This made 9 psi
This made 9 psi
Pulled all the piping off again...checked the timing...timing is good. Put it all back together and still 10 psi...maybe even a slight bit less. Would a rocker arm falling off cause this? I'm really trying to avoid pulling the head.
I've seen a few engines that tossed rockers (no 2.2/2.5s though) and they would barely run. I actually have a 3.7 liberty that spit a rocker in my bay right now and it won't stay running.
throttle cable?
also check the TPS to make sure its going through its whole range of voltage (or very nearly so)
Throttle cable checked out...figured maybe the wastegate can is jammed....so I played with the ignition timing some, then pluggd in the direct line from vac to wastegate to see if maybe that might unjam something....now even less boost....like 7-8 psi with the line unplugged....5 psi with a direct line.....I'm stumped....been messing with these cars since 2000 and this one has got me beat. I'm thinking the head may have to come off to examine the turbo and related hardware.
The actuator spring doesn't feel soft?
Meaning, when you pull the wastegate actuator rod, it should take some decent force to compress the spring.
Wayne H.
'91 Dodge Spirit ES 2.5L turbo 5spd
'05 PT GT 2.4T HO autostick (RIP)
'89 Plymouth Acclaim 2.5L turbo auto, "Slugmobile" yes, THE Slugmobile!
'89 Dodge Caravan SE 2.5L turbo auto, "Mean Mini" yes, Gus' Mean Mini! (Current best 11.699 @ 114.43 mph! - Oct 15th, 2022 Cecil County Dragway, MD)
MeanMini dragracing videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...URZLB1RxGYF6vw
and other cars, trucks and motorcycles
https://www.youtube.com/user/SlugmobileMeanMini
I would not pull the head or turbo. This is still in the diagnostic realm of absolutely provable without doing that, and until you exhaust all the inductive reasoning then you may actually make your situation worse by pulling the head and turbo and finding nothing wrong, and being unable to troubleshoot further without putting it all back together first.
Boost leak test, make sure intake and exhaust are free flowing (clogged cat?). Does it run fine out of boost?
Can you pull the intake piping off the turbo and look in to see if the intake wheel is fubar or the shaft has play?
Bryan
86 GLHS #161, 2016 Impala
SDAC National Member, SDAC Buckeye Chapter Member
A man has got to know his limitations.....
I told you its a boost leak. The daytona would boost to cutout, then started building boost slowly and only going to 10 psi. When I replaced the IC and piping it started boosting to cutout again. Ill more than likely be working on that POS Sunday if you can get with me I have air now.
Last edited by moparman76_69; 08-08-2015 at 07:21 AM.
Doing a boost leak check is a must, it's the very first thing I would do. Your just wasting your time until you do that. When I swapped my FMIC setup from my NY to my CSX it did EXACTLY what you describing. Everything looked good, heck I had just put all together! Did a boost leak check and while everything looked great it had MASSIVE leak where one couplers met the plumbing.
Because baffles in mufflers can break free, I would disconnect the exhaust for a short drive, just to rule it out.
Have you removed the air filter and tried again? I had an air filter installed too far and the inlet pipe was almost butted up against the inside end of the filter.
And I have to jump on the boost leak bandwagon too.... I made mine with some exhaust pipe the same size as the pipe where my air filter slides on to capped off with a plate welded to one end, a coupler and an air line fitting with a regulator. It took about an hour with a welder handy.
It was on a SRT IC, and the clamp was half off the "hump" and half on. It was on the bottom side, if it was the top I probably would have seen it. But from what I could see it looked like it was on good. Did a boost leak test and it was leaking bad. It doesn't take much of a leak to affect boost.
Another one I ran into years ago was with a buddies SRT4. Car built full boost but felt sluggish. So we did a leak test and every connection had a slight leak, and the car only had 30k on it! We swapped it over to Tbolts and it made a pretty significant increase in power, at the same boost level.
Boost leak checks have kinda became a go to for me when trouble shooting. I really think a guy should do them ever 5k or so.
Boost leak is an easy enough test...