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Thread: Don't box your L body subframe, here's why.

  1. #41
    turbo addict
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    Re: Don't box your L body subframe, here's why.

    What size front bar did you use?
    Great stuff for great cars! Poly engine mounts and bushings at: http://www.polybushings.com

  2. #42
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    Re: Don't box your L body subframe, here's why.

    Great topic/thread.
    This issue is largely due to where the 'box' plate ended.
    As many have said, the rear suspension is meant to flex but with the stock system this occurs across the entire rear trailing arm beam.
    When a 'box' plate is added in this manner, beams ability to flex is obviously minimized but the majority of the flex/stress now occurs at welded stamped
    steel plates rather than being transferred to the trailing arm.
    An improved method is to have the 'box' plate span the entire distance and up to each trailing bar bracket (removing the bracket and welding it back on top of the plate is even better).
    Also consider using rosebudding to heat a larger area around the area being welded.
    This improves weld flow and penetration along with minimizing localized welding stresses.


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  3. #43
    turbo addict
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    Re: Don't box your L body subframe, here's why.

    OR, just buy the correct rear anti-sway bar!
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    Great stuff for great cars! Poly engine mounts and bushings at: http://www.polybushings.com

  4. #44
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    Re: Don't box your L body subframe, here's why.

    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny View Post
    OR, just buy the correct rear anti-sway bar!
    Agreed..
    There are many ways to address this.
    The key point being - avoid having the stamp steel components be the point of connection/stress - it should be extended to the trailing arm.
    Your sway bar assembly looks great and easy to install as a bolt on kit.

    Cheers !

  5. #45
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor supercrackerbox's Avatar
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    Re: Don't box your L body subframe, here's why.

    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny View Post
    OR leave it on and see if you like it that way first. You can always take the stock one off if you think the over steer is too much.
    Except then I'd have to have the rear end re-powdered.

  6. #46
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    Re: Don't box your L body subframe, here's why.

    Quote Originally Posted by supercrackerbox View Post
    Would you care to elaborate?
    I did in post #2 and later.

  7. #47
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor mopar-tech's Avatar
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    Re: Don't box your L body subframe, here's why.

    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny View Post
    What size front bar did you use?
    87 Daytona Shelby


    It is time, buckle up.

  8. #48
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor supercrackerbox's Avatar
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    Re: Don't box your L body subframe, here's why.

    Quote Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2 View Post
    I did in post #2 and later.
    Sorry, I get mixed up as to who posted what.

  9. #49
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    Re: Don't box your L body subframe, here's why.

    Quote Originally Posted by supercrackerbox View Post
    Sorry, I get mixed up as to who posted what.

    It's ok, I had to go back and re-read the thread to figure out what I had posted too

  10. #50
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor iTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: Don't box your L body subframe, here's why.

    I had the rear axle semi-boxed in on my old GLH Turbo that my brother owns now. About 8" boxed in on both ends; not the whole channel though. The guy at the welding shop recommended against that.

    I will have to get under there and take a look at it.....Thanks for posting this.

    Car still handles like it's on rails! I keep hearing about how you can drive a Miata at "10 10ths", and that is certainly possible with this car.
    87 Shelby Lancer #127
    91 Dodge Spirit R/T
    08 Dodge Caliber SRT-4
    86 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo

  11. #51
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor GLHS60's Avatar
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    Re: Don't box your L body subframe, here's why.

    Appreciate you sharing your knowledge Ken!!

    I always thought the method you posted would be appropriate.

    Thanks
    Randy

    Quote Originally Posted by 5DIGITS View Post
    Great topic/thread.
    This issue is largely due to where the 'box' plate ended.
    As many have said, the rear suspension is meant to flex but with the stock system this occurs across the entire rear trailing arm beam.
    When a 'box' plate is added in this manner, beams ability to flex is obviously minimized but the majority of the flex/stress now occurs at welded stamped
    steel plates rather than being transferred to the trailing arm.
    An improved method is to have the 'box' plate span the entire distance and up to each trailing bar bracket (removing the bracket and welding it back on top of the plate is even better).
    Also consider using rosebudding to heat a larger area around the area being welded.
    This improves weld flow and penetration along with minimizing localized welding stresses.




    Randy Hicks
    86 GLHS60
    86 GLHS 373 : SOLD, but never forgotten
    89 Turbo Minivan
    83 Turbo Rampage : SOLD
    Edmonton,Alberta,Canada

  12. #52
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor rdnoel86's Avatar
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    Re: Don't box your L body subframe, here's why.

    I know.... bringing a dead thread back to life.....what if you are trying to take as much flex out of the car as possible in a 1/4 mile track only application?? I was thinking of building a custom rear axle assembly that would be lighter and stronger....and reduce chassis twist...but would I be transferring a problem somewhere else??

  13. #53
    turbo addict
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    Re: Don't box your L body subframe, here's why.

    Or make a new thread asking the 10/11 seconds L Body guys how to prepare your L body for drag racing?

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