87 Shelby Lancer #369

[GLHNSLHT2]

yeah , a bigger head or nut on the inside end of those bolts would probably give a more uniform stop position considering the radus of the part bumping into them

those bolts are how hurst always did stops , even on my old a-833 shifter but there was a box at the bottom of the shifter handle that gave a wider flat surface for the stops to hit

Looking at it today while installing the 523 shifter I'm gonna make some plates that bolt between the shifter and the shifter base.

Nice progress for the day.
Looking forward to see how the clutch does. Need one for my glh,before spring.
Greg

Thanks, I can't wait to drive it too, but have to drive it to the exhaust shop and have custom exhaust done. Also needs to go to the body shop, this summer I was driving down a road that was one lane each way with cones in the middle and a utility truck was coming the other way and kicked a cone at me. Broke the grill, and foglight, thought that was all. But got under the car this weekend and saw it also dented the lower rad support so need to have that fixed, nothing major but don't want it there. I hope if someone has to drive it that they don't nuke the clutch.

[GLHNSLHT2]

So today the car's kicked my a$$. Started off great.

1st thing was to bust out this awesome tool and get to work on converting the fuel lines over to AN fittings.



You put the circular blade where you want to cut the tubing, snug it up and rotate it and keep snugging until it makes a perfect cut. Feed line done, return still waiting and you can barely tell which has been cut and which hasn't.



After deburring the inside of the tube you slide the nut and ferrel over the tube and adjust it where you want it.




Then just screw the an adapter to the nut and voila easy peasy.




Now the return line is harder to do because they don't have this nut and ferrel adaper for it. So you have to use a tube sleeve and nut and flare the end to 37 degrees.

So slide the nut on and then the tube sleeve. Making sure they're on the right way cause once this is done it's done. Bust out the Summit 37 degree flaring tool.



As you can see there's just a little bit of the tubing sticking out of the tube sleeve. The nut pulls the sleeve against the back of the flare and seals everything. I've also had to modify the part that creates the flare on a lathe as it was to long to have the clamp where it needs to sit and still create the flare. Pic below. The piece on the right is what's been cut short and then turned down. Everything just barely fits.



After it's all said and done it looks like this. Camera wouldn't focus on the fittings grrrrrr.




That part of my day was easy and awesome and I was looking fwd to the rest of it. I wanted to get the shifter cables out and get the new ones and new shifter in. Also figure out what my daughter did to them when she was learning to drive stick last summer. The center armrest/console in a Lancer is beefy enough to lift the car by it I swear. It's held to the car with 8 bolts! 4 of those are 3/8" diameter at least! And though I haven't officially weighed it I bet it's more than 20lbs! There's a huge chunk of steel in the bottom that those 4 big bolts screw threw into a big 2" square piece of steel that's welded to the floor. Why it's so beefy I don't know but it's insane. So after carefully removing that I go to take the grommet out of the floor for the shifter cables. Yea, someone at Ma Mopar thought it would be funny to know someone would struggle with this operation. For some reason the carpet isn't split like it is under the dash over the exhaust tunnel like other TD's I've worked on. So if you want to take the carpet out the WHOLE interior has to come out 1st. LAME. I wasn't going to do that. So I thought I'll run home (2 blocks away) and grab my wife's bad a$$ Milwaukee laminate cutting tool and just cut a slit in the carpet in the center as far back as needed to get this grommet out. I go out to my winter beater "Rusty" (88 canadian Lancer Shelby that has scary rust) and throw it in reverse. It goes in but is snug. I go to shift back to 1st thinking to reset everything and all of a sudden I have no gears. It's a 5spd car. Great. Rusty is jealous that Shelby is in the warm shop getting mods and he's getting nothing but sitting outside in the cold waiting for me. So go back and throw on the insulated coveralls as it's 25 maybe outside but at least sunny, grab a screwdriver and remove the airbox and hoses so I can see the shifter mechanism. The cables aren't the same as the 87 setup, but they're not quite 523 cables either. The end of the front to back moving cable had slid off a stud. I'm not sure how it's supposed to look but I was able to just slide it back over and have gears again. Glad it didn't happen at night and somewhere other than home or my shop. So go grab the knife and come back. I carefully cut the carpet back, cleaned out all the loose change the previous owners left. 90% of all TD rattles has to be lost change under the carpet/ash tray) and found this mess.



