I'm sure you're already "there" but since all four injectors share the same ground, then if all four flow the same, it has to be a driver issue.
I'm sure you're already "there" but since all four injectors share the same ground, then if all four flow the same, it has to be a driver issue.
John Laing
"The sole condition which is required in order to succeed in centralizing the supreme power in a democratic community, is to love equality, or to get men to believe you love it. Thus the science of despotism, which was once so complex is simplified, and reduced . . . . to a single principle."
-- Alexis de Tocqueville
"One of the methods used by statists to destroy capitalism consists in establishing controls that tie a given industry hand and foot, making it unable to solve its problems, then declaring that freedom has failed and stronger controls are necessary."
--Ayn Rand
"To evolve, you don't need a Constitution. All you need is a legislature and a ballot box . . . . things will evolve as much as you want. All of these changes can come about democratically; you don't need a Constitution to do that and it's not the function of a Constitution to do that."
-- Justice Antonin Scalia
I thought they shared the same power and the PM grounded them to complete the circuit? I've never really had an injector problem before, and I don't have the car back together yet so I'm really nowhere close to "there".
I really appreciate all the feedback on this problem, as I've never had a problem with just one piston, or just one side of the injectors. I've always had a catastrophic failure for the most part. lol.
86 Shelby Lancer Prototype
90 Daytona Shelby VNT
91 Spirit R/T
For your questions about SDAC, please contact BadAssPerformance
The benefit to a ball hone is that it simply puts a cross hatch in. A bar hone could potentially mess with the straightness of the cylinder wall.
What size and grit do you guys recommend?
My memory is just as sharp as ever but I have always used two grits, course and not so course. I do the major cutting with the first(and lotsa WD40!) and then just lightly finish with the fine, probably 1/4 as much time in the bores as the course. Not sure if you
ve looked into purchasing them Brian but theyre not inexpensive. Send me a PM if you want a loaner set...
AJ (no More Alan) 84 Rampage RT TIII/568 Quaife 87 GLHS dealer optioned Red 16V Masi/568/Quaife
90 Masi 16V White/Ginger/Black
89 TC Masi 16V Red/Ginger/Black
86 GLHS #110 RoadRace Built 89 CSX-VNT Recaro Car
89 Turbo Mini 'Woody' 85 GLHT 'RedBox'
2014 Explorer DD'r 3.5Twin Turbo Ecoboost AWD and 500HP
My profile page has over 20,000 views, I'm somebody LOL
3.5" ball hone. Grit depends on the rings. I've read a lot of different opinions. Some say if you use moly coated, use 320 grit, iron rings, use 240. Some say 240 is OK with moly.
I personally used 240 with my Mahle moly coated rings. We'll see what kind of wear I get. I used Marvel Mystery Oil for my lubricant with the ball hone.
Here is the one I used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-1-2-240-gr...UAAOSwTapV5ign
You have a spare block to test it on? I think I still have the one that got really damaged when the rod let go a while back.
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
I would highly recommend you go to Flex-hone's website and watch their how-to video. Biggest thing to be careful of is NEVER stop the hone in the bore, and make sure it's spinning before you insert it. Also soak it in your lubricant of choice before using it. It's a work out for sure. You have to run it up and down the bore fast to get the cross hatch you need.
OK, so it looks like the sealed power rings are moly coated of some type.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=212240&jsn=3
This is what I should be looking for in a hone then right?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLEX-HONE-TO...-/221576059327
Sweet. I have that on order so this project should be wrapped up soon.
Another hint I'll give you is don't use a cordless drill to run the hone. They tend to be stepped speed, not infinitely variable like the old corded types. You don't want to spin it fast because you can't over-stroke the bore that fast to get your 45* cross hatch pattern. It's a messy job, so do it someplace where you can sling oil, and wear old clothes you don't care about. As you bring the hone part way out the top & bottom of the bores, it will make a mess...
Like I said, watch the how-to video on Flex-hone's web site. It shows you exactly how to do it.
Thanks to all for the tips on the Flex-Hone. For my first time using one, I think it went pretty well. I would estimate that I have about a 30 some odd degree crosshatch in it. Not quite perfect, but fairly decent IMO. I should hopefully have the engine back together in the coming days.
looks like my stock '87 piston when it let go, pretty sure detonation broke mine, go forged i m o
later Dick Westerhof
I don't know the details on the joytona. What year ECU? Intercooler?
Brian
Originally Posted by turbovanman
How does the injector harness look? They use the same ground, but all of the connections might not be sound. That is why I made my own harness and soldered the connections years ago.
Bryan
86 GLHS #161, 2016 Impala
SDAC National Member, SDAC Buckeye Chapter Member
A man has got to know his limitations.....
When this one goes, it'll be time for some forged pistons in a common block motor for sure.
Tim Doyle's old T top 86 Daytona. 87 TII electronics with a stock 88 TII hard parts conversion.
It's either a harness someone made or repaired. I'll probably whip up a new harness for it.