Updates? My vote is detonation unless the top of the piston edge's are melted. I cracked a few cast like that before going forged, then I broke everything else, You are also burning a lot of oil, so have the guides check and install new seals.
Updates? My vote is detonation unless the top of the piston edge's are melted. I cracked a few cast like that before going forged, then I broke everything else, You are also burning a lot of oil, so have the guides check and install new seals.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
I think it was detonation due to lack of fuel in 3 and 4. I threw in some TII rods and pistons. I’m making a few other changes too and hop to have the car on the road for spring.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
We're getting close. A few changes indeed. A ported two piece and stock exhaust manifold are going on the car, with a ported SV and turbine housing. 58mm TB will be on there along with my own AN lines and new fuel injection section of the wiring harness. It shouldn't be too long now.
What about the fuel injectors?
dont forget to get a lip on that 58MM... after coming on and off a few times my 58mm started to blow the line off under boost.
Cordes I've been saying mine is 'getting close' for 6 weeks now, always some other delay At least I've made it to the templating/final mock up/gasket cutting stage. Getting close
I'm gonna start with my optimized 52mm TB but after all the 'new set up' bugs are worked out I want to do a B2B swap with a 58mm and no othe changes to see if there is an advantage. Problem is, I can't find one, I bought one off ebay that *looked* like a 58(guy musta had tiny little chic hands) but it was a 52. Nothing avail from rockauto, where are you guys sourcing them from?
AJ (no More Alan) 84 Rampage RT TIII/568 Quaife 87 GLHS dealer optioned Red 16V Masi/568/Quaife
90 Masi 16V White/Ginger/Black
89 TC Masi 16V Red/Ginger/Black
86 GLHS #110 RoadRace Built 89 CSX-VNT Recaro Car
89 Turbo Mini 'Woody' 85 GLHT 'RedBox'
2014 Explorer DD'r 3.5Twin Turbo Ecoboost AWD and 500HP
My profile page has over 20,000 views, I'm somebody LOL
98-2000 3.8 vans. 1 vacuum port throttle body. no extra bosses for extra ports.
no lip on the end. straight out AIS normally. that you need to change.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/98-99-00-CA...L/401343399152
Done, thx. I searched 3.8 throttle body a few times, that one never came up for me
EDIT: Now can you find a gasket source I've bought 3 for the 3.8's, they've all been 52's...
AJ (no More Alan) 84 Rampage RT TIII/568 Quaife 87 GLHS dealer optioned Red 16V Masi/568/Quaife
90 Masi 16V White/Ginger/Black
89 TC Masi 16V Red/Ginger/Black
86 GLHS #110 RoadRace Built 89 CSX-VNT Recaro Car
89 Turbo Mini 'Woody' 85 GLHT 'RedBox'
2014 Explorer DD'r 3.5Twin Turbo Ecoboost AWD and 500HP
My profile page has over 20,000 views, I'm somebody LOL
Maybe this?
https://www.modernperformance.com/pr...ntake-manifold
or this?
https://www.modernperformance.com/pr...ntake-manifold
For that matter, has anyone tried one of those MPx 60 or 62mm TB's yet?
They look ancient, so I'm installing some good +40s that I had laying around
How did you address that? I haven't put enough boost through one to blow off the IC pipe yet, but I know that day is coming.
I've got a pile of them from the JY.
If anyone finds the PN, I would appreciate it too. I've been cutting 52mm gaskets.
phew! just wanted to make sure because you hadn't mentioned it in the post, these stock injectors are 30 years old now!They look ancient, so I'm installing some good +40s that I had laying around
I haven't been reusing them in my builds for about 15 years now. Anything that's seen enough boost to necessitate a 3 bar map has automatically gotten larger injectors.
I fired the car up today and it ran well. I need to adjust the shifter cables because it won't go into reverse now. Other than that everything is looking really good. There isn't any smoke coming out the pipe and I don't see any leaks. Hopefully the car responds well to all the mods and the engine holds together for a while. Joy just likes to drive it, so I think a strong TII setup will suit her well.
Thanks to all of those who have contributed to the thread. It was a huge help while I was doing this, especially since I haven't swapped pistons and rods like this in an engine before.
Final update on this. I got back today after putting over 800mi on the rebuild at SDAC. Some slightly spirited driving, but nothing crazy and the boost was only set at 7PSI. I'm 99% sure it was a failed LM which caused 3&4 to lean out and kill a piston. Regardless, I think the car will be good to go for a while. With how much Joy drives the car, it could last for many years. Thanks to all who helped with this process. I really appreciate all of the advice and feedback.
I didn't see a more comprehensive thread for this car, so I turned this into a project log.
Today we took the car out for the second time this year. I noticed that all four brakes were dragging when I took Joy out for dinner a couple months back. I deduced that the flexible trailer brake line Tim had used from the MC to the prop valve must have been sucking shut and locking pressure in the whole system. I replaced those with some stainless lines. Upon bleeding the brakes, the MC itself failed, so I replaced that last night. The brakes are decent, but it is apparent that I need to upgrade the fronts to match the 24mm MC.
Last night we went to a local car show and since there was the threat of rain and a smaller turnout, we were in the top 20 and received a trophy. I was surprised, as there were actually a lot of very nice cars there. We were certainly a standout though, as the only FWD car, and one of only two cars from the 80s. It was good to get out and represent the club with the car again.
nvmind - posted to out of date post ..oops
Well, I took one of the kids on a ride last weekend. We went about 40mi and the car seemed way down on power. It didn't take long to realize that the front brakes were dragging badly. Since I like to keep an extra 91+ big brake setup lying around, I decided to install that today. I've seen many posts about the big brakes fitting behind the 6.5" crabs, but either those reports are somewhat loosely defining "fitting" or the 91+ big brakes are a bit further out toward the face of the wheel than the 89 big brakes. The latter seems to make more sense to me. Regardless, they're on, but barely. The wheels don't show any signs of the wheels rubbing, but I'll be watching them closely. If anything, a set of RPF1s might be in order.
On to the pics...
I noticed that as well but after the pads got broken in I was surprised with the extra clearance. I also run crabs as my winters. I riun 91+ 11" fronts with 87-88 wedge disc on the rear. Hawk pads as per your suggestion. HTS Summer, LTS in the winter.. I love the LTS for the winter as they don't need warm up time and B) don't cool down at winter temp at highway speeds.
Regards,
Miles
DD '87 Sundance T1, SLH with rear disks
'87 CSX #432 2.5 CB TII, SLH
That's what I was hoping for, and is great to hear. Do you know where your wheels were cast? Mine were cast in England.