Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Weatherstrip source

  1. #1
    Hybrid booster
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Orlando
    Posts
    496

    Weatherstrip source

    Has anyone found a source for the door window weatherstrip? I have a some that I picked up at Rossion, but its for the top and sides, looks like it will work, but I'm looking for the lower window scraper part on the bottom edge.
    Any ideas?
    Last edited by player1up; 04-27-2017 at 01:15 PM.

  2. #2
    Garrett booster
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    florida, st augustine
    Posts
    71

    Re: Weatherstrip source

    Quote Originally Posted by player1up View Post
    Has anyone found a source for the door window weatherstrip? I have a some that I picked up at Rossion, but its for the top and sides, looks like it will work, but I'm looking for the lower window scraper part on the bottom edge.
    Any ideas?
    im looking too :P

    let me know if you find something that works well.

  3. #3
    Hybrid booster
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Orlando
    Posts
    496

    Re: Weatherstrip source

    I've dealt with steele rubber in the past. Good folks. I may have to call them up to see if they have anything that's not in their catalog.

    The main issue is that it's flocked backed glue on edge trim. It's not just a rubber flap seal or something like that.

    Imagine an " h " with the stick pointing at roughly a 45° angle toward the glass.
    It's not your typical screw on , clip on type beltline.
    Most of the smallish parts on these are off the shelf so I'm hoping that it's just a matter of time before I find it.

    For example:
    Rear window seal is as1660 ( still made by CRLaurence )
    Door seals are st36A ( still made by CRLaurence )

  4. #4
    Hybrid booster
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Orlando
    Posts
    496

    Re: Weatherstrip source

    From the numerous calls to suppliers and manufacturers I'm beginning to believe that the seals were custom made.
    Manufacturers are willing to make them but require a 2000-3000 foot minimum run and from the huge box of seals I saw down there it seems as that might have been what was done because there was a ton of the stuff.

    Did anyone pickup any of the window seals when they were there?
    I'm wondering if there were both types in the box and I didn't notice when I bought mine.

    If not, the only feasible option is to retrofit something that's readily available...and that's gonna suck

  5. #5
    Hybrid booster
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    650

    Re: Weatherstrip source

    Any idea where the seals were? Or with what stuff? Next time at Rossion I can check it out.

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Hybrid booster
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Orlando
    Posts
    496

    Re: Weatherstrip source

    The seals were in a large-ish box in the containers on the right as you're looking at them.

    The seal I have looks like this:
    П\ ( <-- flocking on this side ) lip points to the seal opening

    The seal I need looks like this
    Ц ( <-- flocking on this side ) lip points away from the seal opening ( not to scale, the flap is about 1/2" long )

  7. #7
    Hybrid booster
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    650

    Re: Weatherstrip source

    Ok. I am hoping to run up there this week.

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Hybrid booster
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Orlando
    Posts
    496

    Re: Weatherstrip source

    Here's what I've found out so far.

    Rigid exterior beltline will bend but not enough to match the rear swoop up. Adapting any sort of completely straight METAL rigid molding is out.
    It's a damn shame too because the exterior molding from a 90's cherokee has the right depth and flap length.
    The inner beltline of all of the cars I checked is completely rubber and adapts easily to the rear curve...BUT the flap tends to want to ripple if it's too long and rubber is almost too flexible.

    I'm working this on a few different fronts:
    I'm still hoping to find something that's easily adaptable but baring that, the idea of mating 2 moldings isn't out of the question BUT after today's yard trip I have 2 new candidates ( late 90's s10 and tahoe ) that happen to be plastic and should be able to be heated and molded to whatever I need.
    I found a molding that has roughly the same shape on some website and ordered a sample, but it has no flocking ( it can have flocking added to it later )

    Stay tuned for updates over the next week or so.

  9. #9
    Hybrid booster
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Orlando
    Posts
    496

    Re: Weatherstrip source

    Full size chevy for the win.
    Basically the tahoe molding is plastic and can be heated up and molded to fit the car. It has the same flange depth and is pretty close on flap length.
    I'll take some pics of the modifications when I get the next set for the actual replacement. This is just a rough in to see if it worked.

    The rear detail shows a dent I put in the molding by pressing down on it a little too hard while it was too soft.
    Front detail shows the front isn't cut flush and is rounded at the bottom, but I broke a piece off the end when I was trying to bend it the first time without enough heat so I had just barely enough left to make this one so I had to keep the rounded front.


    This is the old molding:
    http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...psohebykmb.jpg

    Modified new molding:
    http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...pszvco0jhe.jpg

    Front detail:
    http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...psanvw5szt.jpg

    Rear detail:
    http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...pscswkmyjf.jpg


    I'll be picking up some new moldings for the final replacement, nailing down the exact year truck and writing up detailed descriptions on the mods, but I think this is a real alternative to having custom sweeps made.

