I've been having problems with my CSX smoking on decel and extended idling. The motor is fresh, so it was looking like maybe it was time for a turbo. But from past experiences I thought maybe a proper crankcase evacuation setup might solve my problem and I am glad I did. No more smoke, the car idles better/smoother and all around seems to be running better. It also leaned out a hair... Maybe it's making a little more power! Prior to this I just had a hose running from the VC nipple to a catch can.

I decided to attack this from two ways. Exhaust evacuation and PCV after talking to Ondonti at the PNW spring meet. The PCV setup is pretty much stock but I am using a all metal PCV valve I found at my local mom and pop parts store. They let me dig through their box of PCV's to find what I wanted. It's a nice piece, made out of machined metal, not stamped like most. I think it's 3/8 on the inlet and is 1/2 on the outlet side. It's a "intermotor" part #V323. They had another one that was of the same brand and construction but leaked when I blew through it. This bad boy was designed for BOOST! Only cost $5.50 too so it's cheaper then the supra unit. I just hooked it up from the factory PCV vac line to the T on my catch can.

I did a lot of google research on how to set it up the exhaust evacuation and the best way to pull the most vac. Instead of looking at what turbo 4 guys were doing I looked to the V8 crowd. They seem to use this setup a lot more then we do. I used a exhaust check valve and tube pulled from a 80s suburban. The valve looks just like the valves used in the exhaust evacuation kits. I cut the end of the tube at a 45 and left it as long as possible so it had more of a chance to cool before the rubber hose was hooked to it. Probably unnecessary but I figured why not. All my reading said the slash cut end should be parallel with the exhaust tubing and be in a half inch. So that's what I did. To make thinks easier and as accurate as possible I "nicked" the short side a half inch back with a skinny wheel so I could hook the nick on the edge of hole I drilled so I didn't have to dink around trying to measure it. Doing that worked really well. Then to set the angle I took the ruler off of a tri square and used it's 45 degree section to make sure it was at a 45. The tube was really thin and a pain to weld. Next time I will just bite the bullet and buy a kit. Then I ran a 5ft section of 5/8 heater hose to the catch can. Heater hose seemed kinda wrong to me, but that's what Mr. Gasket says to use with their kits.

The catch can I made is super budget and originally I was planning on using it just for proof of concept and if it all worked out make a fancy one out of aluminum. But it doesn't look bad at all so I may just leave it. It's construction was super easy and cheap. I have $7 in it. Its made from a 8" section of ABS sewer pipe, 2 2" caps, a 1/2 x 3/4npt tee and a 1/2 x 3/4npt nipple. You could use 1/2npt parts, I only used 3/4 because I already had the tap. I tapped one of the caps and put the tee on that. Then I measured 4" down from the top and drilled and tapped the hole to 3/4npt and installed the nipple. I threaded the nipple in until it bottomed out, so it protruded a 1/2" into the pipe. That was enough to hold the stainless steel scrubber I am using as a baffle in place. To mount it I just zip tied it to the harness. I did not glue the caps on for a few reasons. For one the caps fit tight, it gives me a easy way to drain it, and if something goes wrong it will pop apart instead of pressurerising the motor.

Then I just plumbed it all up. The PCV and exhaust evacuation hook to the tee and the crankcase hooks to the nipple. I plan on adding a port to measure how much vac it's pulling. But so far it's working great and all my turbo cars will get this setup. Even buying everything new this could be done under $50 easy. Sorry I didn't take a ton of pics but if there is something specific you want to see I'll see what I can do. Feel free to ask questions and critique. I'm by no means a expert with this stuff.