89 Lancer Shelby; Truly Strange Event

[cordes]

Thanks, Cordes! If I do not have it there, what next?

I'm pretty darn sure it's energized right off of the ignition switch. I'd have to look at a diagram to determine which fusible link it comes off of to get to the switch.

[ShadowFromHell]

The tensioner is supposed to be down though. If it was up the factory belt tension tool wouldn't work.

Learn something new every day. Ive been putting them up for years... since it fixed my OB tooth skipping issue. But I don't use a tool, I do it by hand.

[Force Fed Mopar]

I always roll my tensioner up also as it slightly shortens that run of the belt. Never had an issue yet.

[mopar-tech]

I always roll my tensioner up also as it slightly shortens that run of the belt. Never had an issue yet.

I have in the past run across a number of untouched motors that had the tensioner in the up position.

[harley04]

When Chrysler built the motors they have the belt tensioned when the engine is upside down, that is why you find them in the up position.

[GLHS444]

Just in case my experience from an 86 GTS's digital dash light show is your problem as well, I throw in my 2 cents to add to the confusion lol

Several years back, I had a 86 GTS Baron with the digi dash go through something similar as you are describing. I don't recall if it caused drivability issues or not (it happened quite a number of years ago), but I do remember it caused enough trouble to sideline the car. As it turned out, I had a nasty AC voltage ripple on the 12Vdc line (about 8V AC I think). After alot of troubleshooting, I discovered the positive 12Vdc lead from the battery to the fusable link main connector (the one right at the battery clamp) was loose inside the lead clamp assembly.
I removed the + clamp, trimmed back the leads a bit and placed an aftermarket clamp / connector unit on the two positive leads from the battery. the AC ripple disappeared as did my digi dash gremlins.

I'm not stating this is your issue, but its simple enough to check. Mind you, I did use a positive lead inside the dash area and a DVM on AC voltage to obtain my reading. As I recall, every 12V lead in the passenger compartment had that ripple until that connection was repaired.

[83scamp]

You need to check for 12v off of the J2(?) wire at the ASD relay. It's the larger blue wire that is on that relay. It also runs to the diagnostic module connector if that helps you identify it.

This was the main issue with my Daytona when I bought it. The hillbillies who owned it before me had somehow blown the white fuseable link for the main power coming to the ASD relay. The relay would click and pull in when the ignition was turned on, but when I back-probed the connector, I wasn't getting any power to the ASD relay... Sure enough, the fuseable link was just a stretchy rubber band when I tugged on it. I cut it out, and replaced it with a regular ATC fuseholder & fuse, and it cured it.

[hewhobarksatdogs]

Hi Cordes, I have 12v at the blue wire. Does that mean the ASD relay needs to be replaced?

[cordes]

I would check the relay first to ensure that it's functional. You should be able to see the Z1 circuit energize while you're trying to start the car if it's good. You can check the relay by putting 12 and ground to the 86 and 85 terminals respectively. You should hear and feel a pretty distinctive click.

[hewhobarksatdogs]

I would check the relay first to ensure that it's functional. You should be able to see the Z1 circuit energize while you're trying to start the car if it's good. You can check the relay by putting 12 and ground to the 86 and 85 terminals respectively. You should hear and feel a pretty distinctive click.

Hi Cordes, the wiring diagram I am working from (Haynes Repair Manual) doesn't do a good job of identifying components, wire colors, etc. Is there a manual available with better artwork, more detail specific to turbo cars? I am particularly interested in the workings of the power module. That shows as a bunch of wires going in, a bunch of wires going out. I can work with what I have now but I think I need to get a shop manual. Do you have any recommendations? HWBAT

[hewhobarksatdogs]

83Scamp, thanks! Interesting, So where is the fuseable link located? How is it marked?

[cordes]

Hi Cordes, the wiring diagram I am working from (Haynes Repair Manual) doesn't do a good job of identifying components, wire colors, etc. Is there a manual available with better artwork, more detail specific to turbo cars? I am particularly interested in the workings of the power module. That shows as a bunch of wires going in, a bunch of wires going out. I can work with what I have now but I think I need to get a shop manual. Do you have any recommendations? HWBAT

The factory service manuals are great for this.

[83scamp]

83Scamp, thanks! Interesting, So where is the fuseable link located? How is it marked?

Not 100% sure on the Lancer, but on my Daytona, it was near the driver's side strut tower, in the larger wiring harness Should be about the same place on your Lancer. There are several fuseable links right there. The main power wire fuseable link is white. You'll know it's bad if it stretches like a rubber band.

As Cordes said, get yourself a set of FSM's. They are usually available pretty cheap on ebay. That was the first thing I bought after buying my Daytona. They are absolutely invaluable...

[cordes]

Here are the fusible links for an 87 car. It should be nearly the same, if not exact compared to your 89.




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ETA: The images look broken to me, but when I right click and open in new tab they're fine. Also, the colors on the fuse links can be so faded and degraded that the colors don't always match 100% the way they would have in the 80s. Make sure you take your time and identify the correct one.

[hewhobarksatdogs]

Fuseable links all look good. Thanks!

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Thanks, Cordes. Just ordered a set from eBay. I should have them by next Friday.

[hewhobarksatdogs]

Hi Cordes. Got my official shop manuals, there is an entire volume devoted to the wiring layout of the 89 FWD cars! But you already knew that, I'm sure. Found out straight off that I was looking at the wrong relay : / but the good news is that I disconnected the "real" ASD relay, applied power to the pins you specified, and it clicks merrily away. So it's good. I could go through the schematics and try to sort this out now but if you or one of the other guys could point me to a next step that would probably save a lot of time. So, to summarize, I am not getting 12v to the coil, the fuseable links are good, and the ASD relay is functioning properly. The original failure was intermittent and then complete, i.e. straight to deadsville. Just to know, this car was sitting under a carport in Las Vegas for years before I bought it. It had 73K original miles, and now has less than 90K. There is no rust or corrosion anywhere on the car so all of the wiring harnesses and attached components are in very good shape, i.e. no salt or dirt in there to screw things up. Since the failure was intermittent before being total it is most likely not a fuse. Any new ideas on this? What should I check next?

[cordes]

Have you checked the HEP? If it's bad you won't get spark or fuel. To check if it's dead as a doornail, disconnect the battery to reset the codes. Reconnect the battery, then crank the motor. If the computer has never seen a HEP signal then you'll get a code 11 to indicate that. The trouble with this test is that it doesn't take much of a HEP signal to not generate a code 11. If you have a known good HEP to throw in that's more ideal.

[hewhobarksatdogs]

Have you checked the HEP? If it's bad you won't get spark or fuel. To check if it's dead as a doornail, disconnect the battery to reset the codes. Reconnect the battery, then crank the motor. If the computer has never seen a HEP signal then you'll get a code 11 to indicate that. The trouble with this test is that it doesn't take much of a HEP signal to not generate a code 11. If you have a known good HEP to throw in that's more ideal.

OK, ya got me, what's a HEP?

[mopar-tech]

Hall Effect Pickup

[135sohc]

That plastic thing under the distributor cap that can last for years without a hickup and then leave you dead on shoulder the next day with absolutely zero warning.