Can someone explain the parts required to delete the load sensing prop valve from a Rampage? I can't tell if the valve is seized up or not, and would rather delete it and run my Baer valve in its place. I know the MC should be replaced and new lines run, I'm ready for that.
Nick G. 1984 Dodge Rampage
I don't have an answer but am interested in any info on this as I plan to turf the load sensing valve on my Rampage as well. However the point I'm at in this resto, I'm seriously considering junking most of the factory stuff and installing Willwood pedals (with balance bar and convert to hydraulic clutch as well). Gets rid of the booster to free up space in the engine compartment and should also remove the proportioning valve for the front/back bias as well. Clean/simple install but not very cheap.
I like how that sounds also. If you make any progress let me know, I'll be taking notes
Nick G. 1984 Dodge Rampage
All you really need is new hard lines, and I would recommend new hoses to the rear axle. When I restored my Scamp. I had to cut the rear hard lines due to rust issues. I simply went to the local O'Reilly's and bought 2-72" lines, and 2-60" lines along with a pair of couplers and bent my own. You can bend them around to match the original mounting points for the hoses and plumb them direct. I also installed a 24mm master cylinder & minivan rear wheel cylinders in the original drum brakes. I had already upgraded the front to 84 K-car HD vented discs. Never had a lock-up issue, and they work great. Nice hard pedal, and it stops WAY better than original...
I replaced all hard lines & all hoses. Just didn't trust 30 year old parts. Bent my own for all of them... Even the rear axle hard lines..
Like NiCopp coiled brake line?
Nick G. 1984 Dodge Rampage
NiCopp is very easy to flair and bend. I got a few coils on eBay.
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niCu is the only way to go. I take the old line and bend the new one by hand next to it as a pattern. A few zip ties as you move along and you're good to go. It doesn't get easier than that. Nearly perfect replacements in a couple minutes.
No, I didn't want to risk leaking flairs, so I bought the pre-made straight pieces. Then bent them to shape. You can buy them from 8" up 72" long. I found on the Scamp that a 60" & 72" was just about perfect to go from the front brake block to the rear. I bought the PVF coated lines from O'Reilly's. Put a brass union in the middle, and you are good to go. Over 2 years, and never a leak. Plus, with the rear prop valve gone, I have much firmer brakes. Although, that is probably mostly due to the larger master cylinder....Originally Posted by Nemesismachine
I have a brakequip straightener, so it looks like the NiCopp it is (I hate rust). I can still throw on the spring wrap to protect it like stock. Love this site - thanks for all the info, guys.
Nick G. 1984 Dodge Rampage
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