I got some video but my mounting point was vibrating too much. Next time!
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I got some video but my mounting point was vibrating too much. Next time!
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I say there was probably a lot of people *trying* to pass you, but very few that could even keep up, let alone get close.
I'll bet your E36 buddies were PI$$ED
AJ (no More Alan) 84 Rampage RT TIII/568 Quaife 87 GLHS dealer optioned Red 16V Masi/568/Quaife
90 Masi 16V White/Ginger/Black
89 TC Masi 16V Red/Ginger/Black
86 GLHS #110 RoadRace Built 89 CSX-VNT Recaro Car
89 Turbo Mini 'Woody' 85 GLHT 'RedBox'
2014 Explorer DD'r 3.5Twin Turbo Ecoboost AWD and 500HP
My profile page has over 20,000 views, I'm somebody LOL
Car looks good on course!
Somebody could maybe run the video clip through a "deshaker" video filter to salvage it. Unless its total garbage.
MinivanRider
Huh , i didnt know that existed. Is there a specific program?
Going to another event on 12/5. Will try and use my son's go pro.
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Yeah, it picks reference points in frames, then reframes each frame on those points making the desired image "stable".
Virtualdub its deshaker plugin seem to be the most popular free one. I'll give it a shot if you don't want to mess around with it.
MinivanRider
lower that thing down!
Any lower and the front tires touch the fender. Going to increase neg camber and see if we can drop it some.
Back has plenty of room to come down.
But not the front. Am going with some softer springs.
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Going to run car back to alignment shop, they specialize in race cars.
Going to have him make set up more aggressive , more negative camber , see if we can drop it down a little. Enclose are specs from my original series 1 , second is current set up on blue car. Note the red car has more neg camber , different toe etc.
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LOL, my wife's Jeep GC Overland has more camber and caster than that. So do all of my cars actually. I'd give some advice on what to set it too but I can't find anywhere where you mention what problems you are having with it or what you'd like it to do more or less of. But I bet it understeers pretty damn good especially at bumpy places like Sebring. But if it were mine I'd see what I could do about increasing the caster if possible, and then set the the camber at -1.6 at all 4 corners.
One of the issues to remember- its a mid-engine, rear drive car. So you need to be careful as they have the tendency to get tail happy.
But i agree with you. Thats my plan. More neg camber , caster.
I need to get car lower, but as you assumed , it understeer's , except when you induce throttle oversteer. And the car does not like being up on curbing. The bumps on a straight arent too bad. But as stated before going to a softer spring rate also.
Ideally looking for a better in between of under/over steer.
The current alignment was based on the shop owners experience with similar style race and street cars. I dont believe there are any Consulier specs anywhere.
So he's going to play with it this week then off to Pbir on 12/5.
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Yea I'd go even camber all the way around @ -1.6 and see if you can increase the caster at all. Increasing the caster should help with it hitting the curbing and being ok. No one has any info for any turbo-mopar no matter what it is so you have to learn to figure it out yourself. But I'd bet this setting would balance it out based on what you're saying and the specs you're already set at.
Just had the alignment done.
The most interesting thing to me is the change since the alignment was done 3k miles ago( when every suspension part was brand new).
Front toe
Rt side went from 0.05 to 0.1
Lt side went from 0.04 to 0.22.
Rear toe
Rt went from 0.07 to -0.18
Lt went from 0.04 to -0.13.
Today's specs are included.
Front camber was maxed out at -1.3 , to get anymore would involve slotting the upper control arms.
Rear camber was kept at -1.3.
Caster was maxed out already , but he felt the numbers were ok.
The shop specializes in race cars and the owner based these numbers off of his own Porsche Cayman race car, and experience with mid-engine cars.
He tried to minimize front toe , and did not add rear camber in an attempt to minimize oversteer. He dropped car as much as he could.
Going back to track next week. Looking forward to seeing how it feels.
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Much better.
Any way to mod the Suspension arms to gain a little more adjustability? I don't recall what the suspension looks like exactly off the top of my head but if you could shorten the upper arm it'd increase camber gain as the suspension compresses which would allow you to run less at a static load. Also if you could move it rearward any that'd increase the caster which helps too.
Went to track this afternoon, aside from my early exit due to shifter cable issues( see my other post) , car was great.
Best ever. Much less understeer, better grip and nice ability to power oversteer as needed.
Set cold tire presuure at 20 front and 22 rear. It was much better at this lower pressure.
So I dont plan on any further suspension changes till I get some laps in.
Will add some video once i have it together.
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What would you guess was the adjustment that made the most difference? I'm guessing front camber.
Increasing the front camber would give more grip but also the change in rear toe would help the car to rotate better. I'd say they both have a similar gain.
Its hard to say , but i can say with 100% certainty that it feels great. Changing a couple variables at once....
The lower cold air pressure also was much better.
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As I posted prior I had the shifter cable break at the track and the tranny leaking through the fill plug.
Got the shifter cables done , fixed a couple engine oil leaks. Drilled and tapped filler hole , added a proper threaded plug.
Drove down the parking lot and had a terrible gear noise coming from tranny. Very difficult to hear from inside the car due to the super loud exhaust noise. But from outside was like nuts n bolts in a dryer.
----!
My mechanic pulled the tranny( which can be done without dropping engine as some GTP people have asked)
Removed the shifter selector cover and found lots of bearing chunks.
Also the throw out bearing was broken , was still in place, but cracked.
Mike Wah had the tranny rebuilt and it is a modified A555 with some parts from an A568. I always heard these were pretty bullet proof.
So my question is - are there any tools required that are specific to this tranny?
I am thinking I should buy an old Lotus Europa with Lucas wiring , as I may have better luck with hours of driving vs wrenching!!
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