Nice job finding the bobble strut! Amazing how close they are to the L body ones and seems it will work! 88 Caravan, other years it would be the same or was it a specific model with a particular trans or engine?
Nice job finding the bobble strut! Amazing how close they are to the L body ones and seems it will work! 88 Caravan, other years it would be the same or was it a specific model with a particular trans or engine?
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
comes in 87 k car too with a 520 so it's at least a couple of models with the std trans
Thanks, good info to know!
[SIZE="3"] [B]Jon Trotter[/B][/SIZE] [B]1985[/B] Dodge Shelby Charger, Currently decommissioned [B]1987[/B] Shelby GLHS, #937 [B]1987[/B] Shelby Lancer, #628 [QUOTE=Reeves;587010]I can be ready. Please send pics of wife. _____DodgeZ add comments here______[/QUOTE]
Got my short throw shifter made today. Pretty easy to do for the 523/568 trans. Mill off backside of pin and pound out. I tapped the bottom of the pin for 1/4-20 threads, cut off a little, made a bolt the right length to match. Then moved 1/2" over and drilled and reamed a .316" hole. I could of probably gone a little more but I'll start here and see how I like it. I also drilled the other shifter arm for a 7/32 roll pin since the stock one was loose.
Last edited by GLHNSLHT2; 07-17-2016 at 01:00 AM.
Welp, tomorrow is the big day, pulling the Shelby into the shop and pulling and installing as much as I can get done. Writing this all down and having you guys comment and support this has really helped keep me on track. Thanks!
Half way there!!!!!
Have to go to the In-Laws now for T-day dinner. Guess I'll get started early tomorrow morning again.
Last edited by GLHNSLHT2; 07-17-2016 at 01:03 AM.
55-60 degrees in the shop after the propane heater runs for a bit, 17-30 outside I want to drive mine in the spring
Ha, I finished up my latest TIII in the shop today. Thankful for the propane heater because it was like 5'F outside.
Today's goal was get the motor in the car.
New Friction surface installed and flywheel mounted.
Spec Stage 4 clutch from FWDP
I could of sworn I had a set of pressure plate bolts but couldn't find them, had to pull apart the stock motor and trans to raid the bolts out of it. Something bounced around in there a bit as you can see on the heads of the bolts. But it does look like the clutch is pretty new so at least I'll have a spare stocker for when the winter beater's goes out if that ever happens.
Motor and trans slid together with 2 fingers. So much easier doing it this way than with one or the other in the car.
I was all stoked about it. Had it up in the air installing all the brackets and shields and swapping clutch arms to the lightweight unit that was on the car originally when I realized I forgot to put in the new throwout bearing!!!!!!!!!! So it had to come apart again. I go to put the TB that came with the clutch on and it won't fit! Everything was spotless. Grabbed the one that is sitting in the box with the Stage 5 clutch and it slides right on, of course it looks different than the one that came with the stage 4. WTF??? Can they not run one TB for every clutch they have? Both are different than the TB that came with the Stage 3 clutch I bought years ago. Thankfully I still have that one as it's majorly beefy. So I kept that one for the stage 5 and threw in the stage 5's TB and put it all back together.
Of course going from a 520 to a 523 you have to grind the trans mount off the 520 to bolt up to the 523 a bit.
I slid the engine under the car and hoisted it up. With the way I had the chain it was rocked to far forward and was a real pain to get lined up on the trans mount. I finally got it though
I hope the turbo fits, that front motor mount has the motor rocked fwd as far as it'll go. Which is good as it'll get it farther away from the kframe/steering rack.
I attached some of the wires back up, and got the 89 dual pivot kmember down, swapped racks, need to swap arms and sway bar tomorrow
How's this for easy starter solenoid access. Unless the turbo doesn't fit I'm really liking the TBI header more and more.