Now what you can barely make out in the pic is the clamp over the top of the grommet past the wire that the camera did focus on. Well on top of that clamp someone decided to go crazy with what I think is windshield glue. It is very rubbery and sticky and the knife won't even cut through it. Had to peel that all off to be able to get at the clamp screws. Why someone did this I don't know, but if I ever find out who........well they better hope I don't have a gun.

After cleaning that all off it went in like butter.



Ok, now to get the Kframe in the car and the ES equipped a-arms and end-linked sway bar installed. Got the 5spd 89/90 kmember torn down and under the car,then took the ES arms and sway bar off the 89/90 Auto Kmember and started putting the kmember up in the car. Going slow and getting the shifter cables in the right spot. Now the cables I have are a mix and match of Pbody and Sbody cables as they're the shortest. If you match those cables up to each other one side of one is 1" longer than the other and the same with the other side. I thought I had the 2 shortest cables in my daytona. I didn't. Well using the cables that are an inch shorter in a lancer means that the cable that selects side to side movement won't work! It's too short. So after finding that out, and pouring gas all over the floor when I accidently turned the key to the on position trying to get the steering wheel where I wanted I quit.

And I'll probably be done for a little while as I need parts now, need to have the T1 rad recored, and order booger bushings too. I'd also like a day to rest before going back to work as I'm already sore. I did do what I wanted to do and that was get the motor out and the new one in.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Yay! A buddy came through with a set of Spirit cables for me. So we should be back in the game. I was gonna order booger bushings but saw aluminum ones for sale on Ebay and thought, hey I can make those and save myself some cash. So gonna draw them up tonight and maybe whip out a set tomorrow.

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

Looking at it today while installing the 523 shifter I'm gonna make some plates that bolt between the shifter and the shifter base.


when you get something that works make a tracing of it - I'm probably not the only one that would shoot ya a few bucks for a pattern to copy

[GLHNSLHT2]

when you get something that works make a tracing of it - I'm probably not the only one that would shoot ya a few bucks for a pattern to copy

Well I'll probably draw it up in solid works so it'll be easy to just make a print of it.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Finally was able to run my program today for the shifter bushings. Picked up some E-clips yesterday that the nice man at Fasteners gave me for free.

[ShadowFromHell]

Yay! A buddy came through with a set of Spirit cables for me. So we should be back in the game. I was gonna order booger bushings but saw aluminum ones for sale on Ebay and thought, hey I can make those and save myself some cash. So gonna draw them up tonight and maybe whip out a set tomorrow.

If those are the cables I think they are, they were pretty low mileage. I think the car had a 110k. He ever get that 568 in? I never heard from him after he bought it.

[GLHNSLHT2]

I don't know if they are, they were/are covered in dirt and being in an unheated detached garage one was frozen up. It seems to have freed itself being in my attached garage but I hope they don't freeze up once they're in the car. I was going to research what kind of lube to use on them at at least see if I can lube them up a bit. I wasn't going to say no to free cables either way.


He's got 3 kids and a huge extended family. I'm amazed he finds time to do anything so I don't know if it's in or not. I did help him pull the motor and old trans out.

[GLHS60]

Your frozen cable reminds me of an old Quad I use for plowing my driveway. The accel cable started freezing up and I tried everything I could think of to get it to stop freezing, but nothing worked reliably. It would be O.K. for a while after drying, air blowing, lubing etc but it would always freeze again. I read some quad and snowmobile sites for insight but I already tried all the approved remedies. The only exception was a guy who mentioned he used antifreeze in his but no replies to his single post. I squirted some regular green antifreeze down the cable and its been fine ever after, smooth as butter!! Along with not freezing the antifreeze has nice lube qualities.

Thanks
Randy

[GLHNSLHT2]

That's a damn good idea, wish you had written this last night though. Went to napa, bought a dry graphite lubricant on the recommendation from a friend. Yea, that didn't works so well. Ended up spraying a little PB blaster down it. Loosened it up, should keep it from freezing too. But I really like the antifreeze solution. I'll keep that in mind.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Today went ok, Got the cable lubed up and installed along with the kframe and steering rack. Took some pics of the throw between 3rd and 4th gears. Still a little tight but the trans needs some oil in it so I'll wait till she's up and running fully before I pass judgement on the shifter mods.

3rd gear position.



