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Thread: Driveline Whine

  1. #21
    turbo addict
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    Re: Driveline Whine

    I guess that was a bad term to use. I meant that it was biased to one side, which seems to be exactly what you are think as well. Sorry about the confusion.

  2. #22
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor tryingbe's Avatar
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    Re: Driveline Whine

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleD View Post
    How many shims did others need to add their diff to get the proper turning torque?
    That's not how it works, you measure the torque value then get the shim need to get it to spec.

    You want 6 inch lb for used bearings and 9-14 inch lb for new bearings.
    If the torque is too high, install thinner shim. If torque is too low, install thicker shim.


    Also, measure the input shaft preload while you have it out. You want it at 5 inch lb.


    Parts numbers for shims for setting preload for both differential and input shaft.
    http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/kn...ld-Parts-Guide
    Last edited by tryingbe; 10-16-2016 at 09:56 PM.

  3. #23
    boostaholic
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    Re: Driveline Whine

    Finally got around to tearing down my transmission completely, so far nothing looks out of place, double checked the output shaft and the bearing has not moved on the shaft after I welded it. Going to tear down the OBX tomorrow and see if there is anything wrong with it tomorrow.

  4. #24
    boostaholic
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    Re: Driveline Whine

    Progress tonight. Dropped the diff into the empty housing, torqued everything to spec. My turning torque is about 12 in/ lb. I spoke with the t3 guru that has probably installed the set up the most of these obxs and he told me to 20-30. So I ordered another set of 10 .005 shims. With 12 it still shines pretty bad. My theory is that I didnt fully seat one side of the bearings when I originally set it up. Then when I took it to the track and really beat on it hard through the corners, the bearings side loaded and fully seated, this caused the preload to go down and to start developing a whine.


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  5. #25
    boostaholic
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    Driveline Whine

    Question for all of you?
    When you are reading the turning torque, how fast are you rotating? Does the value fluctuate, as I am rotating the value goes from 25-40, there are like hard spots in the rotation and then it get easier again, I am wondering if the cause of my problems could be bad bearings? Anyone replaced the bearings and had them fail after a few thousand miles? Wondering if it is normal that the bearings get easier and harder as you rotate them. I am going to try one last ditch effort and clean the rollers and races really good and then check one last time, maybe there has been a build up of junk in one of the rollers.
    -Update-
    Talked to a very reliable TIII source and he had never heard of this, so I called my local driveline shop and he asked me to bring the diff in. Pulled the diff, brought it there on lunch and under closer inspection we discovered hard spots on both bearings as you rotate the outer race against the rollers. So I am having both bearings replaced on the differential.

    Lesson of all of this is- Make sure that either the ring gear is removed or the rest of the transmission gears are out when checking pre-load. When I originally set this up, I set the preload with the rest of the transmission installed and gears meshing, the turning torque value was higher than actual due to all of the gears meshing and adding drag. So I originally didn't have enough preload and then once the bearings broke in, I had even less. The guy at the driveline shop said that you can easily wreck the tapered roller bearings when preload is too low.

    Fingers crossed that once the transmission is reassembled that my whine is all gone now, there is pretty strong concrete evidence that this was the cause of the whine. I am very glad I didn't drive the car long while it was making this noise and cause more carnage
    Last edited by DoubleD; 05-08-2018 at 02:49 PM.

  6. #26
    Super Moderator Turbo Mopar Staff 135sohc's Avatar
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    Re: Driveline Whine

    The manual does say that turning torque must be established with no other gears in mesh. Easy enough to overlook though, good to hear you found the issue before something let loose and cause more damage elsewhere. Two SET-11's are cheap, a transmission made of unobtanium parts not so much.
    1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 355,000 miles. (In the family since new).
    1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore.

  7. #27
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Driveline Whine

    Glad that you figured it out. Proper bearing preload is the key from all that I've read. I set it a little tight based off of several recommendations I've read.

  8. #28
    boostaholic
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    Re: Driveline Whine

    Ring gear is definitely pitted, I am not sure if that was causing the whine, but it seems very plausible.





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  9. #29
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Driveline Whine

    Interesting.. that sucks!
    Regards,
    Miles

    DD '87 Sundance T1, 12PSI, SLH with rear disks
    '87 CSX #432

  10. #30
    boostaholic
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    Re: Driveline Whine

    Built a new to me A523 this spring, swapped over my OBX diff, shift fork pads, and had the intermediate shaft bearing race welded. I replaced both main bearings and re-shimmed the main shaft. Installed the new trans and the whine is completely gone. Much more enjoyable drive with no more whine. I will call this one fixed.

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