My first Turbo Mopar -- 88 Lebaron !!!

[dwh4784]

Thanks dudes !!!! Those look like awesome sites. I have been enjoying checking them out!!!
So just to be clear, more boost PSI = more power? And boost feed positive pressure through all your vacuum lines?? Like I say, totally new to Turbo stuff.
Also if anyone has a power steering pulley for my ZF pump (plastic reservoir) please let me know! I damaging my old one when I was trying to replace the pump. So I need a new pulley!!! Thanks guys. This site looks awesome.

Think about it like a tire. PSI is the same measurement as in a tire but with a turbo it's in the intake manifold, and yes all of your vacuum lines so you have to make sure they are in tip-top shape like mentioned above. So 7psi which is a common factory boost setting means you are forcing air into the cylinders at 7psi compared to a naturally aspirated engine sucking in at 0 vacuum at full throttle. With a few basic mods you are doubling that boost pressure (@ 5-7hp per psi).

[jenkins71]

Thanks for the help guys!!! So awesome.

UPDATE!!! I finally got around to replacing the leaking steering pump. Took her for a spin today. She drives nice. The steering wheel kinda flops around over bumps. And she definitely pulls to the right a little bit. And.... man is she a dog!!! SLOW!!! Hahaha. Maybe I'm just used to my v-8 vehicles. But this thing has no power.

Hmmm what else. Oh yeah. The turn signal lever is kinda floppy in the column. I guess wherever it mounts to the column is loose, or something is broken. We shall see.

Anyone have any idea what size speakers this beautiful baby takes? She has speakers in the front doors and somewhere in the back as well. I want to replace/upgrade them. Seems like that's always the first thing I do to a car that I acquire.......

Also, what is the body style letter for an 88 lebaron? Like, a 71 Charger is a B-body. Thanks guys!!!!

[Gearhead24-7]

If there's a lot of slop in the steering, check the bolts that hold the rack to the K frame, sometimes they tend to work loose.

The door and rear speakers are all 5 1/4". Depending on which stereo you have there could be 2 smaller speakers (3" I think) on the ends of the dash at the base of the windshield. Some of the speakers were self-amplified, so wiring may not be simple. You can get the rear ones out without pulling the back seat, but it can be difficult. Look down from the top with the roof down and you'll see them.

The 87 and up 2 door Lebaron coupe and convertibles are J-bodies.

[jenkins71]

If there's a lot of slop in the steering, check the bolts that hold the rack to the K frame, sometimes they tend to work loose.

The door and rear speakers are all 5 1/4". Depending on which stereo you have there could be 2 smaller speakers (3" I think) on the ends of the dash at the base of the windshield. Some of the speakers were self-amplified, so wiring may not be simple. You can get the rear ones out without pulling the back seat, but it can be difficult. Look down from the top with the roof down and you'll see them.

The 87 and up 2 door Lebaron coupe and convertibles are J-bodies.

Thanks bro. I was reading about the speakers on allpar at this page http://www.allpar.com/stereo/infinity-guide.html and yeah, it seems like some of these speakers had their own amplifiers!! So they can't just be replaced by a new set of kenwoods. But I guess if I just swap out the head unit for an aftermarket one, I'll be fine to use new aftermarket speakers as all the outputs for speakers will be amplified from the aftermarket head unit. Hmmm.

Am I correct in my research, that the front dash panel speakers and the front door panel speakers are spliced together? Like, wired in sequence, shared if you will? (is what I am saying making sense?) Like, the left dash speaker and the left door speaker both are fed from the same two wires.

Thanks. J-body! Cool!

[Gearhead24-7]

Yea, as I remember the tweets in the dash are together with the door speakers. You can use regular speakers with the existing wiring, you just have to pick the right 2 wires out of the harness. I have an Alpine head unit in mine.

Years ago I built a custom trunk enclosure for a pair 12" subs, even with the top down at 70 the thing was like a concert hall.

[jenkins71]

Ok, so I was going about the process of taking the old radio out to put my new Kenwood unit in... and I ended up taking apart the whole console because of some strange "GOO" that was dripping down over everything.

First I noticed it in the cup holder, then I saw it on top of the radio when I pulled it out, then I pulled out the AC controls and saw the go on that unit as well...



