Relentless 2016

[mopar-tech]

1fastcsx289 lost a motor by the oil pump gear failing and having a crank triggered setup, it kept running.

Low pressure light or shut down is very easy to setup, I have had a prolight in the GTX since the 80's and the Reliant has had one for some time.

Can't miss when one of these are set off, blinding at night. In the Reliant and GTX both have 20 psi sending units.

it would be nice to be able to have the oil pump driven by a shaft without a right angle gear setup.... or get those parts hardened somehow or create an oil jet on the gears to keep them well lubed.

I had a company that did coatings on the gears, next motor will have done for insurance.

[Aries_Turbo]

Low pressure light or shut down is very easy to setup, I have had a prolight in the GTX since the 80's and the Reliant has had one for some time.

Can't miss when one of these are set off, blinding at night. In the Reliant and GTX both have 20 psi sending units.



I had a company that did coatings on the gears, next motor will have done for insurance.

thats a good idea. i may make myself a shutdown. a few psi lower than my lowest hot oil pressure.... or use a MCU like an arduino to make a table of RPM and minimum oil pressures.... and make a shutdown based on that.

hmmmmm.

thanks

Brian

[ShelGame]

it would be nice to be able to have the oil pump driven by a shaft without a right angle gear setup.... or get those parts hardened somehow or create an oil jet on the gears to keep them well lubed.

Brian

I always thought you could run the oil pump off the balance shaft chain. CB cranks already have the sprocket. Many modern engines have the oil pump on the back end of the balancer assembly. Shouldn't be too hard to make a billet housing for the stock oil pump rotors to do this; mount it to the front 4 balance housing bolts.

Added benefit is the oil pump is hanging down in the oil when the engine is off; should make for faster oil priming on cold start.

[mopar-tech]

I always thought you could run the oil pump off the balance shaft chain.

I have been considering a dry sump system.

Go big.

[Warren Stramer]

Im leery of the oilpump gear failing and it nuking a motor that way.

1fastcsx289 lost a motor by the oil pump gear failing and having a crank triggered setup, it kept running.

i guess either scenario sucks.

it would be nice to be able to have the oil pump driven by a shaft without a right angle gear setup.... or get those parts hardened somehow or create an oil jet on the gears to keep them well lubed.

Brian

I solved my gear wear problem by pressure oiling the gear thru the I shaft, like this.....

[wheming]

I solved my gear wear problem by pressure oiling the gear thru the I shaft, like this.....

So when does this become an issue? At high HP levels, or only at high miles over time?
What size was your drill hole between the gear teeth? And just one?
Thanks for the tip!

[mopar-tech]

So when does this become an issue? At high HP levels, or only at high miles over time?

Personally, the only 8V that I have witnessed this problem has been on my own! Its much more of an issue on the TIII which spins the pump at a higher rate.

Pat has had two cars with the problem, perhaps he can chime in as to SOHC/DOHC.

[wheming]

It sounds like it might be a good idea then regardless.
Warren is 8v, right?
I don't know if this was done on Mini.

[Warren Stramer]

So when does this become an issue? At high HP levels, or only at high miles over time?
What size was your drill hole between the gear teeth? And just one?
Thanks for the tip!

With a wrap-around windage screen and tight fitting crank scraper, my pump gears got very little oil splash at lower rpm's. There are two .028 holes drilled in the gear valleys, 180 deg. apart. The gears drill quite easy with a new sharp bit. Just remember to tap and plug the drill-thru hole in the block on the bottom of the bushing boss.

Oh, and almost forgot, mine's 8V

[wheming]

With a wrap-around windage screen and tight fitting crank scraper, my pump gears got very little oil splash at lower rpm's. There are two .028 holes drilled in the gear valleys, 180 deg. apart. The gears drill quite easy with a new sharp bit. Just remember to tap and plug the drill-thru hole in the block on the bottom of the bushing boss.

Oh, and almost forgot, mine's 8V

So there's probably plenty enough splash with an open pan with no windage tray or crank scraper?Haven't gone to that yet.
Probably some insurance benefit anyway though. Doing this you know what kind of oiling you're getting.

[Warren Stramer]

So there's probably plenty enough splash with an open pan with no windage tray or crank scraper?Haven't gone to that yet.
Probably some insurance benefit anyway though. Doing this you know what kind of oiling you're getting.

They should have had this done from the factory. There is one other modification I do for I shaft oiling, but this is Gary's project thread so I'll shut up.

[mopar-tech]

They should have had this done from the factory. There is one other modification I do for I shaft oiling, but this is Gary's project thread so I'll shut up.

I don't mind the assistance Warren as I have a LOT of catching up to do.

The next two or three weeks are going to be shot between the holidays and the Rampage which is finally getting its new set of slugs. This will make the Mrs. happy but I'm not that keen into digging into another 2.2 just yet and in an l-body no less. But the way forward to the Reliant is through a Rampage so that is a path I must take.

[2.216VTurbo]

^Put the boys on it, they have endless energy

[mopar-tech]

^Put the boys on it, they have endless energy

Oh they will be helping, the more delicate work needs to be handled personally though.

[OmniLuvr]

I want nothing EFI related running off the intermediate shaft

would running the dizzy off the camshaft be out of the question? obviously you wouldn't have all the cool features of stand alone stuff like you want (coil packs, etc), but hell of a lot cheaper and you've already got the tuning figured out...

[mopar-tech]

Out of the question and not accurate enough in my opinion.

Lots of belt harmonics and cam twisting going on not to mention the cam/distributor interface.

300 hp, ok maybe. North of 500 hp? I'll not risk it again.

One of the reasons the Reliant has a 7AL-2 igntion and oversize fuel pump is I wished to avoid having problems in those areas EVER again.

Nuke the sites from orbit so they never cause you heartache again.

Hence the move to crank triggered ignition.

[OmniLuvr]

nice! I just wondered

[thedon809]

At least going to crank trigger system with coilpacks it should reduce stress on oil pump gears by not having to drive a dizzy. Small benefit but its something.

[GLHS60]

Hopefully this isn't too much thread clutter Gary, I'll delete if not appropriate.

I follow the Engine Masters Challenge and find it bizarre/amazing some of the top competitors run crank triggers but still a distributor on engines that didn't even have a distributor to begin with.

Gen 3 Chrysler with two distributors and two coils, Ford DOHC V8's and Chevy LS with crank triggers and adapted distributors!!

Their logic is one large coil is better/more reliable than 8 COP coils, might be something to it as COP coils fail often??

Pure race car stuff, but interesting.

Thanks
Randy

[thedon809]

At least at my dealership, COP failure is not all that often. I might do 2 or 3 a year? Most of the time they get replaced when idiots don't change their plugs and the coils start arcing down the side of the plug and not through the plug.