1987 DODGE Shelby Shadow CSX #737

[Windmillracer]

Date: 06th June 2016
Username: Windmillracer
Full Name: Mike Holland
City, State, Zip: Tulsa, Ok. 74135
Contact: windmillracer@yahoo.com
Selling or Wanted Price: $400.00

Description: SOLD SOLD!!!! I am giving up on my 1987 Dodge Shelby Shadow CSX #737. Does not run. Has 2.5 Turbo motor installed. Has extra salvage 2.5 additionally. Have books and manuals also. I either do not fully understand how to upload pictures or I am doing it wrong becauseit says I do not have permission. Sendme an Email and I will send you some.

Will have to send to crusher otherwise. can send pictures if interested.
SOLD SOLD SOLD
For those selling, a photo showing the items you have for sale/trade needs to have a piece of paper with your username and date included in the photo.

The above details are not optional. This is to protect buyers... just put yourself in their shoes.

[contraption22]

Photos please.

[Windmillracer]

Says I do not have permission
as it says send me an Email and I will send you some

I really thought some one would have wanted to save it.

[Windmillracer]

Great I may have a buyer and this car will be saved.

[EaZyE426]

If not, email me pictures and I'll upload them to the thread.

eric at nerf eric . com

[BadAssPerformance]

In for pics

[Windmillracer]

Photos sent

[Windmillracer]

I purchased the car in 1989 from a used car lot. It developed a oil leak around the pan in 1995 and I ran it out of oil. I pulled the motor out to rebuild it and found out that it was a Turbo I motor and not a Turbo II. The crank was bent and several rods were bent. I went to a salvage yard to buy another engine. I found another motor and stuck it in. I later found out that the motor that I purchased was a '91 2.5 motor (forged crank and rods: Turbo II?). Even though the new motor was Exchange, I only gave them the junk parts. I kept the two piece manifold and the valve cover. I had read some where that the 2.5 was a 2.2 with a longer stroke. Not true. It is a completely differently motor. Any way, Drove the car for a few more years (1998) when the timing belt went. Fearing that the valves were bent, I parked it until I could rebuild the motor again.
I have the RR wheel and forgot to take a picture of it. It is off because the tire has a hole in it. Long story, I'll explain later. As I said above, I should still have the two piece manifold. Since it has been sitting outside, some ------- stole the CS badge from the rear deck. The rest of the front bumper and the rear bumper is in the back of the car. There are some other miscellaneous other parts as well.

[EaZyE426]

[EaZyE426]

I had read some where that the 2.5 was a 2.2 with a longer stroke. Not true. It is a completely differently motor.

Not true. 2.5 is almost exactly the same as 2.2, just different pistons, crank, and they added the balance shafts in the oil pan.

[Windmillracer]

Thank you for posting the pictures


Try installing a 2.2 water pump on a 2.5. Also the cam belt is different.

[AngelesRunner]

You really should read the Allpar.com writeup on the 2.2/2.5 engines. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/22.html Up to 86 there was only a 2.2 but there was a regular/ turbo/ and a racing block. This was expensive and a parts/logistics nightmare. So what Ma Mopar did in '86-88 was to build the tall block, basically a 2.2 block but with a higher deck so the pistons won't pop out the top. The 1989 and newer common block is the most durable, but at naturally aspirated (nonturbo) power levels it won't make much difference. Starting in 1989, all 2.2 and 2.5 liter engines,including the Maserati-built 2.2 used in theChrysler TC by Maserati and the longitudinal engine in the Dakota, used the same engine block. Hence, "COMMON BLOCK." You should also read EVERYTHING in minimopar.knizefamily.net/engine.html as it explains all of the turbo parts and changes in great detail.

Your 87 engine was a tall block 2.5 and a 91 2.5 was a common block. Tall block was taller by the increase in the stroke necessary to change a 2.2 into a 2.5. The 2.2 revs better and is more desirable for a turbo car. The rod angle on the 2.5 is too great and a real limit to longevity in the 2.5. You get very early rod knock in these motors. The best drag motor is a 2.2 crank in an 86 to 88 tall block with custom rods and pistons but this (expensive) only gets you into Chevy territory for (rod length)/Stroke ratio.

[AngelesRunner]

The regular head is the same one used with TI and TII engines, just with better valves in TI and TII for the increased heat. These are non-interference engines meaning that if the timing belt breaks you won't damage the valves. For a timing belt replacement you have to be absolutely certain the head bolt holes are scrupulously clean. This means tap out the holes. Regular tap then blow out the debris with compressed air. THEN bottom tap them, meaning your regular tapered tap won't clean the threads at the bottom of the hole so you either buy a bottom tap OR, sacrifice your regular tap once you have used it and turn it into a bottom tap by grinding off 2 or 3 threads from the end with a bench grinder. Now, tap the head bolt holes again and blow out the debris with compressed air and then use compressed brake parts cleaner with a nozzle to spray out the last grease, carbon and debris. Then use Q-Tips and brake parts cleaner to get the last dirt and carbon out and now with no more grease in the hole you can blow out the last debris with compressed air. You have to remove ALL of the previous lubricant used on the head bolts which has long since turned into carbon clogging the threads. DON'T USE OIL on the new headbolts. YES, new headbolts. Use Purolator High Temperature Antisieze (with powdered aluminum to be a sacrificial anode between the block and bolts) and scrub it on the bolts without any excess left in the threads. If you use engine oil you will clog the threads and will be trying to torque the bolts against what has become an air bag in the bolt hole. Your torque value will be incorrect, too low and your head gasket will fail quickly, burning through the sealing ring around a cylinder.

[mopar-tech]

The regular head is the same one used with TI and TII engines, just with better valves in TI and TII for the increased heat.

FYI only the exhaust valve is different, intake valve is cooled by incoming air/fuel charge so not as critical.

[EaZyE426]

Your 87 engine was a tall block 2.5 and a 91 2.5 was a common block. Tall block was taller by the increase in the stroke necessary to change a 2.2 into a 2.5. The 2.2 revs better and is more desirable for a turbo car. The rod angle on the 2.5 is too great and a real limit to longevity in the 2.5. You get very early rod knock in these motors. The best drag motor is a 2.2 crank in an 86 to 88 tall block with custom rods and pistons but this (expensive) only gets you into Chevy territory for (rod length)/Stroke ratio.

I believe his 87 was a 2.2, removing the possibility of it being a tall deck. The differences he noticed in the accessories was due to the differences between the 87 non-common block and 91 common block.

Try installing a 2.2 water pump on a 2.5. Also the cam belt is different.

An 89 and up 2.2 water pump and timing belt will fit just fine on an 89 and up 2.5

[Windmillracer]

Sold sold sold sold sold sold sold