What can cause a code 54? Other than a bad HEP

[player1up]

Can anything else cause a 54 engine code other than a bad HEP?
Car runs but idles like crap and has no power.
Just started doing it out of the blue, on the way home from work on Friday.
No check engine light but has code 54 stored.
Upon inspection / troubleshooting, the shutter wheel was loose ( very loose ) enough to damage the pickup plate. I really didn't think it would even run with it as loose as it was. I replaced the dizzy and even have tried 2 different new HEPs.

I have verified cam timing is correct, but I'm not comfortable with the distributor timing verification. Dizzy seems to line up with post 1 on the cap, but the slot in the gear doesn't match the dodge garage page about the slot being flat left to right.
Timing belt is running in the center of the pulleys and was replaced around a year ago

It does feel like my /6 duster did when it broke dizzy drive gear and it jumped a tooth.

If the dizzy drive gear is off by a tooth, how does that happen with a metal drive gear?

[Reaper1]

You sure it didn't skip a tooth on the belt pulley? Honestly, what I would do is set the crank and cam at TDC #1, then turn the I-shaft pulley until you like how the slot is and how the pulley lines up, mark the pulley for next time, put the belt on and tighten it. Then reinstall the dizzy, set the base timing and go on about your day... The I shaft timing on the belt side really means diddly except to get the dizzy in synch with the engine.

Obviously if you suspect a tooth on the metal has been compromised, look into that!

[player1up]

You sure it didn't skip a tooth on the belt pulley? Honestly, what I would do is set the crank and cam at TDC #1, then turn the I-shaft pulley until you like how the slot is and how the pulley lines up, mark the pulley for next time, put the belt on and tighten it. Then reinstall the dizzy, set the base timing and go on about your day... The I shaft timing on the belt side really means diddly except to get the dizzy in synch with the engine.

Obviously if you suspect a tooth on the metal has been compromised, look into that!

Yeah, that's biggest issue I have is if the dist timing is off.

The voices in my head are telling me that I checked it 12 times already and it does line up and I already know the gear is hosed, BUT I've got it all the way down to the timing belt at the moment and was planning clearing the codes and starting from scratch on the timing so I know it's right.... I gotta sinking feeling about this though.

I'll be looking into what's going on with the drive gear for sure. I already have the gasket to pull the pan ( cork has already been installed into the trash can ) to fix the oil pan leak on this old motor.

...oh, and I was so hoping for an easy fix...

[GLHNSLHT2]

wiring from the HEP to the ECU? though that doesn't sound like your problem. My car wouldn't start once, threw a 54, forgot I unplugged the connector behind the battery (who knows if the GTP has the same connector) but plugged it in and it fired right up duh.

[cordes]

I can guarantee that a bad alternator can cause a wicked code 54 that's nearly impossible to diagnose. SDAC 22 was a nightmare turned great memories when I had so much trouble with our white daytona. I'm sure I've got a thread about it or some such if you want to search.

[player1up]

Thanks guys. This just felt like a timing issue to me but I did verify the cam / distributor timing last night and it is correct. If I move the i-shaft one tooth in either direction it makes the dist drive slot way off. I did spin the i-shaft with the timing belt off and it's buttery smooth and has only the slightest bit of play. It should be well within the tolerance to set the timing and I don't suspect it to be a problem going forward ( although I will still look at it when I do the pan gasket )

The wiring in the Consulier is odd for sure ( I've been down that rabbit hole before ), for example, it has 2 sets of bulkhead connectors in the harness, one under the dash and one at the firewall.

Cordes, This might be what I'm looking for since the car still runs with code 54 set...
The alternator on the Consulier is a royal pain to get to...the tensioner bolt is about and inch from the firewall and one of the A/C lines runs right on top of it...

I didn't have enough time to put everything back together last night, but I'll see if I can get it started this evening and see if any codes show up.

I'll report back on the findings as soon as I know something. Even if it's something stupid

On a side note, the top end is quiet now that the shutter wheel isn't eating the HEP lol

[cordes]

In regard to the I shaft orientation; it doesn't need to be lined up for real. It could be as off as you please, but you'll have to take out that misalignment with the dist twisting when you set the ignition timing. If the I shaft jumped a tooth or was off to begin with and you can set the ignition timing without strain on the HEP wiring I wouldn't sweat it.

[player1up]

ok, engine accys are back on and it runs...no more 54 code. Like crap but runs. The new distributor and HEP make it easier to start, but it's SUPER rich
Would be just my luck to have 2 issues at the same time. It just runs so rich I can't verify the timing. If I pull the coolant sensor, it'll idle to about 350rpm and die as soon as the fans kick on.

So, i think this is a "suddenly rich" problem and that the extremely rough idle made the shutter wheel bounce around enough to kill the HEP.
No signs of fuel in the FPR vac line but I'm gonna check the fuel pressure tomorrow ( static was 50ish psi when I checked it a couple of days ago, but I don't remember what it was at idle )
Coolant temp sensor is dead on as well at 1.59v at 110°
TPS closed is .8v, WO is 3.62v
Idle vacuum is a smidge short of 20in hg
Plugs are BLACK sooty ( not wet )

... I'm thiiis close to swapping the injectors back to stock and trying the stock ecu, I think that'll happen right after fuel pressure checks ok

[player1up]

Think I'll start a new thread for the rich problem and mark the intermittent code 54 as fixed.
At this point I believe the intermittent code 54 was caused by the damaged pickup because at this point the only thing I've "done" is replaced the distributor and HEP.

Just so everyone knows what I mean by "damaged", the pickup plate had been impacted so bad that the plate had one mounting ear broken off and when I started checking the rest of the plate, the drivers side sensor tower ( where the wires go into the plate, not the magnet tower ) was cracked and broke off with mild handling ( basically me wiggling the post to see how bad the crack was, it just popped of the pick plate ) That plastic pickup plate was super brittle.

Stay tuned for my next thread " How to make charcoal with spark plugs "