Darn tootin'Originally Posted by going4speed
Darn tootin'
With respects to All,
The 'restrictor' is a simple CORE PLUG... Picture oil galley plugs that need to be removed
& reinstalled after proper block prep on some domestic V/8's.
The sizes & materials available are into the hundreds ( if not thousands).
No need to 'modify' the block/ head --- I am a Puritan TurboMopar Geek ---
I.e, cheap is good !!!
If ye love wealth better than Liberty, The tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of Freedom, go from Us in peace, We ask not your counsel or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget you were Our countrymen. -Samuel Adams.
Actually, it's not. It actually is quite long ) ~1" and looks somewhat like a hollow bullet (the lead part). It tapers at one end. Not a simple core plug though a core plug could work.
I will try the 40 cal next.
So far I haven't been able to find a 40 cal shell casing. Still looking though.
Has anybody out there successfully removed one of these restrictors from a block, and if so, what tool did you use?
EDIT: My friend at NAPA found me a 7/16" steel plug (not brass unfortunately, but .4375" which is the closest I can find), and my step dad is letting me borrow his 40 cal tomorrow. He doesn't have any empty casings so it looks like I'll just go fire off a few rounds tomorrow on BLM land and collect the shells..
Last edited by iTurbo; 03-25-2016 at 04:11 PM.
I have used a long screw threaded into the restrictor and 2 pry bars to pop it out of the block.
Bryan
86 GLHS #161, 2016 Impala
SDAC National Member, SDAC Buckeye Chapter Member
A man has got to know his limitations.....
Thanks! I will give that a try. Unfortunately the only block I have lying around is an '89 2.5L TI, and I plan to build that soon too..
The closest thing I've found yet is here:
http://freezeplugfactory.com/expansion-plug-size-chart/
It's listed as part #104, it's 13/32"; 10.32 mm. That equates to a .406" plug. It's also brass which seems ideal.
could you not make one out of a piece of round bar stock with a hole drilled through the center ?
it could be made long enough to be stable once hammered into the passage
I've never had to use round bar stock for anything as far as the limited amount of fabrication work that I've had to do in the past (forgive me).
Would it be available in 13/32, 11mm, or something close to just over .400"?
If it were available in a diameter close to that, but only available in steel, it would be harder to work with (for me). I like the idea of using brass so that I could use a slightly oversize piece (like the brass core plug listed above) and use emery cloth to carefully sand down the outside diameter for a proper press-fit. Steel would be more difficult. This is why I'm seriously looking into a bullet casing (like the 40 cal) which seems to have worked for others in the past.
The passage is quite long, probably 3-4". The OEM piece was probably 1"-1.25" long. I will look into this option since I'm stuck finding a solution to this so I can finally bolt the cylinder head on!
If anybody has one of these lying around or in the Mopar bag I'd love to buy one. I'd love it even more to find a DIY solution because I have lots of engines to build. Some of the blocks I have just don't have one at all. I do NOT want a repeat of spinning rod bearings and chipped main bearings!
I could have mailed you some by now.PM me your address if you want.
I got the 40 cal shell casing to work tonight! After a little work it fits perfectly.
Basically I used a 1/16" pin punch to get the primer out, the skewered the shell through the primer hole with the pin punch and held it very lightly against the bench grinder to take down the outside diameter of the lower half of the shell (the side with the primer). This spun the shell casing very quickly like a lathe of sorts, and I was able to get the outside diameter ground down and still maintain roundness. The first time I tried, the shell casing broke in two when the brass got too thin about 1/2 way up the shell. To avoid this, I only ground the lower half of the shell (the primer end) just enough to get it started into the oiling hole in the block. I then ground two notches 1/2 way down the shell casing from the bullet end with a Dremel and cut-off wheel. This made it so I didn't have to grind the brass too thin (causing breakage) and also let the shell press in tight (by closing the notches together as it went in) I drilled out the primer firing hole to .125" After some wire wheeling and cleanup, I used a hammer and a very small deep socket to pound it just below the deck.
It took about 15 minutes to make, with the majority of that just carefully grinding and wire wheeling it clean for a good tight fit.
Big question on this subject...I've heard that the plug was a hit or miss on the motors. My 88 CSX-T didn't have one when we tore it down, so how important are these really? We just did an inframe on the motor and put everything together, but now this subject has got me wondering. Is it different if you use a roller versus a slider? Is it for racing application or general driving?
They were put in at the factory. The orifice size varied over the years. I believe the slider cam motors had the larger orifices. According to Chrysler, it is needed. It prevents flooding the head with oil, and maintains priority oiling to the mains & rod bearings.
This mirrors my somewhat anecdotal experience.
I've had two engines so far that I've found did not have the restrictor. One was an original 2.2L TI engine out of an '85 Shelby Charger, the other is a 2.2L TII engine that originally came from Mopar Performance R&D (I bought it from Dave Grove back in '99). This is the one I'm working on now.
The TII ran great for a long time, but I finally spun a rod bearing racing it. I didn't have any sort of oiling issues or oil out the PCV system or anything like that. After teardown, I found a couple of rod bearings that came out in many pieces and main bearings chipped (#5 especially). For that reason, (and what 83scamp described), I would not build another 2.2/2.5 without one. The '87 FSM clearly shows the restrictor in place in a technical diagram of the engine's oiling system. Hopefully having it in place will prevent future rod/main bearing premature failures.
I think the simplest explanation is you don't need it for low rpm operation, but at sustained high rpm it keeps the engine from pumping all the oil into the head and starving the pickup.
So the way most people drive, they may never blow an engine because of it, but anyone who does sustained high rpms needs it and really everyone 'should' have it.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
According to one of my factory service manuals (either '88 or '91, can't remember right now), they were only put into the 2.5 engines, and NOT the 2.2 engines.
Either way, I've got them in both the Daytona (2.5) and the Charger (2.2).
my omni 1986 has it.
Chrysler has been using a 0.125 inch oil restrictor in the 2.2, 2.5, 2.0, and 2.4 blocks from 1986 onward and the 1996+ 3.3 and 3.8 blocks, as mentioned in the FSM and in the parts manual.
1985 and before blocks used a different size oil restrictor.
Yeah that is what the FSM will tell you, but if you bought any oil restrictors from Mopar and measured them, you would find most of all the current ones were around .140" or larger. The last six or so I've bought were all well over .125", closer to .150 than .125.
Just measured a restrictor from a virgin 89 2.2 TII motor I pulled apart. #27 drill fits (.144") & #26 (.147") does not. This is typical and not out of the ordinary.
Todd
Now i'm left to wonder if my early 3.8 is going to oil starve if i stay at high rpm long enough.
Ah well, it won't happen if i never drive it.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
I think Cindy has them. I found some oil plugs at oReillys drilled a hole and hammered it in.
I had a Lancer with oil pressure problems After it warmed up it couldn't hold oil pressure. As the RPMs went up the oil pressure went down.
I had short block built and was in process of installing it. Pulled the head and saw it was missing the restrictor. I rolled the dice added the restrictor and reinstalled the head. No more oil pressure problem.
In my review of the problem the I found on other motor types, is that aftermarket pumps evacuate the oil from the pan quicker. So on a stock pump you may get by with no restrictor. If you have a high volume pump you may end up sucking the pan dry.
2022 Viper runs 9s
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