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Thread: Joytona

  1. #81
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    Re: Joytona

    I noticed on the minivan brakes upgrade on the Omni's that the Raybestos red Severe Duty Superstop pads are so thick that I had to remove one of the two squeak shims in order for them to physically fit inside the caliper. Apparently designed for the slightly thinner (but more vented) minivan rotors.
    Todd

  2. #82
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    Re: Joytona

    Interesting Todd. Thanks for that tidbit. I've never thought about a thickness difference in rotors, but I have had the exact same difficulty you're speaking of before. It's amazing how tight some pad/rotor/caliper combinations have been when doing brakes for our cars.

  3. #83
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    Re: Joytona

    one of the mechanics at my defunct local dodge dealer drove his 90 shelby daytona in the winter on crab wheels .. several years running

    I have 92/3 iroc r/t front brakes / knuckle /caliper/rotor I've tested upside down on the basement floor with my crab wheels .. no issues ..

  4. #84
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    Re: Joytona

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Johny Dodge View Post
    one of the mechanics at my defunct local dodge dealer drove his 90 shelby daytona in the winter on crab wheels .. several years running

    I have 92/3 iroc r/t front brakes / knuckle /caliper/rotor I've tested upside down on the basement floor with my crab wheels .. no issues ..
    I think these will work just barely. I did rotate them around on the hub with the wheel torqued down and it looks like just a bit of the casting flash rubs the caliper. I agree that things will probably improve some when the pads bed in.

    Here is the progress from today. Even the dog was out to help with the process. I busted out the trusty home alignment tools and set to work. Fortunately, I was within about 1/4* on the camber, so I left that alone. I set the toe to dead even and called it a day. I'm sure it's never perfect, but I get good wear out of the tires with this method so I've never questioned it.

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  5. #85
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    Re: Joytona

    Quote Originally Posted by cordes View Post
    That's what I was hoping for, and is great to hear. Do you know where your wheels were cast? Mine were cast in England.
    I believe all of the Crab wheels were cast in England.

  6. #86
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    Re: Joytona

    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper1 View Post
    I believe all of the Crab wheels were cast in England.
    In my research, I found posts from someone saying that there were some cast here in the US. I could believe it since the Pizza wheels were cast in the USA, Italy, and Japan. I could also believe that they cast the vast majority of them in England since I've never seen any of the Enkei Pizzas in person, but have a couple sets from the US and Italy.

  7. #87
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    Re: Joytona

    I bedded in the pads today and checked the clearance afterward. They certainly don't rub, but holly cow do they hold in the heat. It was unreal how much heat those wheels suck up and retain. The pedal has enough travel that I wonder if it's a 24mm MC I was shipped when I changed it out. I'll probably bleed the brakes again and go from there.

  8. #88
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    Re: Joytona

    cast or forged ?
    most alloy oem wheels were forged thus they are really heavy

    can't say if the made in england deal is wheel width specific .. but it might be
    -only noticed it on the crab wheels myself ..

  9. #89
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    Re: Joytona

    I always thought all of our wheels are cast. They have the markings cast in them it looks like to me in the back.

  10. #90
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    Re: Joytona

    Pretty sure our wheels are cast.

  11. #91
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    Re: Joytona

    Quote Originally Posted by Reaper1 View Post
    Pretty sure our wheels are cast.
    Yup. Our wheels are cast. The forging process was/is too generally to expensive for mass production cars. Casting is cheaper, but not as strong, so they add more material for strength and the wheels get heavy. Forging creates a tougher material, so less of it is needed for the same strength, so the wheels can be lighter.
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  12. #92
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    Re: Joytona

    For the record, I do have one Crab wheel in my basement which is 6.5" and made in the USA.

  13. #93
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    Re: Joytona

    6 inch crabs I had years ago all said made in england ..I have another set of but haven checked
    (re finished 'em) yet

    my early eighties cordoba / lebaron ten spoke wheels were still forged .. in the day .
    I think 82 ? they quit makin those ??

