New guy, 93 Plymouth Sundance Duster Street/Strip Project.

[ckeenum]

I have been married to my wife for 12 years and since I have known her, her family has had this car, and I completely underestimated this cars potential up until this past week. I have been looking for a project and jokingly said I would start working on this car since it now lives with us. Jokingly until I started looking into it, then it got serious.

With that said, I am looking to build this to be a streetable car that can get close to the 10's/11's at the strip. I have seen Ondonti's and others post for this objective. I need a bit of a step by step break down. I figure I should start eliminating some weight (back seat, spare tire, a/c, etc.) but what else should I get rid of? Front suspension needs replaced. Any recommended replacements/upgrades?

Parts List:

52mm TB (What does it take to make the 56 or 58mm TB fit?)
Port/Polish Plenum (Who has the best instructions for this?)
Heads (Is it better to port/polish stock heads or buy aftermarket (if possible)?)
Bottom End (Not sure about mileage or even if it is the original motor. Should I replace and if so, Brian Crower or others?)
Forced Induction (What are my options for what I am shooting for?)
EMS (I have seen Megasquirt mentioned, are there other options or is this the best option for the engine?)
Any other parts I have not mentioned or not aware of?
Junkyard specials?

I appreciate any assistance in this new adventure. Welcome to project Cruster Duster!

[tryingbe]

Welcome to the site.

What engine does it have now?
What transmission?
What is your projected budget?


Here are some basic readings that will get you started.
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/
http://minimopar.net/
http://www.turbo-mopartimes.com/ You can search for the user's name and their project threads and see what modifications were done to their cars.

Here's mine.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...glh&highlight=

[ckeenum]

welcome to the site.

What engine does it have now?
What transmission?
What is your projected budget?


Here are some basic readings that will get you started.
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/
http://minimopar.net/
http://www.turbo-mopartimes.com/ you can search for the user's name and their project threads and see what modifications were done to their cars.

Here's mine.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...glh&highlight=

3.0l 6g72

[Reaper1]

I have been married to my wife for 12 years and since I have known her, her family has had this car, and I completely underestimated this cars potential up until this past week. I have been looking for a project and jokingly said I would start working on this car since it now lives with us. Jokingly until I started looking into it, then it got serious.

With that said, I am looking to build this to be a streetable car that can get close to the 10's/11's at the strip. I have seen Ondonti's and others post for this objective. I need a bit of a step by step break down. I figure I should start eliminating some weight (back seat, spare tire, a/c, etc.) but what else should I get rid of? Front suspension needs replaced. Any recommended replacements/upgrades?

Parts List:

52mm TB (What does it take to make the 56 or 58mm TB fit?)
Port/Polish Plenum (Who has the best instructions for this?)
Heads (Is it better to port/polish stock heads or buy aftermarket (if possible)?)
Bottom End (Not sure about mileage or even if it is the original motor. Should I replace and if so, Brian Crower or others?)
Forced Induction (What are my options for what I am shooting for?)
EMS (I have seen Megasquirt mentioned, are there other options or is this the best option for the engine?)
Any other parts I have not mentioned or not aware of?
Junkyard specials?

I appreciate any assistance in this new adventure. Welcome to project Cruster Duster!

I saw your later reply where you are working with the 3.0 V6.

First question, what transmission? That's going to determine where you need to start, honestly. If you have the A604 4-speed auto, then at this moment in time, the best move is to swap it for a 3-speed A670 if you want to stay auto, or time to start searching for the A543 manual 5-speed. It is unique to the 3.0 because of the bellhousing. The internals are the same as the A523 of the same year. There is incremental movement on cracking the A604's computer code so that it can be reprogrammed to be more performance oriented, however it's not ready. The transmission itself is good for the most part...it's the electronics that fail it. The A670 can be upgraded just like the A413.

The 5-speed is a TON of fun and really wakes the car up. They are pretty robust as well and the Neon OBX torque biasing diff (Quaife knock off) can fit and aren't expensive comparatively.

Before we start talking mods to meet your 11-10 second goal, is the car going to be a street car, or are you going "pseudo street"/pure race? Why do I ask? Weight.

The bottom end of the engine is actually pretty strong. Stock parts can handle quite a bit out of the box. One thing that is HIGHLY suggested is that the ring gaps be opened up if you intend to use anything but N/A. However, even with that...once you get to around 300whp, depending on tuning capability, you are going to want to probably start thinking about forged pistons as extra insurance. The rods and rod bolts will be next, but you gotta make much more power to start worrying about that.

