clutch adjuster plastic pieces

[cordes]

I too am a huge fan of this. While I've never had a problem with one of the stock adjusters, I can easily see this being a great solution for anyone who has. I especially like how it will hold the end of the cable captive. That would eliminate it slipping out when trying to hook up the other side. I've had that happen a few times, and it can be frustrating.

[Tonatom2]

After a clutch replacement would you normally have to reset the stock plastic one?

This looks like a very nice set up.

[jonnymopar]

With the car sitting for the past 3 weeks, I got impatient not being able to locally source an M6 x 100mm bolt and went a slightly different route. I added a 2nd pinch bolt to the main block and sidelined the set screw/lower block idea temporarily:



So far, this is working perfectly and is a breeze to set up. A couple of 10mm wrenches is all you need. I'm still going to try the other idea with the set screw once the correct bolt shows up at my house, but this seems much simpler. Messing around with it, it almost feels like the single pinch bolt would work, but I don't have a crazy pressure plate setup. The redundancy is more peace of mind for me.

So even with the single block setup, you get:

- recycle a quadrant that has broken/worn adjuster teeth but is fine otherwise (this describes mine)
- don't need to pull the pedal out to install
- set the pedal height wherever you want
- no mods, totally reversible

I wish I had the resources to crank out a bunch of these and sell them cheap. I'm more than happy to get CAD models to anyone who wants them. Just gotta reverse-engineer what I've already done. This was a design-it-as-I-make-it exercise, so at best I have some notes written down. It's not really finished yet, but it sure as hell works nice!

[135sohc]

Step file ?

The large part would be a four op setup with the cross drilling and end threaded hole, the small one could be done in two.

I would add a helicoil insert to the threaded hole and a jam nut to preserve the threads and keep everything tight.

How long is the long bolt ? Mcmaster shopping to see the availability, inch threaded hardware tends to be cheaper than metric.

Edit: I see the bolt length @ 100mm, easy enough.

[jonnymopar]

I could create a step file. I'd have to pull the piece back out and confirm a bunch of measurements. I should make another one without some of the "cheats" I used on the first one (I didn't have a 10mm ball end mill for the cable end, so I used a 3/8" and then ran a 10mm drill down the hole, without disturbing the radius on the bottom. There's about a .009" step leftover, but close enough )

It's worth mentioning that the slot for the cable is cut at a 12 degree angle downward. If you look at the stock white plastic block, the cable slot tapers inward toward the end. This minimizes the break angle of the cable between the white block and the black quadrant. The below photo shows generally where the stock slot is (curved red line) versus how I cut mine (straight blue line). Afterwards, I took a small round file and put a radius at the end as well.



When I discovered that the two slots in the sides of the pedal were 6mm wide, I decided to just make all the hardware M6. No reason the adjustment bolt couldn't be 1/4"-20 or even 5/16"-18. Oddly enough, M6 x 100mm is a common size used in flat-pack furniture, so there were plenty of options online.

It goes without saying that I've only tested it in one car, with one clutch, for a short amount of time, so it certainly needs significantly more validation than what I've done so far.

[jonnymopar]

I've got STEP files available for anyone who wants to mess with this. Just PM me your email and I'll send them over! You'll need either one or two M6 pinch bolts the M6 adjustment bolt. Also, two features will need to be hand-finished:

• Where the cable exits the block, you'll want to take a round file and put a decent radius on the end of the slot. I'll post pictures later.
• I put a hole behind the little retention clip as a relief. You'll need to hog it out a bit more with a file or a Dremel for the clip to work properly. As is, the clip will deform when you go to shove the ball end of the cable into place.

If you decide to use the retention clip, it's here: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...cs/5230/643095 Use a #3-48 screw to install it. I may have a few that I can toss in an envelope

Personally, on my car, I think I'm going to stick with the single large block and the dual pinch bolts. It's working great so far. Others that have very stiff pressure plates may want to go the other way and use the second block with the adjustment screw. Either way, the whole thing installs pretty easily.

I will say one thing: it seems like the lower I set my pedal, the sloppier it becomes. I think it's because the tension provided by the stock spring kept the pedal in place nicely. Since that spring is gone, the only tension on the cable with the clutch released is literally the weight of the pedal itself, which isn't much. Currently I have mine set only slightly lower than stock and it feels pretty good.

Again, hit me up if you want the STEP files (or DWG or whatever you prefer).

[Aries_Turbo]

for those in the 3d printing realm, prusaslicer can convert the step file to .stl for printing.

Brian