4th gear position. Didn't move camera



I could still make the throw shorter if I get another shifter arm but we'll see how this works out before revising further.

After that I worked on some bling and polished up the compressor housing some. I'll probably take it off maybe next winter and polish it real good but this will get me by for now.



Installed the modified studs in the manifold. I just love this shot. The look of the runners of the TBI header just look cool to me.



Who says you can't work in the engine bay of a turbo mopar????



With the WG bracket on and all the lines the turbo had to go in from the bottom. Was able to get the turbo onto the bottom 2 studs in the exhaust housings top two holes. This allowed me to see what was keeping it from going all the way up. I didn't take a pic in this state but the damn WG setup is going to have to be redesigned. It can't use the TU "Z bracket" it put's it too far back and hits the heat shield on the firewall. So it'll have to rotate fwd. This means a new WG bracket along with a WG to turbo bracket. I don't think I have a thick enough piece of material to make it one piece but we'll see.

After taking the WG bracket off I was able to get the turbo in the final position. Still have some "logistical" issues to work out now.



So it seems everything in 87 except for the Lbody and the Hbody went to an electric speedo. I have an 88 electric speedo. The car has a 88 engine harness. If I can get the 88 speedo to work in the car I can get rid of the speedo cable and go to a 3 wire SDS which will at least get that out of the way. The shifter cable is in the way too a bit. I'm not sure if I can get a 4" 45 on there. Have to figure out some stuff here. Might have to see if one of those cobra head hose bends fits too?

Oh the joys of custom car work. Least it gets my mind off the BS my kids mother is putting me through.

[GLHNSLHT2]

No outside car work today. Was a indoor lazy day so I just worked on designing version 3 of my WG bracket setup.

[Saturn Five]

Good Thread

[wheming]

Good Thread

I'll raise your "Good Thread" and submit "Great Thread!" Of my own

[GLHS60]

That's a damn good idea, wish you had written this last night though. Went to napa, bought a dry graphite lubricant on the recommendation from a friend. Yea, that didn't works so well. Ended up spraying a little PB blaster down it. Loosened it up, should keep it from freezing too. But I really like the antifreeze solution. I'll keep that in mind.

Sorry about that, I'll try and pay more attention!!

Thanks
Randy

[GLHNSLHT2]

Good Thread

Thank you

I'll raise your "Good Thread" and submit "Great Thread!" Of my own

Thank you VERY much Wayne!

Sorry about that, I'll try and pay more attention!!

Thanks
Randy

That's ok Randy. I'll put it in my book of knowledge for next time.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Got half of Rev 3 done today. The machine didn't like a small helical move and alarmed out before running the program so I couldn't get the 2nd half done.



I want to go down to the shop and try it to see if it works like it should or not but it's raining like cats and dogs right now. Haven't seen it rain this hard or long in a long long time.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Got it all finished up yesterday and today. Test fitted the bracket late Monday night and it's going to work great I think.

[GLHNSLHT2]

My little ray of sunshine in a kinda crappy day today.



No it's not touching, but it's close. Probably less than .100 away. Thankfully my motor isn't going to move with the modified PB front mount and if Johnny get's some made up one of his adjustable turnbuckle Lbody rear strut mount things. If it does start touching the heat shield and making noise can redo the one piece and bring it fwd some more. You can see the hole where the line clamp mounts to hold the oil feed line out of the way.




And a view from the other side.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Wow, long time no post.

Xmas came along and my father in law brought out his old snow boards and my oldest tried it out at the local sledding hill then got to go to a real mountain with my wife and fell in love with it. I ended up spending way too much money getting gear for myself and some stuff for her and season passes for next year so the car has taken somewhat of a back seat. Not sure how much I'll get accomplished with it over the next 5 years due to the kids evil F'ing mother but we'll see.

So I do have a little progress on the car. I bugged Johnny for about 5 months to make up some of the adjustable Lbody dog bones he has advertised on his site. No go so I had to resort to coming up with something that I hope will work.

Male and female 5/8" spherical rod ends.



Inside them are a rubber epoxy of 90 durameter and a sleeve to protect the rubber from the bolt threads. I'm hoping the rubber will be enough to dampen the vibes enough.





I was going to install it today but even though I measured the diameter of the threads on the bolt and made the sleeves and spacers inside diameter big enough numerically to slide over the threads the bolts won't go through. So, monday I'll have to see if I can find a 10mm reamer and ream everything.