Will these trans mods work together

[c2xejk]

I am looking at making a couple mods to the 413 in my son's Daytona. We are looking to get it into the low 13s. I am planning on doing the following mods from the knowledge center.

1) Remove accumulator
2) Turn up the pressure regulator
3) Front band adjustment.

I have wondered if need to do any of the others listed in the knowledge center. Ie. Drill out the area to increase line pressure, remove the check ball, replace shuttle valve spring with tubing.

Thanks
Ed

PS. What size screws are used to block the holes on the accumulator?

[A.J.]

You need to do them All. You can get by for a little while without doing then. You really need to replace the rear band strut with the Sonnax heavy duty one before you turn up the line pressure. And turning up the line pressure only gives you about 3 psi anyways. The real gains are gotten by drilling the valve body. I think stock line pressure is 60 psi. After drilling about a .042" hole it got mine up to 90 psi. When you adjust line pressure you move your shift points. If you raise it, it might not shift into 3rd and you'll hit the rev limiter at the end of the track. You'll have to play with the kick down cable adjustment and/or play with the governor weights to fix that. You also need to tighten up the clutch packs. Stock they are sloppy. You need to add clutches and steels to the direct clutch and get rid of the wavy snap ring.

[lightbulb010]

You don't NEED to do them but I would suggest doing everything you can to reduce the delay of the clutches and bands engaging/disengaging. The delay in engagement causes slippage and therefore heat and wear. The delay in disengagement can cause binding when you make the engagement faster. It's a balance. As already stated, if you change the line pressure you will change the shift points. It is a hassle to get the shift points back to normal if you raise the pressure any significant amount. Changing governor weights isn't exactly a quick and easy job, although it's not all that hard there will most likely be some trial and error involved. There is a lot of improvement to be made without increasing the line pressure though. Try the mods to the VB and if you can/want to drop the trans tighten up the front clutch.

I have been using a different method than the common(and proven) method. Instead of adding an extra clutch and using thinner steels, I add an extra full thickness steel and grind the pressure plate until I get a good clearance. I believe it's better to do it this way because the thicker steels can take more heat than the thinner ones.

The 2nd/3rd gear shift is the hardest one to get right in my experience. It's important that the kickdown band releases quickly so there is no bind. The bind will burn the front clutch over time as well as slow you down. IMO the best thing you can do to help this problem is to shim the kickdown servo solid. I used quarters to do this.

If you want to eliminate the shift point issue entirely it's not hard to make a manual VB and get rid of the governor
altogether.

EDIT: I think I should also warn you about drilling the hole for higher line pressure. A little bit goes a long way. You need an extremely small bit to make the hole. I originally used a 1/32" bit to drill my VB. The pressure was somewhere around 150psi maybe a little less. This is more than plenty for dexron fluid. I would suggest you get a set of very small bits and start with 0.042 like the previous poster suggested. Move up little by little if necessary.

[fixit]

i went with the alto red clutches, and had NAN (makes a lot of high hp torque converts) redo mine for 3200 rpm... and followed
http://www.turbovan.net/Trans.html

[lightbulb010]

i went with the alto red clutches, and had NAN (makes a lot of high hp torque converts) redo mine for 3200 rpm... and followed
http://www.turbovan.net/Trans.html

That site is a great resource. I remember it having even more info originally. I disagree with the clearance suggested for the front clutch though. I got much better results with a tighter clearance. I would say 10 thou to 20 thou is more like it.

Are you talking about the six disc alto clutch module? Where did you get those?

[fixit]

yes, i used a neon 2000-1 because it has the bigger clutch pack and the starter is located in the front..
stage 4 just means it includes the front band, red..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/A413-A470-A6...5SX4A6&vxp=mtr

carl bookbinder was a great help.. since its my first auto.. (still to be raced) .. i have all of his old posts.. not sure if there floating around the deep web( what ever that is) .. also i went with a foward manual valve body
https://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=316621

That site is a great resource. I remember it having even more info originally. I disagree with the clearance suggested for the front clutch though. I got much better results with a tighter clearance. I would say 10 thou to 20 thou is more like it.

Are you talking about the six disc alto clutch module? Where did you get those?

[jefo]

A little off topic, but when I had an auto I got sick of the low and soft part throttle shifts. I moved the trans cable pivot point, as shown in the photo, and set the cable to be fully pulled at WOT. It made the transmission much sportier without changing WOT shifts.

[lightbulb010]

A little off topic, but when I had an auto I got sick of the low and soft part throttle shifts. I moved the trans cable pivot point, as shown in the photo, and set the cable to be fully pulled at WOT. It made the transmission much sportier without changing WOT shifts.

It's possible to lock the kickdown valve in place on any VB using a bolt and a washer. This is essentially what you did. If you lock the valve down on the VB you can eliminate the cable(or in the case of the OP rod) altogether. Doing this will make your part throttle shifts occur at the same RPM they would under WOT if your VB still shifts itself. I made a post on TD about VB mods. I don't know if I should post a link here so I won't. It is a sticky in the transmission section. The post is separated into different sections. Anyone looking to do these mods should do a whole section rather than pick and choose unless you know what you are doing. Certain mods need other mods to compensate. I purposely sectioned the instructions in order to direct someone to get the functionality they want without unnecessary(and possibly irreversible) mods. I would repost the whole thing here but I don't have the pictures available to me at the moment. I have them saved on a hard drive which I don't have access to due to a lack of the proper hardware.