I'm dreaming of building a TIII bigger then a 2.2, but don't like the idea of losing the security of a steel crank. Just wondering if anyone ever used an offset ground or welded steel crank to get more cubes.
I'm dreaming of building a TIII bigger then a 2.2, but don't like the idea of losing the security of a steel crank. Just wondering if anyone ever used an offset ground or welded steel crank to get more cubes.
Chrysler did, 2.5L is the stroker version of 2.2L, even sharing the same connecting rods.
But isn't the 2.5 crank cast instead of forged?Originally Posted by tryingbe
More than a few here have made alot of power with the 2.5 crankshaft. Even being cast iron it is still quite stout.
1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 400,000 miles. "the science experiment"
1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore ?
The aftermarket made 2.5 steel cranks back in the day, but they cost an arm and a leg back then. Today, you might also need to sell some body parts for what people may want to part with one.
I would estimate it would cost at least $1500-2000 maybe more for someone to weld and re-machine, re-index, a steel crank for more stroke. IMO, not very cost effective to do.
Especially when you see the price of a custom billet from a lesser brand. Not ridiculous.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
One area of concern would be the radius.
As our cranks have the prefered rolled radius any stroking would eat into it.
Thanks
Randy
There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.
Randy Hicks
86 GLHS60
86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
89 Turbo Minivan
83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
Edmonton,Alberta,Canada
stroking the 2.2 . on a T3.. might hurt the top end/rpm HP.. that thing is made to spin. and such in DOHC air flow..
Makes sense. Just doing some winter Internet engine building. Lol
I don't know of anybody that's overpowered a cast 2.5 crank.
Mike Marra
1986 Plymouth Horizon GLMF "The Contraption" < entertaining sponsorship offers
Project Log:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?69708-The-Contraption-2013-14&highlight=
Reeves broke a crank on his 9.99 pass. I mean, I heard him SAY that
AJ (no More Alan) 84 Rampage RT TIII/568 Quaife 87 GLHS dealer optioned Red 16V Masi/568/Quaife
90 Masi 16V White/Ginger/Black
89 TC Masi 16V Red/Ginger/Black
86 GLHS #110 RoadRace Built 89 CSX-VNT Recaro Car
89 Turbo Mini 'Woody' 85 GLHT 'RedBox'
2014 Explorer DD'r 3.5Twin Turbo Ecoboost AWD and 500HP
My profile page has over 20,000 views, I'm somebody LOL
You a funny guy AJ!!!!
Thanks
Randy
There is no logical reason to call an Engine a motor.
Randy Hicks
86 GLHS60
86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
89 Turbo Minivan
83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
Edmonton,Alberta,Canada
Actually he said he broke the crank earlier in the week...
Wayne H.
'91 Dodge Spirit ES 2.5L turbo 5spd
'05 PT GT 2.4T HO autostick (RIP)
'89 Plymouth Acclaim 2.5L turbo auto, "Slugmobile" yes, THE Slugmobile!
'89 Dodge Caravan SE 2.5L turbo auto, "Mean Mini" yes, Gus' Mean Mini! (Current best 11.699 @ 114.43 mph! - Oct 15th, 2022 Cecil County Dragway, MD)
MeanMini dragracing videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...URZLB1RxGYF6vw
and other cars, trucks and motorcycles
https://www.youtube.com/user/SlugmobileMeanMini
Yeah, she was, how do ya say .? . . . athletic, a real stroker.
John Laing
"The sole condition which is required in order to succeed in centralizing the supreme power in a democratic community, is to love equality, or to get men to believe you love it. Thus the science of despotism, which was once so complex is simplified, and reduced . . . . to a single principle."
-- Alexis de Tocqueville
"One of the methods used by statists to destroy capitalism consists in establishing controls that tie a given industry hand and foot, making it unable to solve its problems, then declaring that freedom has failed and stronger controls are necessary."
--Ayn Rand
"To evolve, you don't need a Constitution. All you need is a legislature and a ballot box . . . . things will evolve as much as you want. All of these changes can come about democratically; you don't need a Constitution to do that and it's not the function of a Constitution to do that."
-- Justice Antonin Scalia
And from what I've read on welding a forged crank, spinning them high isn't a good idea.
There are very specific heat cycles that need to be followed before & after welding to make it work, and it's almost guaranteed that the crank will have to be straighened after welding. I'm betting that after spending the money to get it welded & ground, it won't be any stronger than a factory cast 2.5 crank anyways.
Oh, and by the way, brand new factory 2.5 cranks are available on ebay for $197 shipped right now. I just bought one. I promise you, you can't get a forged stock 2.2 crank welded for that...
a link ?
Sure:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370585005909...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I've bought several oil pumps from this same company and am convinced they were seconds or rejects from Mopar. They had lots of suspicious paint marks all over them. Oil pump covers and gears were all flash rusted and all needed to be gone through before using them. They were also packed horribly. Company took them out of Mopar packaging so they could put them in a flat rate box. 4 pumps bouncing around in a box with no packing materials. Nicked up machined surfaces as well.
How did your crankshaft look? Flash rust anywhere, have you had it checked out for straightness, balance, how packed?
Todd
The crank looks good. It was packed in the original Mopar box, coated in cosmoline. No rust anywhere. I've bought head bolts and other stuff from them with no issues.
I have not had it checked. It's going in the block sometime in the next week so I can check bearing clearances & such. I'll let you know if I have any issues...
Just to follow up. I installed the crank the other night. I put it in the bottom half bearing shells of 1 & 5, and dial indicated the center journal along with 2 & 4, it was true. Had less than .003" clearance with the plastiguage on new std size Clevite 77 bearings, and it spun nice and free with everything bolted down and torqued. Less than .003" end play in the crank as well. Same with the rod bearings.
I wouldn't be afraid to buy a crank from them.
Last edited by 83scamp; 04-01-2017 at 01:20 PM.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