AS I looked higher and higher up on the dash, i noticed that it appeared to be coming out of this thing:


Which I noticed after doing some research was the hidden headlamp control unit. The thing is dripping GOO all over the place!!! What the hell?!?!?! Anyone every encountered this?

[cordes]

Very common for the potting compound to do that on the headlight control modules.

[jenkins71]

Hmm, Good to know that it's common. Thanks--I'm still learning my way around these cars.

Now, the hidden headlights do work fine. But the goo is still dripping. What would you all do? I mean it is a MASSIVE amount of goo that has leaked out of this thing!! And it looks like more is dripping out still.

Do I need to replace the module? Again, it works fine.... Maybe clean out the rest of the goo??


THanks!

[cordes]

Hmm, Good to know that it's common. Thanks--I'm still learning my way around these cars.

Now, the hidden headlights do work fine. But the goo is still dripping. What would you all do? I mean it is a MASSIVE amount of goo that has leaked out of this thing!! And it looks like more is dripping out still.

Do I need to replace the module? Again, it works fine.... Maybe clean out the rest of the goo??


THanks!

The potting compound is there to prevent vibration and corrosion of the electronics inside. I've removed it from one module which was dead due to cold solder joints. IMO it's not really necessary, but you may have to remove it and touch up the joints on the relays more often than if it were covered by something. You could always pot over it with something else after cleaning it up.

[Reaper1]

No need to replace the module if it's working fine. The potting compound is some NASTY stuff! It's very difficult to get it off, too. I suggest covering the bottom part of the controller where the hole is with something that is not permeable and can't be attacked chemically. Maybe tin foil or something like that. HVAC aluminum tape would probably work just as well.

If you are reading the suggested sites above, then you probably have already caught this, but you can only add so much boost before you run out of fuel. Remember, you have to match air with fuel to make power. So, the stock components are "good" for right around what the maximum that the computer will allow. You can raise the base fuel pressure a little and gain some headroom to add a bit more boost, but you will eventually hit a wall. I HIGHLY suggest a wideband O2 sensor of some sort to make sure you aren't running too lean.

As for the steering wheel...please go into more detail about it "flopping". There are several things that could cause this. I actually experienced some bolts come loose INSIDE the steering column that caused my steering wheel to literally "flop" around. It was kinda scary. A loose rack can cause this feeling as well, but a notable "clunk" would probably be head. The other thing to consider is that this is a convertible. Although this car was designed from the ground up to be a convertible (unlike the Mustangs and Camaro's of the day that were chopped up hack jobs), it still experiences what is known as "cowl shake". Basically you can feel the flexing of the chassis in relation to your seating position through the steering wheel. My '89 LeBaron exhibited this a bit and my '89 TC (uses the same upper firewall/cowl/windshield as the J-body) has a touch of it as well (not nearly as bad). Now...if you go drive something like an older 600 or 400 convertible...THOSE have some SERIOUS cowl shake!

The turn signal stalk feeling "floppy" is most likely because the base of the plastic stalk is broken. This is very normal. Unfortunately I'm not sure they are available new anywhere.

The speakers in the door should be 5.25". I *think* the rears are 5x7" (Daytona's are), but Crutchfield is calling out 5.25" in the rear. The dash speakers (which are in PARALLEL with the door speakers) are 3.5". If you have the premium Infinity head unit (will have an equalizer and a fader joystick most likely), then the speakers are self amplified. The lower levels of radios don't include the amps on the speakers and will not have the dash speakers installed (thought the wires and plugs should still be there).

BTW, do you have a convertible top boot? If not, I might be able to help you with that as I have a couple that I am never going to use that I'd be willing to sell. We jsut would have to make sure that the ones I have would work on your car as it seems there is at least 2 different types I have come across over the years.

[jenkins71]

Thank you thank you guys for the info!!! I'm loving this site.

Ok Cordes, thanks. I'll just clean the goop up and maybe cover that hole up. Good info!

Reaper-- thanks for your input!

On boost- Cool, good stuff to note. For now, I'm just doing some little things on the LeBaron to make it a comfortable driver. I'll get into suping it up a little later. But this is good knowledge to start filing away in my brain. Like I say, I know I won't be able to let that motor alone!

