Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: L-body FMIC intercooler piping routing

  1. #1
    boostaholic Turbo Mopar Contributor
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Columbia City, Indiana
    Posts
    1,222

    L-body FMIC intercooler piping routing

    I want to ask for a little advice here. I'm finally getting to a point on my build where I am starting to contemplate my intercooler piping routing. I may not get much help due to my somewhat unique combination, but I hope somebody has some pictures to help me out. I tend to be real anal about planning projects. I like to think about and plan stuff for weeks before doing the work. Hopefully it keeps me from doing a job twice...

    Anyways, as most of you know, I'm in the middle of converting my Scamp from a carb, to an intercooled 2.5/5-speed. Several years ago, I converted the truck to a Daytona radiator because of cooling issues. I really want to keep the larger radiator, but that creates some space issues for intercooler piping. I have an intercooler with same side in/out to keep the piping all on the driver's side, and as short as possible. I really like what AJ had done on redbox, by mounting the tubes in the lower core support. Now is the time for me to do something like that, because I'm starting to prep the engine bay for paint. Unfortunately, not sure that is an option on a 2 door due to the nose attaching down there. So what have you great folks done on 2 door L-body's with an FMIC???

    Anybody have any pictures of their FMIC in an L-body WITHOUT using a small T2 radiator? I'm hoping it gives me some ideas for my routing....


    Thanks

  2. #2
    turbo addict
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Mesa, AZ
    Posts
    7,351

    Re: L-body FMIC intercooler piping routing

    I've got an aftermarket all aluminum radiator, a/c condenser, Volvo 940 radiator fan with custom shroud, custom top radiator hose with filler neck, 2.5T1 lower radiator hose, and everything else. Move the radiator as close to the alternator as possible would be the key, then work everything around it.








    Last edited by tryingbe; 05-12-2017 at 01:54 PM.

  3. #3
    boostaholic Turbo Mopar Contributor
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Columbia City, Indiana
    Posts
    1,222

    Re: L-body FMIC intercooler piping routing

    Thanks for the pictures. It definitely helps to see what you did.

    The Daytona radiator is a bunch wider than the original L-body one. I did move it over as much as I could.

    A couple years ago, I had a friend give me a like-new L-body radiator that I could install and give myself more room, but I like the added capacity of the G-body radiator. Never had any trouble with temps since going that route...

  4. #4
    turbo addict
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Woodville Ala.
    Posts
    1,727

    Re: L-body FMIC intercooler piping routing

    I don't have any pictures but I had a same side entry and exit intercooler. Similar to the picture posted by tryingbe!

  5. #5
    Super Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff contraption22's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Havertown, PA
    Posts
    9,517

    Re: L-body FMIC intercooler piping routing

    I kept the G-body T1 radiator on my car, and routed 2.5 pipes around it on the driver's side.

    What I did was relocate the alternator to where the A/C compressor would sit. I removed the A/C of course. We took the factory non-AC bracket and machined the belt side of it flat, then drilled and tapped a hole for an idler pulley. We also clearanced the v-shaped support around the alternator through bolt so that the alternator could flip up to the higher position. For an upper bracket, we made a u-shaped bracket that bolted to the cylinder head across the A/C bracket bolt-bosses, that stilled allowed access to the #1 spark plug. From that bracket we used a turnbuckle extension bracket to tension the alternator belt.

    Yeah it sucks without pictures.... but it worked well, and I never had a alternator belt squeak again!


    I welded new brackets to the lower rad support to hold the oe rubber feet of the Daytona radiator in it's new position.
    Mike Marra
    1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
    Project Log:
    http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=

  6. #6
    boostaholic Turbo Mopar Contributor
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Columbia City, Indiana
    Posts
    1,222

    Re: L-body FMIC intercooler piping routing

    Quote Originally Posted by contraption22 View Post
    I kept the G-body T1 radiator on my car, and routed 2.5 pipes around it on the driver's side.