  14. #94
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    Re: Joytona

    After our ill fated journey to the Tastee Cup last year, I'm now trying to get the car running again. I think I might have found the culprit. I thought it was the fuel pump, but with the way it fired up when jumping the coil, I wasn't convinced. The Z1 circuit is green with black tracer, so the wiring in the picture jumped out at me when I started to put the battery in. The stuff toward the strut tower is the failed headlight relay wiring which was also a problem last fall. The melted fuse holder, I'm guessing, is an attempt at I don't know what. I need to check my wiring diagrams and see what's going on here. I could have sworn that the Z1 circuit just comes out of the PM and the branches off all over the place. This looks like it will either be super easy, or a total pain....

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    Re: Joytona

    Well, according to the table on this site, a Walbro 255 can pull almost all the amps the 15amp fuse would let through there. Why a fuse on the Z1 circuit though? Trying to unwind the mysteries of previous electrical experiments underhood isn't the most fun thing in the world...

    https://www.autoperformanceengineeri...l/fpspecs.html

  16. #96
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    Re: Joytona

    Time for an update I suppose. I replaced that nasty fuse holder with a straight piece of wire and the car fired right up. I put in two new fuse holders for the headlights, and they now work fine with the exception of the fact that one of the bulbs needs replaced.

    I put nearly 75 miles on the car with no problems, so I knew I was overdue. On the up side, the car waited until after graduation at the high school today throwing a code 54 and not wanting to start at all.

    I’m hoping it’s just the hep, which it certainly could be. However, I pulled the negative battery terminal, and to reset the codes and got a code 11 when I rechecked. Once I cranked it again, I just got the code 54. So I’m getting at least some signal out of the hep.

    I left the car in the lot and will return tomorrow armed with a multimeter, a new hep, a known good power module, a few tools, and a prayer. I’m really hoping I don’t have to rewire everything going to the hep.

  17. #97
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    Re: Joytona

    Well, after a lot of trouble shooting this morning, I was able to determine that the LM was bad. My pile of defective LMs is getting very tall, and I think I only have one spare that most likely works. It might be time for a SMEC conversion.

    It also might be time for a new fuel tank. The fuel can slosh away from the pump with a quarter tank or less and then it takes a minute for the line to get filled back up etc. I’m guessing that the plastic sump has come undone and is now more of a hinderance than a help. I had the same situation in my NYer years ago.

  18. #98

    Re: Joytona

    Quote Originally Posted by cordes View Post
    It also might be time for a new fuel tank. The fuel can slosh away from the pump with a quarter tank or less and then it takes a minute for the line to get filled back up etc. I’m guessing that the plastic sump has come undone and is now more of a hinderance than a help. I had the same situation in my NYer years ago.
    A few years ago I bought a Daytona with a bad engine. Wondered why. I had it sputter on a quick turn. Traced that to the plastic sump issue. My assumption is that the prior owner to a long hard turn and had fuel slosh away and leaned out the engine...

    Long way of saying I would recommend you change that tank sooner than later...

  19. #99
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    Re: Joytona

    Quote Originally Posted by c2xejk View Post
    A few years ago I bought a Daytona with a bad engine. Wondered why. I had it sputter on a quick turn. Traced that to the plastic sump issue. My assumption is that the prior owner to a long hard turn and had fuel slosh away and leaned out the engine...

    Long way of saying I would recommend you change that tank sooner than later...
    That’s a pretty good idea. This car killed some pistons a few years back. I think there was a problem with the injector section of the harness, but this could have been a contributing factor. Thanks for the food for thought.

  20. #100
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    Re: Joytona

    Brian,
    I successfully got the OEM plastic baffle to snap back into place on one of my l-bodies. Used a couple strong flat bladed screwdrivers going through the rollover vent hole. Took me a while, but I was persistent because I think the aftermarket tanks baffle is practically worthless (at least for going around corners). It looks more like a small oil drain pan than a baffle to me.
    Todd

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