On Steering "Flop"- While I was taking the console apart, chasing that GOOP, I also took the dash apart so I could get my gauges inside and see about fixing that speedometer/odometer fail. While doing so, I dropped the under-dash plastic and wiggled my steering wheel around. I could flop the wheel around myself, but the visible part of the column where it passes through the firewall didn't move at all. I believe that my problem lies somewhere in the tilt-steering. Like, maybe the u-joint there is busted?? I couldn't get the column to budge at all.. but I was able to flop the wheel up and down. I tried moving the tilt to a different position, but it flops in every position.

Stereo-I'll check on the rear speakers. I'm going to replace all of them. I am replacing my stereo with a new Kenwood unit that will allow Sirius XM, AUX input, CD, USB, Bluetooth, etc. My car does have the Infinity stereo with the joystick. Let me know if anyone wants to buy it.... It has a little wear from fingers.

Boot- I don't have one. Depending on the price, I might be interested. I never considered it before. But that could be a sharp look.

Thanks dudes!

[Reaper1]

On the steering wheel flop:
Most likely some bolts came loose on the inside of the column allowing the whole wheel to do exactly what you are describing. It's not "bad" to fix, but it takes some time and while you are there, I just suggest pulling the entire column (not really that hard) and going through the entire thing. It is a Saginaw unit, very similar to what is used in many, many GM's. In order to get to the bolts I'm talking about, you have to really take the thing apart. So, you need to remove the steering wheel, the entire turn signal assembly, and the pivot pin (requires a special tool). I *had* pictures of this whole thing somewhere, but I don't remember where off the top of my head. Make sure to use Lock-Tite on the bolts when you put them back in and tighten them (if in fact this is the issue).

For the boot, if you can either take a picture of the rear rail that is on the cabin side of the stainless trim on top of the rear hatch by the convertible top, or just see if it's sort of a "C" channel, that would tell me if the boots I have will work if I'm not mistaken. I will take another really good look at them tomorrow. I have one that was basically in brand new condition save for 1 or 2 tiny little areas. I'd like $100+shipping for that one. The other one is more worn: $50+shipping would more than likely take it, but I want to make sure it's worth that first by taking another good look at it. Of course I would provide detailed pictures before the sale. I want whomever to know exactly what they are getting.

[jenkins71]

Thanks man. I'm probably good on the boot for now, but I'll keep that in mind.
I'll take a crack at the steering wheel soon, thanks for that, but first, THIS:

UGGGH OK I feel like an idiot. I was taking the instrument cluster apart, so I could remove the speed and check out if it had broken plastic gears... and I had the clear plastic on the floor, and I got up to go to the bathroom and I stepped RIGHT on the plastic lens and broke it in half.

I don't suppose anyone has one for sale?

[bigbarneycars]

So Jenkins71. What did you find with the gears? You do know you're probably going to buy a whole speedo unit to get that plastic lens Rite? P.M. me and I'll point you in the rite direction for that too, Analog gauges rite? Jer

[jenkins71]

Hey Jer. I found the replacement gears on Ebay for like $25 for the pair. Yup, the gears were missing teeth.
As for the lens, a guy responded to my "wanting to buy" ad on this site. He has some NOS ones for like $30.

[cordes]

Here is a tilt column video I made a while back. It's not the definitive guide, but it'll most likely allow you to stop the wobble.

[jenkins71]

Oh, awesome! Thanks Man!

[GLHNSLHT2]

On the power steering, did you replace the pump with a used unit or were you able to swap pulleys to a new unit??

[jenkins71]

I replaced it with a used unit. Didn't feel like messing with pulling the pulley off at this point, as the used unit doesnt leak or anything. I need a better puller that won't bend the pulley. Still have a new unit waiting just in case.

[jenkins71]

Okay, so I'm finally driving this thang on a daily basis!!!
Couple things. It is super slow. Power seems down. IS it normal for the engine to almost stall out while you are stationary and using the power steering? Like it'll drop down from the 500 idle in D to like 300 and then catch itself.
Also, does this oil pressure look normal for a warm engine while idling in drive?

Or does it seem low?
Thanks!