ring gear flange. The ring gear bolt circle on the Srt4 is 137.5mm and uses a 10mm bolts. The a568 ring gear uses a 139.5mm and a 12mm bolt. So since the a568 use a 2mm bigger bolt and a 2mm bigger bolt circle you can re drill the srt4 diff to the 139.5mm bolt circle (a568), and since it use a bigger bolt hole all the old hole are cut away. Now you need to counterbore the hole .250 deep for use with a set of arp bolts.
Last a little clearancing is needed on the case to clear the ring gear flange.
Couple more pics
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