    Sorry for the pic links, but for some reason when I try to embed the pics the site locks up

  10. #10
    Hybrid booster
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Orlando
    Posts
    496

    FOUND! Beltline weatherstrip alternative

    1999 Tahoe, Suburban 4 door: Outer rear door beltline part number 15991899 ( same left and right. I pulled both just for part number verification. )
    They're long enough to be cut to length.

    The fronts are: Left 15991405 / Right15991406 and are even longer but are a pain to pull out at the local yard because they are captured by the door mirrors and I didn't have enough time at lunch to dig into the door that far. The rears just lift off and are plenty long enough

    Since the Consuliers uses the same seal inner and outer, I'm figuring that's what I'll do as well.

    A quick google on the part number shows that the rear sweeps are available new for between $50-$80 each shipped.
    I picked up 4 rears to use on my car that are soft enough to be usable...AND they were almost free ( I wont feel bad about screwing up a free molding vs cutting up $100 worth of parts ) There were tons of trucks out there, but most of the flaps were ROCK hard.

    I'll take a bunch of pics and measurements as I do the final install.

    OH, If anyone needs the upper and sides, let me know and I'll get you some, I have better part of 100' of the stuff if not more. It's NOS and a little worbbley from sitting bunched up in a box for 20 yrs but should be good for replacements when it's glued flat.

  11. #11
    Hybrid booster
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Gilbertsville, PA
    Posts
    529

    Re: Weatherstrip source

    Awesome. Thanks for the legwork. I'll be in touch as my projects start seeing some form of progress.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

  12. #12
    Hybrid booster
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Orlando
    Posts
    496

    Re: Weatherstrip source

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveSkrab View Post
    Awesome. Thanks for the legwork. I'll be in touch as my projects start seeing some form of progress.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    No problem at all. Glad to be able to help. Just let me know what you need.
    I can't imagine how hard taking care of these cars would be if each of us had to do it on our own, and big thanks to TM for providing a place for us.

  13. #13
    Hybrid booster
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Orlando
    Posts
    496

    Re: Weatherstrip source

    I'll be linking to the pics since either the site or my pc is wiping my post when I try to embed them.

    Since one side of the GM moldings is too long we need to get rid of that. Just score with a knife and break it off. This makes the inner part of the U channel the same length as he outside.
    http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...psiwttxx2r.jpg
    http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1lrjo9jt.jpg ( No, I did not use my counter top to cut )
    I don't think it interferes with anything inside the door, but if you leave it long it's almost impossible to get the right bend.
    This is what it'll look like when it's the same length on both sides of the U
    http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...pszvco0jhe.jpg

    The front of the molding gets relief cut to allow the vertical molding to "die" into/behind the beltline rather than trying to 45° it, doesn't match up or look good, besides this is the way a lot of car manufacturers do it.
    http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...psyt1er3ot.jpg

    The phone pic is pretty crappy but the piece of paper says heat and stretch radius. If you don't stretch the U portion, the flap will bunch up and look like crap.
    Basically you heat from below ( blow up into the U with the heat gun on LOW SETTING ) and pull while putting the bend in. I recommend gloves.
    http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...pszbz1c2u6.jpg

    This is the difference between stretched and not stretched. Notice how the flap on the outer molding is all wavy. Don't worry, that's still the test piece and is shown as an example of how not to do it.
    http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...psrva1x7if.jpg

    Tips:
    If I were to make a bunch of these, I'd make a metal template for the curve, would have been a lot easier to bend and let cool.
    Remember, these cars were built by hand and have...some irregularities... don't try to use the one you just made as a template, use the car.
    The plastic moldings are pretty resilient and can be heated and cooled quite a few times. Go easy with the heat gun so it doesn't melt the plastic.

  14. #14
    turbo addict
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Coos Bay, Oregon
    Posts
    5,439

    Re: Weatherstrip source

    I used the weather strip rubber from the sliding door area of a 2006 era dodge mini van on mine a few years ago,
    Great stuff for great cars! Poly engine mounts and bushings at: http://www.polybushings.com

  15. #15
    Hybrid booster
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Orlando
    Posts
    496

    Re: Weatherstrip source

    That works for the actual opening. Seal attaches to the car opening.
    This is for the beltline / window scrapers / fuzzies

    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny View Post
    I used the weather strip rubber from the sliding door area of a 2006 era dodge mini van on mine a few years ago,

Similar Threads

  1. Weatherstrip vendors!!!!!!!!
    By 2.2RAMPAGE84 in forum Interior & Exterior Restoration
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 09-17-2012, 10:20 PM
  2. General WTB 87-89 2 dr. P body outer weatherstrip both sides
    By 4 l-bodies in forum Parts Wanted
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 03-19-2011, 01:25 PM
  3. Interior door weatherstrip
    By 85/1ownerShelCharger in forum Parts Wanted
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 10-17-2009, 11:17 AM
  4. General NOS Daytona T-top opening weatherstrip
    By steve340 in forum Parts For Sale
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 03-16-2009, 07:57 PM
  5. Aftermarket Weatherstrip
    By Tony Hanna in forum Interior, Exterior and Chassis Modifications
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 01-10-2007, 03:29 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •