I wouldn't trust the factory oil gauge until it's verified by using a known good mechanical unit.
The idle shouldn't drop like that. You can attempt to reset the base idle, but I would personally attempt to clean the throttle body first.
I wouldn't trust the factory oil gauge until it's verified by using a known good mechanical unit.
The idle shouldn't drop like that. You can attempt to reset the base idle, but I would personally attempt to clean the throttle body first.
yeah i think I have an old mechanical gauge laying around somewhere. Is there a 3/8" port I can run the line to somewhere?
What is a normal idle for a 2.2 T1 in drive? I feel like this thing needs a tune-up or something. HAven't had the time to mess around with it. It's definitely low on power. I mean, I never had a 4 banger before, but this thing struggles up hills from a stop.
Check the cam and ignition timing. As Cordes said verify with a mechanical gauge and clean the Throttle body and Idle passage before resetting the base idle but can be done after cleaning. My Auto 2.2 was 900 in drive and warm.
Awesome. Thanks dudes. Will do. Never had an overhead cam, so I'm unsure of how to check the cam timing. But, unless someone wants to tell me how, I can figure it out through the FSM I'm sure. Ignition timing will be fine, at least I hope my timing light will work on an 8 cylinder.
Have to take off the ACC belt pulley, you'll need an E10 socket. THey're a pain and easy to strip the heads off of. I go to the j-yard and get some 2.2/2.5 oil pan bolts and swap them out. Then you have to get the upper and lower timing covers off. I usually just junk them as I've never had an issue leaving them off. Just don't go busting through snow banks and you'll be ok. Then you can line up the mark on the crank sprocket and the mark on the edge of the intermediate shaft. If you hold a string between the center line of the bolts holding the sprockets on, crank to intermediate shaft then crank to cam the marks should line up. FSM will show this too. Also take the distributor out and make sure the notches in the top of the oil pump are parallel to the front of the car. Put distributor back in with rotor pointing at #1 spark plug wire.
Timing light you just pull the coolant temp sensor on the t-stat box under the turbo water return line while the car is running, shine timing light down through the window in the trans and adjust the distributor till you read 12 degrees. Plug coolant temp sensor back in and shut car off and restart. You might have to remove the airbox and turbo to intake hose to see the window and timing marks but it's not going to hurt the car to run it that way to set the timing. Just make sure you don't disconnect any vacuum lines (PCV to airbox is ok to disconnect at the airbox).
Weird, why do you have to disconnect the coolant sensor?
Because that puts it in limp mode and reverts to base timing without any ECU compensating. You want it at 12 degrees base timing and then the ECU adjusts from there.
Ditto on the factory gauge being suspect. There should be an open port on the oil distribution block, probably right off of the end of it.
1991 Chrysler Lebaron GTC convertible - a568 - 15psi FWD Stage 3, FMIC, TII Garrett turbo, two of the big ones
Cool. What pressure should I look for on these motors? Thanks
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And while I'm on the subject, what oil weights do most people use?
I think you'll see 60psi or so on a cold start-up. 10psi minimum at hot idle, and 10psi more for every 1K RPM's. I run 10-40 in everything personally.
1991 Chrysler Lebaron GTC convertible - a568 - 15psi FWD Stage 3, FMIC, TII Garrett turbo, two of the big ones
Got rid of the cat today. Seems to have a little more power and i can hear the turbo more as well! Also, set the timing to 12* as you all described. It was around 10*. The idle is still kind of rough. I think I'm gonna do new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Any recommendations for spark plugs? Autolite 65? Thanks!
Champion RN9YC
Autolite AR51's. They're as cold as the RN6 champs, but with their cut back electrode run better than stock Champs.
These cars tend to idle with a little stumble...at east every one I've ever owned does. Absolutely do a good tune-up (BTW, I prefer NGK plugs, but it's like asking what oil brand to run, so...). When you replace the cap/rotor, check the reluctor wheel under the hall effect and make sure it's held tight to the hub as they do tend to get loose over time. Also make sure your vacuum lines are good. That alone can cause all kinds of issues.
Is it bad that some of the vacuum lines are rubber? Should they all be the hard plastic type?
Nylon or Polyurethane lines only. Rubber balloons and collapses under boost and vacuum sending false or delayed readings to the ECU.