    What I did was relocate the alternator to where the A/C compressor would sit. I removed the A/C of course. We took the factory non-AC bracket and machined the belt side of it flat, then drilled and tapped a hole for an idler pulley. We also clearanced the v-shaped support around the alternator through bolt so that the alternator could flip up to the higher position. For an upper bracket, we made a u-shaped bracket that bolted to the cylinder head across the A/C bracket bolt-bosses, that stilled allowed access to the #1 spark plug. From that bracket we used a turnbuckle extension bracket to tension the alternator belt.

    Yeah it sucks without pictures.... but it worked well, and I never had a alternator belt squeak again!


    I welded new brackets to the lower rad support to hold the oe rubber feet of the Daytona radiator in it's new position.

    Intersting way of doing that.

    I don't have A/C on the Scamp so that may be a possibility....

  7. #7
    Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff Force Fed Mopar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Greenville/Spartanburg SC area
    Posts
    7,557

    Re: L-body FMIC intercooler piping routing

    I ran mine under the radiator support towards the outer ends in my old GLHS IIRC. Or around the sides of it maybe. I had an SRT4 intercooler and mounted it in a couple different ways over time. At one point it was horizontal lol.
    Rob M.
    '89 Turbo GTC

    2.5 TIII stroker, 568 w/ OBX and 3.77 FD

  8. #8
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor iTurbo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Gillette, Wyoming
    Posts
    5,384

    Re: L-body FMIC intercooler piping routing

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Screen Shot 2017-05-13 at 9.32.44 AM.png 
Views:	497 
Size:	601.6 KB 
ID:	60724

    I used a large Isuzu NPR intercooler and the stock Omni radiator in this setup. The piping is 2.75" mandrel bent aluminum from ATP Turbo.

  9. #9
    Hybrid booster
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Flemington, NJ
    Posts
    458

    Re: L-body FMIC intercooler piping routing

    similar I iTurbo. Small npr. Stock radiator. 2.5" piping


  10. #10
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor iTurbo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Gillette, Wyoming
    Posts
    5,384

    Re: L-body FMIC intercooler piping routing

    ^ That is the nice thing about the NPR intercoolers. The stock Omni radiator just fits so nice between the I/O. I did have to modify the stock radiator, but only to change the coolant overflow 3/8" nipple about 180'. No cutting of the car at all, not even the center radiator hood support. The car is currently back to bone stock TI/A525 save for the ported head from Todd Nelson.

    I keep telling my brother (who owns the car now), we should put this TII I built into it and put this badass IC setup in it.....but he is more than happy with the current performance. ----, even without an intercooler and 10 psi of boost via a grainer valve I made it shreds mad tire through 2nd gear! I guess a healthy engine is worth a lot!

    Way back when I had this big NPR intercooler setup, it was with a nearly 200k mile 2.5L Caravan turbo motor. It was quick and fun but it smoked a bit and finally gave up the ghost racing (and beating!) a Subaru STI. I've always wanted to dyno the Omni again because it is damn near as fast as it was back then with the current '85 log TI setup.

  11. #11
    Hybrid booster
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Flemington, NJ
    Posts
    458

    Re: L-body FMIC intercooler piping routing

    Had to move radiator towards the alternator (stock) an inch. Had to move the overflow bottle an inch to the drivers side. No other adjustments. Needed a slimmer electric fan. That was it.
    I have the bigger NPR but it wouldn't fit unless I went to nippendso alternator.

  12. #12
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor 2.216VTurbo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    SoCal the OC
    Posts
    6,675

    Re: L-body FMIC intercooler piping routing

    The Rampage RT set up is like this
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMGP5061.jpg 
Views:	270 
Size:	503.1 KB 
ID:	60741   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMGP5062.jpg 
Views:	412 
Size:	512.0 KB 
ID:	60742   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMGP5063.jpg 
Views:	267 
Size:	508.1 KB 
ID:	60743   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMGP5068.jpg 
Views:	231 
Size:	510.2 KB 
ID:	60744   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMGP5054.jpg 
Views:	189 
Size:	528.4 KB 
ID:	60745   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Rampage Griffen radiator.jpg 
Views:	323 
Size:	309.8 KB 
ID:	60746  

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Rampage RAD INT.jpg 
Views:	257 
Size:	471.0 KB 
ID:	60747  

