I'm on my second sets of plastics in 30,000 miles in my Omni. Had any body came with a solid (hint) replacement option?
I'm referring to the cable adjuster clip and positioner adjuster
I'm on my second sets of plastics in 30,000 miles in my Omni. Had any body came with a solid (hint) replacement option?
I'm referring to the cable adjuster clip and positioner adjuster
Are you implying that plastic parts don't hold up in 110 F temps day after day in AZ?
They are still available I think but a nice solid one would be nice. I am running a DD pressure plate and I've killed one already.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
3D print?
Billet?
Jon J.
1989 Daytona ES 2.4L DOHC
2003 Neon SXT - gone but never forgotten
If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is!
Metal would be ok but its going to create a whole new set of problems when you move the weak link over to the other half to strip out instead ?
1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 400,000 miles. "the science experiment"
1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore ?
If I was going to design it out of metal, I'd put in a bearing for the pedal, and change the system to manually adjustable so I can get rid of the spring, and both blocks.
If the block were locked manually the bellcrank would work fine even if the teeth were stripped out. also the block could be made with no teeth lowering production costs. Don't have a pedal laying around near me but would slots on the sides of the pedal make the pedal too weak. I was thinking something with bolts that thread into the block through the sides of the pedal and pinch the block in place.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
What about an adjusting screw from the bottom of the pedal.
I think the spring does a good job of setting the correct preload on the throwout bearing.
Ian Adams Function>Form 1990 shadow scrapped, too rusty:( 1991 Spirit R/T Scrapped, parts sold:( 1989 Turbo Caravan Daily beater with built-[I]ish [/I]engine slowly evolving into weekend turbo beater.
If someone developed a solid bulletproof drop in replacement that also mimics the factory design of 'set it and forget it' I would be up for 2 right now. This is one of those little things I wonder about every so often that will this be the time I go to hit the clutch pedal and that click,pop and bang will occur.
1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 400,000 miles. "the science experiment"
1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore ?
Jon J.
1989 Daytona ES 2.4L DOHC
2003 Neon SXT - gone but never forgotten
If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is!
Bump this thread! I just sheared teeth off of mine again. I had **just** enough travel where if I put that pedal to the floor hard as I could, I could muscle it into gear at a standstill. Has (or does) anybody make an aftermarket manual adjuster?
I'm going to pull the pedal out and make some measurements and see what I can come up with myself. Fortunately, the cable end looks perfectly round, so hopefully I can machine a suitable pocket just using a ball end mill.
Jon J.
1989 Daytona ES 2.4L DOHC
2003 Neon SXT - gone but never forgotten
If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is!
What pressure plate is destroying your adjusters? Most of the 2.2/2.5 stuff is modified to require less cable tension due to poor crankshaft thrust bearing function.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
It's a TU yellow plate, which has a modified fulcrum point to minimize cable tension! I really don't think it's my pressure plate that's destroying it. I think there might be something worn on the black upper piece of the adjuster, which I can no longer find. Plus, even though we can still buy new replacements for the white sliding piece, who knows how old they are. I haven't pulled the pedal assembly completely out yet, but I'm wondering if I can come up with something that leaves the black cam-shaped part in place, but doesn't use the teeth for anything.
The one that just got destroyed was installed in 2015. I suppose I can just keep replacing it, but it would be cool to come up with a manual adjuster not just for long-term reliability, but also for setting the pedal position to taste.
Jon J.
1989 Daytona ES 2.4L DOHC
2003 Neon SXT - gone but never forgotten
If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is!
Well, now that Covid is finally out of my f*ing house, I took a first crack at a manual adjustment setup. I need a longer bolt for the adjustment and a slightly shorter bolt for the pinch, but it looks like it will work.
Theory of operation: fine tune the adjustment using the long screw coming through the smaller block, push the pedal a few times to set everything in place, then finally tighten up the pinch bolt to lock it all in. The large block slips underneath exactly where the white teeth block typically goes. This allows the black "quadrant" to remain in place, regardless of whether the teeth are good or not (mine are chewed to hell). The teeth simply mate with a flat surface now. I used a little battery clip to provide some retention for the ball end on the cable.
As far as I can tell, all of this can be installed without removing the pedal from the car. No modifications to any existing parts are required. It's entirely possible that the large block with the pinch bolt is all that's needed, but why not indulge in a little overengineering .
Edit: fix pictures
Last edited by jonnymopar; 08-11-2023 at 11:06 AM.
Jon J.
1989 Daytona ES 2.4L DOHC
2003 Neon SXT - gone but never forgotten
If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is!
nice! i like it. you going to be making and selling these?
Brian
Originally Posted by turbovanman
That's a pretty slick setup !
I like it
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