I keep looking at the Koni's and Eibachs that are hanging off the ShelbyZ that's in the air next to this project and am thinking about raiding them for the Shelby Lancer. Then getting Rich Bryants setup fro the ShelbyZ. The previous owner installed Sensa-Sh1ts and there is no way in hell I'm leaving them on there. I have a set of either Gabriels or Monroes (can't remember) I had just put on the New Yorker before it was hit but one always felt too stiff, so I was going to put a new set anyway and just run the stock springs if that was the case. I'm not sure on that.
Last edited by GLHNSLHT2; 07-17-2016 at 01:11 AM.
Nice progress!
Wayne H.
'91 Dodge Spirit ES 2.5L turbo 5spd
'05 PT GT 2.4T HO autostick (RIP)
'89 Plymouth Acclaim 2.5L turbo auto, "Slugmobile" yes, THE Slugmobile!
'89 Dodge Caravan SE 2.5L turbo auto, "Mean Mini" yes, Gus' Mean Mini! (Current best 11.699 @ 114.43 mph! - Oct 15th, 2022 Cecil County Dragway, MD)
MeanMini dragracing videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...URZLB1RxGYF6vw
and other cars, trucks and motorcycles
https://www.youtube.com/user/SlugmobileMeanMini
Thanks Wayne.
I've got the big stuff out of the way. Couple of things I found or forgot about doing so far. Need to grind down the turbo studs on the manifold at work on monday. Also need to find a shop to re-core the T1 radiators I have since I'm going water/air.
nice .. but you're frustrating me all to hell not having a current project / place to work on it
I feel for you forgetting the t-o bearing , lol much like the day I split my log manifold finishing up the head reinstall by threading the vacume take off into the manifold to far
nice simple short throw mod too , but , I have to wonder how that would work in conjunction with an actual short throw shifter like the hurst/neon piece
insanely short throw or way to much effort to shift ?? - not that increased effort would put me off me as my grey t top car had a shifter that was so stiff only I could drive it (bound up cable)
( I found a weak point in the 555 when I snaped off the pin end of the little bolt that held the 3-4 fork to the inner shift rod - little piece got into the ring & pinion cracking the case at the front bearing - I still have the little piece of steel , looks like chewed gum)
and, any plans to mod the shifter for adjustable stops like the hurst one ? - if so we're gonna need pics
( I'm thinking the stops might spare those bolts from breaking)
and thanks for the trans mount mod pic - I've been looking at my 588's mount boss thinking "this looks way different" I know the 523 / 568 mounting needed moding but my trans seems to have an extra bolt hole that's been confuseing me (the mounting boss seems much thicker than a 555's too)
Last edited by Dr. Johny Dodge; 11-28-2015 at 09:40 AM.
Right now I don't plan on getting an aftermarket short throw shifter. I didn't mind how long the throws of the 523 were stock as it shifts so nice I could fling it from gear to gear very quickly anyway. But this was cheap (free) and easy and can be reverted back to stock with ease if I don't like it.
I do plan on building some shift stops. Especially after my daughter already either munched a cable or the shifter itself trying to learn to drive a stick. I haven't seen a hurst one but I'll probably do something like plates under the shifter base to stop the arm. Not sure yet.
I probably need to get some booger bushings too.
hurst shifter - neon
https://www.modernperformance.com/pr...-items-at-once
you might get a pop up saying there's an issue with site certificate - click go to site anyway
No, probably won't look like that. Something much more stock looking and simpler that get's the job done better. Those bolts will have different points on the round bar of the shifter that allows the shifter to stop at different points. I want something that will stop the shifter at the same point each time or can be adjusted individually for each gear.
yeah , a bigger head or nut on the inside end of those bolts would probably give a more uniform stop position considering the radus of the part bumping into them
those bolts are how hurst always did stops , even on my old a-833 shifter but there was a box at the bottom of the shifter handle that gave a wider flat surface for the stops to hit
Nice progress for the day.
Looking forward to see how the clutch does. Need one for my glh,before spring.
Greg