    AJ (no More Alan) 84 Rampage RT TIII/568 Quaife 87 GLHS dealer optioned Red 16V Masi/568/Quaife
    90 Masi 16V White/Ginger/Black
    89 TC Masi 16V Red/Ginger/Black
    86 GLHS #110 RoadRace Built 89 CSX-VNT Recaro Car
    89 Turbo Mini 'Woody' 85 GLHT 'RedBox'
    2014 Explorer DD'r 3.5Twin Turbo Ecoboost AWD and 500HP
    My profile page has over 20,000 views, I'm somebody LOL

  13. #13
    boostaholic Turbo Mopar Contributor
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Columbia City, Indiana
    Posts
    1,222

    Re: L-body FMIC intercooler piping routing

    Thanks for all the pictures guys. They all help a bunch.

    I was out working on it last night, and did some mocking up with the L-body radiator I have, and I think it will just be much easier to use that than the Daytona radiator. By using the mounts I relocated on the passenger side, it gave me plenty of clearance on the driver's side to pass the intercooler hoses by the radiator. In fact, after mocking some stuff up, I might just be able to put the intercooler where the A/C condenser used to sit in front of the radiator. It will be tight, but it might work...
    Last edited by 83scamp; 05-15-2017 at 09:18 AM.

  14. #14
    turbo addict Turbo Mopar Contributor iTurbo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Gillette, Wyoming
    Posts
    5,384

    Re: L-body FMIC intercooler piping routing

    ^ That's what I did. The big NPR IC sits right where the AC condenser was. It was a tight fit, but in the end it almost seems like a big IC was made to fit there. I have no need for AC in Wyoming though, so that made things a lot easier.

    If I remember right, I ended up moving the stock Omni radiator about 3" over toward the passenger side and it ended up about 1" closer to the engine. On the radiator hoses, I was able to simply trim the lower radiator hose a bit and found a suitable upper radiator hose at NAPA. I used an aftermarket Derale Tornado electric fan with a sheet metal shroud bent up by a local heating/AC company. Someday I might reintegrate the setup back into the Omni but so far my bro and I are totally happy with the new (old?) log TI setup.

    Also, I used a 90 amp Nippondenso alternator with the NPR setup. I had to cut off one of the (unused) ground lugs off the case to make room for the new radiator position, but after that it all fit great.

  15. #15
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Sylmar, CA
    Posts
    2,584

    Re: L-body FMIC intercooler piping routing

    The alternator can also be "sucked in" tighter to the block by cutting a piece out of the center of the support/tensioning bracket and then welding it back together for a shorter bracket. The stock belt is then too long but I found a shorter belt. It won't suck the alternator in enough to clear the radiator but it will suck it in enough to help with an intercooler in front of the radiator.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Alternator & IC .JPG 
Views:	214 
Size:	1.74 MB 
ID:	60752  
    John Laing

    "The sole condition which is required in order to succeed in centralizing the supreme power in a democratic community, is to love equality, or to get men to believe you love it. Thus the science of despotism, which was once so complex is simplified, and reduced . . . . to a single principle."
    -- Alexis de Tocqueville

    "One of the methods used by statists to destroy capitalism consists in establishing controls that tie a given industry hand and foot, making it unable to solve its problems, then declaring that freedom has failed and stronger controls are necessary."
    --Ayn Rand

    "To evolve, you don't need a Constitution. All you need is a legislature and a ballot box . . . . things will evolve as much as you want. All of these changes can come about democratically; you don't need a Constitution to do that and it's not the function of a Constitution to do that."
    -- Justice Antonin Scalia

Similar Threads

  1. Turbos/Intercoolers Turbonetics Super 60 turbo and complete Omni FMIC/piping/bov package
    By mike radowski in forum Parts For Sale
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 08-21-2016, 12:30 PM
  2. Replies: 20
    Last Post: 01-28-2013, 10:57 AM
  3. Intercooler piping help
    By 1984rampage in forum Turbos & Intercoolers!
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 04-17-2008, 11:31 PM
  4. Replies: 9
    Last Post: 02-03-2007, 03:51 PM
  5. Routing intercooler piping on a P-Body
    By CSXTacy in forum Turbos & Intercoolers!
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 03-28-2006, 03:41 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •