MPSciLink

[cordes]

Does the DC/DC have a certain direction it needs to go in? I installed it on the top side of the board, and from the photos, I have it backwards pin wise from how you installed it.

I didn't see anything written on the resistor with the tape, so naturally, I just picked a 10K spot to put it in. How important would you say having a greater than 50/50 chance that it's in the right spot would be?

My mounting solution for the bluetooth deal was also a bit different than yours, but I think that should be fine. Over all, I think I did a pretty decent job. The SM stuff was brutal for my unsteady hands to solder, but after the first 3-4 of them I really started to get the hang of it. Solder paste may be in my future though.

[wheming]

Does the DC/DC have a certain direction it needs to go in? I installed it on the top side of the board, and from the photos, I have it backwards pin wise from how you installed it.

I didn't see anything written on the resistor with the tape, so naturally, I just picked a 10K spot to put it in. How important would you say having a greater than 50/50 chance that it's in the right spot would be?

My mounting solution for the bluetooth deal was also a bit different than yours, but I think that should be fine. Over all, I think I did a pretty decent job. The SM stuff was brutal for my unsteady hands to solder, but after the first 3-4 of them I really started to get the hang of it. Solder paste may be in my future though.

The reason the display DC-DC is located on the underside of the board is because it is too tall to fit in the enclosure.

Did the pics help?

[cordes]

Yes, they did. I don't have a problem moving the DC/DC piece, but I'm still wondering if direction matters just out of curiosity. I'm guessing it would.

[wowzer]

make sure you have flashed the arduino with the latest version of mpscilink (which i updated a couple days ago) as well as have installed the most current version of mpscandroid (2.0.0.7).

[wheming]

Yes, they did. I don't have a problem moving the DC/DC piece, but I'm still wondering if direction matters just out of curiosity. I'm guessing it would.

Yes, it needs to be installed like the pictures, with the coil to the outside edge, and the component side to the inside.
It would be ok to have it mounted on the top, but the pins still need to match up the same, in which case the coil would be to the inside and the componet side of the board would face to the outside edge of the mpscilink board.

You can post or email me a pic of what you have, if you'd like, before you change anything.

[wheming]

make sure you have flashed the arduino with the latest version of mpscilink (which i updated a couple days ago) as well as have installed the most current version of mpscandroid (2.0.0.7).

Do you have that new one updated on your google drive and the link in post 1 of MPScandroid?
My installed version in 2.0.0.6

[cordes]

Here are a couple of photos. You can click on them to get a large version.

IMG_2364





IMG_2362

[wheming]

Yes, that display DC-DC is oriented incorrectly.
And, you very likely damaged the bluetooth module by that rework. That is why we changed to the header so we could use them without reworking the pins. They have very fine vias, and they get damaged easily when heated up for removing the pins.

For the DIY customers, you should have a 4pos or 6pos header with long pins. This is what I did when installing.
The pins are flat, not square, so i angle them 90 deg, and then twist them. This helps to stiffen them from the bending motion once installed. A bit of extra solder also helps to stiffen the pins.

Attachment 63271

Attachment 63272

I don't have a very detailed pic of just that, other than zooming in on one of the other pics. But the next bunch I get, I will take a few pics of that specifically.

[cordes]

Thanks for the feedback. I didn't realize that was the intent for those header pins. I'll have to bring home my desoldering iron from school and get the DC/DC piece fixed. To be honest, I would be surprised if the bluetooth deal didn't work because of what I did. I know it looks bad though, as I purposely tried to see how easy it would be to remove the header plastic after touching it a little with my iron. It looked way worse, so I gave up. Are the modules commercially available? I may as well plan for this being the first time my complete lack of skill has broken something for an electronics project.

[wheming]

Thanks for the feedback. I didn't realize that was the intent for those header pins. I'll have to bring home my desoldering iron from school and get the DC/DC piece fixed. To be honest, I would be surprised if the bluetooth deal didn't work because of what I did. I know it looks bad though, as I purposely tried to see how easy it would be to remove the header plastic after touching it a little with my iron. It looked way worse, so I gave up. Are the modules commercially available? I may as well plan for this being the first time my complete lack of skill has broken something for an electronics project.

And I'm sorry there isn't formal instructions for assembly, other than the tips that have been kicked around.

When i looked at your pic, i thought you unsoldered the factory pins on the bluetooth. But if you just soldered from the bottom and clipped the top, then maybe not.

But if it doesn't work, i have a spare or two of the BT here.

The idea is to use like this. Then to replace the module is simply plug-n-play.

[chromguy]

Thanks for the feedback. I didn't realize that was the intent for those header pins. I'll have to bring home my desoldering iron from school and get the DC/DC piece fixed. To be honest, I would be surprised if the bluetooth deal didn't work because of what I did. I know it looks bad though, as I purposely tried to see how easy it would be to remove the header plastic after touching it a little with my iron. It looked way worse, so I gave up. Are the modules commercially available? I may as well plan for this being the first time my complete lack of skill has broken something for an electronics project.

To me, your assembly looks good! When doing rework try to keep the iron temperature low to prevent damage. As Wayne said, the BT modules are very fussy with rework but you may have been successful

[86Shelby]

I think there is some thing I'm missing or did wrong when I hooked mine up tonight. I followed the hookup instructions Wayne posted on YouTube for power, ground, transmit & receive. None of the readout display proper figures; rpm=0, MAP TPS & ECT steady. RET2 & RET4 bounce around randomly. I looked for a setting to choose the ECU for the car but found nothing.

The last think I wanted to do was let the magic smoke out, so I left well enough alone and figured I'd ask the folks who know this stuff way better than I. Any ideas on what I should check or try? Here are a few quick pics from tonight, sorry for the mediocre quality. '91 Spirit R/T with FWDP cal. Everything reads properly on my old OTC scanner.
Attachment 63274Attachment 63275Attachment 63276

[chromguy]

86Shelby,
The attachments are not showing up

[wheming]

I think there is some thing I'm missing or did wrong when I hooked mine up tonight. I followed the hookup instructions Wayne posted on YouTube for power, ground, transmit & receive. None of the readout display proper figures; rpm=0, MAP TPS & ECT steady. RET2 & RET4 bounce around randomly. I looked for a setting to choose the ECU for the car but found nothing.

The last think I wanted to do was let the magic smoke out, so I left well enough alone and figured I'd ask the folks who know this stuff way better than I. Any ideas on what I should check or try? Here are a few quick pics from tonight, sorry for the mediocre quality. '91 Spirit R/T with FWDP cal. Everything reads properly on my old OTC scanner.
Attachment 63274Attachment 63275Attachment 63276

As Miles mentioned, we can't see your pics.
But, you need to perform an update of the mpscilink (arduino) with the latest updated MPTune. Morris has made some changes, and although i think you might have the latest, it is best to be sure.
Also, you are a SBEC, so if you mean the test mpc that was already loaded on your device isn't showing the values correctly, then that is why. The RAM locations are different between SMEC and SBEC.

You will need to create a layout (be sure to select the proper ecu type when setting up) and then have a successful log with mpscandroid before you can do standaline logging with mpscilink. (You need a successful log with mpscandroid so it has the proper .mpc file info.)

Are you on FB Messenger or Google Hangouts?
I am considering creating a FB group for MPSciLink/MPScandroid support.
But for now I've done alot of individualized support with Messenger. And that might provide more timely support.

[wowzer]

also, before you use the mpscilink device you MUST download the LST files from mpscandroid to the device. it's under misc/nextion tasks/. first you should "save lst files to droid" which copies the programs from my ftp site to the phone. then there should show up another button that actually downloads the files from the phone to the device. these programs contain various routines the device needs. it may NOT affect scanning but it does affect reading/flashing.

and in mpscandroid under program settings, make sure you first set your default ecu and bin size. once things are working properly you may want to come back and adjust the logging rates as well as the droid ppi value. adjusting the ppi value allows you to copy the layout files between your pc and phone and keep the same perspective/resolution. for some, designing on the pc and then copying it to the phone is easier.

and as wayne said, you must have a successful logging session using your phone before doing a standalone session. the device stores all the layout settings from the last phone session into eprom so it's available to the device as well as the ecu type that is to be logged.

the device is updated/flashed using mptune. the phone should update to the latest version automatically (i.e. it will prompt you to install a new update hopefully!!).

[86Shelby]

That helps out a bunch, points out pieces of the puzzle I didn't know I needed! Thank you. It gives me peace of mind that the setup isn't complete rather than the unit being bad. I knew the flashing & such was more in depth. I misunderstood where the selection of LM/SMEC/SBEC and readouts were located.

I'm definitely interested in a FB group for support.

[wheming]

That helps out a bunch, points out pieces of the puzzle I didn't know I needed! Thank you. It gives me peace of mind that the setup isn't complete rather than the unit being bad. I knew the flashing & such was more in depth. I misunderstood where the selection of LM/SMEC/SBEC and readouts were located.

I'm definitely interested in a FB group for support.

To be clear (since you are listed as SBEC), the device will need a hardware patch to flash flashable SBEC's. So currently you can't do it yet. The device is ready for that, but we need some circuit protection for the bootstrap to not damage the board.
You can flash the flashable SBEC using your existing means, with MPTune and the FTDI cable.

[crusty shadow]

Got my kit yesterday, getting ready to assemble it.

Good lookin board, wish more people did red or colors besides green.

[chromguy]

Got my kit yesterday, getting ready to assemble it.

Good lookin board, wish more people did red or colors besides green.

I agree, personally I like the RED ones!

[wheming]

I agree, personally I like the RED ones!

Surprised you didn't special order a Canadian flag silk screen onto your board...

That said, the red one is my personal favourite also. But I do like the blue since all the modules were blue PCB.