Glad to see some forward progress on this car Rob. I REALLY enjoyed seeing it at SDAC when Tony sill owned it.
So, made some progress. Body harness is basically done except for a few wires running to the computer and trans. Relocated the SBEC to the pass side to make room for mounting the AWIC on the driver side. Still have to get a few various hold-downs to keep the looms where I want them.
Now all I have left is this!
Lol. Decided to eliminate the stock engine harness and wire directly from the SBEC to the engine. Probably run one sensor at a time and custom fit the wire lengths to where I want them. Same for the relays, not sure exactly where I'll mount them yet. Also will be moving the diagnostic plug to inside the car for more convenient access.
Looks like you are almost there Rob!
Wayne H.
'91 Dodge Spirit ES 2.5L turbo 5spd
'05 PT GT 2.4T HO autostick (RIP)
'89 Plymouth Acclaim 2.5L turbo auto, "Slugmobile" yes, THE Slugmobile!
'89 Dodge Caravan SE 2.5L turbo auto, "Mean Mini" yes, Gus' Mean Mini! (Current best 11.699 @ 114.43 mph! - Oct 15th, 2022 Cecil County Dragway, MD)
MeanMini dragracing videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...URZLB1RxGYF6vw
and other cars, trucks and motorcycles
https://www.youtube.com/user/SlugmobileMeanMini
Close. Bloody hot in the shop now, but I want it done! Been too long without putting some hurt on some V8's
Made some more headway. Figured out what wires are going where, mounted relays and map sensor, semi-organized what I have so far. Waiting on some wiring supplies now, also want to get a maxi fuse block to replace the fusible links with and a new power junction to connect the cable from the rear mount battery to.
Rob, have you considered doing one big plug for the engine harness like DJ did with his Shadow? I am attempting that with my Omni project that I never work on.
Kinda, but I decided I'd rather have no plug at all between the SBEC and the sensors as much as possible. Shortest wire length possible and no connections in between should allow the most accurate readings. I'll be designing it to be disconnected from the engine easily if necessary, and easy to work on if diagnosing problems down the road. Easy of access for troubleshooting is the main reason I'm not trying to do a wire tuck either. There will be a plug at the driver frame rail to connect to the wires that go inside the car from the computer.
I will be running it down below the radiator and coming up the front engine mount to most of the sensors. Should make for a fairly clean looking install.
I'm looking forward to seeing it completed. Thanks for the information.
Finally rounded up all the pigtails needed. Just gotta wire it all up now. Oh, still need a maxi fuse panel too. And probably order a few striped wire lengths so I can finish it out with factory wire colors as much as possible. My parts harness doesn't have some of what I need
Found some more extra junk harnesses and adjusted routing slightly and got a bit more done. TPS, VSS, cam and crank sensors, injector triggers all wired. 1 wire on the IAT, 1 wire on CTS and 1 wire on the AIS need wire for. Coil pack still left, and oil pressure, MAP, knock and O2 sensor. Relays and main power and ground wires left, also alternator. Sooo tedious, but making progress. This car needs to run again this year!
Got some more wiring done, relay triggers, couple computer power wires, half the O2 wires, MAP sensor wired. Ordered some color-coded wire to finish most of the rest with.
Wire finally showed up, now I can pretty much finish up the wiring except for 1 or 2 colors they didn't have.
Well, I guess this is overdue for an update. Mostly just got more wiring finished up, and got the column reinstalled properly. Finished installing the new Eibachs. Here's a bunch of random pics of the progress.
That first startup is going to be an awesome feeling for sure.
Got enough of the wiring done to try starting it. At first, thought the computer wasn't being powered up (don't have the CEL wire run yet). Got the circuit tester out, ASD is working and triggering properly, but no fuel pump. Tracked that down to a bad connection on a crummy crimp connection where someone had previously replaced the pump connector. Fixed that, eliminated a mouse nest along the way, twisted the starter trigger wires together (waiting on some weatherpak connectors to come in for it and the alternator field wires), got it spinning over. But now, I got fuel at the rail with pressure, but no start still. Annnd that's as far as I got before the key switch decided to pack it in This makes the 3rd time I've had to replace it. Not sure what is causing it or if it's just crappy parts store quality, but it's quite likely to get a push-button start system if it happens again.
For now, I'm gonna finish disassembling the column today to replace the switch again this evening. Then, put a noid light on it to see if I have injector pulse. Hoping a cam or crank sensor didn't go bad sitting around...
Tried to post more pics, but the site is being stupid and not letting me
Thought you were supposed to be taking things easy??
Wayne H.
'91 Dodge Spirit ES 2.5L turbo 5spd
'05 PT GT 2.4T HO autostick (RIP)
'89 Plymouth Acclaim 2.5L turbo auto, "Slugmobile" yes, THE Slugmobile!
'89 Dodge Caravan SE 2.5L turbo auto, "Mean Mini" yes, Gus' Mean Mini! (Current best 11.699 @ 114.43 mph! - Oct 15th, 2022 Cecil County Dragway, MD)
MeanMini dragracing videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...URZLB1RxGYF6vw
and other cars, trucks and motorcycles
https://www.youtube.com/user/SlugmobileMeanMini
Still on a 20lb lifting limit. But I'm allowed to get out and move around, and wiring stuff is light