36-1 wheel weld to the crank service. Gathering interest.

[tryingbe]

I ran it by cordes, he says it's ok to post here.

I had my friend using water jet to cut out a 36-1 wheel and weld it to my crank pulley.
My friend says he'd be interested in making more of the 36-1 wheel ring if there is a market for it.

36-1 wheel ring, $40 + shipping. No other service offered.
Used it on my car with the red body crank sensor. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...sition-sensor/


You'll need to fully welded to your crank AND have it balanced.
You'll also need to make your own crank sensor bracket.

This is what you'll be receiving. For 8 valve common block pulley.


Spot welded to the crank


Fully welded and zero balanced.

[iangoround]

I'm interested. I'd have to find a spare crank pulley though. Will it fit with the AC belt groove too?

[tryingbe]

My pulley above is a common block pulley with a/c.

[karlak]

If you said TIII I would be in.

[zin]

If you said TIII I would be in.

I can certainly understand the desire on this one. Gets rid of the neigh impossible to find new OEM crank sensor... Though I wonder if the accuracy would be materially affected by the diameter being shrunk down so much... Also, is the stock TIII a 36-1 wheel?...

Sounds like it is a possibility, though whoever wanted to do it would have to be the guinea pig, and accept the risks of ruined parts and wasted $$ in order to getter'done.

Mike

[tryingbe]

If you said TIII I would be in.

I don't have a TIII car, but judging from this picture, it looks to be difficult to mount the crank sensor.


http://www.allpar.com/photos/mopar/t.../turbo-III.jpg

[tryingbe]

Put a layer of primer and paint on mine.

[Force Fed Mopar]

I don't have a TIII car, but judging from this picture, it looks to be difficult to mount the crank sensor.


http://www.allpar.com/photos/mopar/t.../turbo-III.jpg

The 2.5 TIII I swapped into my Lebaron had a 36-1 wheel bolted to the front using a spacer and the crank pulley bolts. There was a custom made aluminum bracket that bolted to the back of the engine under the PS pump that mounted the sensor.

[zin]

Is it me, or is the sensor at an angle to the teeth of the wheel? If so, was there a reason? All the other crank wheel setups I've seen don't do that. ..

Mike

[Force Fed Mopar]

It the pic I posted the wheel is unbolted. When installed it was positioned correctly.

[tryingbe]

[tryingbe]

If anyone is interested, my friend can supply only the 36-1 wheel ring for you to weld on.

[Aries_Turbo]

how much is just the wheel?

Brian

[tryingbe]

how much is just the wheel?

Brian

$40 + shipping.

[karlak]

Are you still offering the full service?

[Aries_Turbo]

$40 + shipping.

is this wheel the one that is trimmed to fit the crank pulley? not the completely filled in wheel like in your build thread that you used to mark where the missing tooth should go?

thanks

Brian

[tryingbe]

Are you still offering the full service?

No, we currently offer just the 36-1 wheel ring.

Since you will have to make a crank sensor bracket as well by welding, it's better to pay for welding once than twice.

I used the bracket between the alternator bracket and engine mount and welded some 1/4 inch plate (you don't want the bracket to vibrate) to make my crank sensor bracket.



- - - Updated - - -

is this wheel the one that is trimmed to fit the crank pulley? not the completely filled in wheel like in your build thread that you used to mark where the missing tooth should go?

thanks

Brian

$40 is for the 36-1 wheel ring as seen in the first picture.

I still have the full wheel if you want it, $20 + shipping for that.

[Warren Stramer]

Nice piece! good to see people doing these projects, so don't take this wrong but, I built a trigger wheel almost exactly like yours and it worked very well till the tack welds broke during a race; engine died, wheel wrecked the mag pick-up and some other parts, and went flying around in the engine compartment. (The tone ring will grow with rpm enough to break the welds)
I had to redo it, but welded it around the full circumference and no more problems, till four yeas later when it broke the nose off my crankshaft. I failed to have it properly balanced.
I am in no way trying to discourage you; just trying to help your project be more successful. Learn from my mistakes.

[tryingbe]

Warren, your inputs are always welcome!! I talked to my welder, he said he was afraid of wrapping the wheel tooth, so that's why he didn't fully weld the wheel to the crank, but I'll be visiting him shortly to fully weld it then I can get it balanced.

Thank you for your valuable inputs!

[Warren Stramer]

Yes your welder is right about warping, I had to chuck my pulley/wheel assembly in the lathe after I welded it to true it up, But ,if you weld a bead, let it cool, then weld a bead 180 degrees opposite and let it cool, and take your time it might not warp. But, trust me, if you don't weld it completely around the circumference it will eventually fail.