Once under forced induction, these engines will pull all the way to redline. Where they actually start dropping off, I don't think that's known on stock cams.

If you are planning forced induction, the rest of the build will follow. Yes, the engine has places it can be improved with porting, etc., however boost makes up for a lot of that.

For engine control...basically what are you comfortable with? One thing that MS seems to not like is the optical pickup under the distributor, but using a 36-1 wheel and cam sensor can solve that issue. It's just nice to be able to use stock equipment when you can.

Check out the 3.0 section of these forums. I've been around the 3.0 for a long time. It has never gotten the support base behind it that the 2.2/2.5 or even the Mitsu DOHC versions have gotten, so you will usually be in the "gotta fab it" department for parts and such.

I know...not much of a help, but you are just starting, so it's best if you can nail down what you are after first.

[ckeenum]

I saw your later reply where you are working with the 3.0 V6.

First question, what transmission? That's going to determine where you need to start, honestly. If you have the A604 4-speed auto, then at this moment in time, the best move is to swap it for a 3-speed A670 if you want to stay auto, or time to start searching for the A543 manual 5-speed. It is unique to the 3.0 because of the bellhousing. The internals are the same as the A523 of the same year. There is incremental movement on cracking the A604's computer code so that it can be reprogrammed to be more performance oriented, however it's not ready. The transmission itself is good for the most part...it's the electronics that fail it. The A670 can be upgraded just like the A413.

The 5-speed is a TON of fun and really wakes the car up. They are pretty robust as well and the Neon OBX torque biasing diff (Quaife knock off) can fit and aren't expensive comparatively.

Before we start talking mods to meet your 11-10 second goal, is the car going to be a street car, or are you going "pseudo street"/pure race? Why do I ask? Weight.

The bottom end of the engine is actually pretty strong. Stock parts can handle quite a bit out of the box. One thing that is HIGHLY suggested is that the ring gaps be opened up if you intend to use anything but N/A. However, even with that...once you get to around 300whp, depending on tuning capability, you are going to want to probably start thinking about forged pistons as extra insurance. The rods and rod bolts will be next, but you gotta make much more power to start worrying about that.

Once under forced induction, these engines will pull all the way to redline. Where they actually start dropping off, I don't think that's known on stock cams.

If you are planning forced induction, the rest of the build will follow. Yes, the engine has places it can be improved with porting, etc., however boost makes up for a lot of that.

For engine control...basically what are you comfortable with? One thing that MS seems to not like is the optical pickup under the distributor, but using a 36-1 wheel and cam sensor can solve that issue. It's just nice to be able to use stock equipment when you can.

Check out the 3.0 section of these forums. I've been around the 3.0 for a long time. It has never gotten the support base behind it that the 2.2/2.5 or even the Mitsu DOHC versions have gotten, so you will usually be in the "gotta fab it" department for parts and such.

I know...not much of a help, but you are just starting, so it's best if you can nail down what you are after first.

I am looking to swap to the A543. I agree, way more fun! I live less than an hour from the closest drag strip and currently do not have a trailer. I would like to be able to drive the car to the track, run, and drive back home. Negating any breakdowns of course. So, streetable, but more performance oriented. I am leaning towards turbo, possibly even TT. I know it is a lot of work but I have nothing but time to figure it out, this isn't a rush build. I planned on getting forged pistons, wasn't sure if the rods would be necessary. I have no problem eliminating weight throughout the car, in fact it was one intention.

[Reaper1]

Well, depending on your threshold for "streetable", the sky's the limit! LOL I've had the opportunity to drive Junkyard...on the highway. Let's put it this way...if you didn't HAVE to drive that thing...you wouldn't! LOUD, hot, stinky, miserable. BUT....because racecar! (It's *better-ish* now...even Ondonti didn't like it that way)

Based on what you've said, a single turbo setup will be simply, effective, and yield the results you are looking for without dropping a mint. Especially with weight reduction. Keep in mind, for the speed you are looking for, a roll bar will be required at a minimum. So, don't forget to factor safety equipment in. Stripping the interior of all the panels and sound deadening truthfully doesn't save a ton of weight, but it sure introduces a TON of noise! That's not to say there aren't "smart" things to take out, but you get to a point of diminishing returns once you get the big, obvious stuff out.