AJ already runs a larger Ford Air dam
AJ already runs a larger Ford Air dam
relocate the heat exchanger down towards the radiator core and then make ducting to scoop air that runs under the bumper to flow over the heat exchanger. see this example under "intercooling" in maximum boost- page 53 of the pdf http://www.fusca.net/wp-content/uplo...imum_boost.pdf they made a box with a scoop that pulls air from under the radiator support- thats exactly what you need. you really do NOT want to cut the metal bumper itself- that will seriously compromise strength of the front end and you'll end up sitting with the engine in your lap if you get into a wreck.
Keep the low speed fan on going down the highway?
I keep forgetting to check this. The van is apart, once I get it back together I'll test it. It does make sense that they could be hurting my air flow since if I turn on my cooling fan at 70 mph (I have MS programmed to turn the fan off above 65 mph) when the AC is on and engine temps are 220* the fan will cool it down to 210*. Since I have the 9 minute timer turning on the low speed fan now, I really don't need to the hood vents anymore.
Yes they have to be like that because of the AWIC heat exchanger and the bumper supports.
My radiator/condenser is pretty well boxed in and where it's not I have foam. You can see better here http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...n-build/page27 how I added aluminum to box it all in so air can't get around it. My AWIC heat exchanger is less than 1/4" away from the condenser.
Thanks but everything is already as close as I can get it. If I use foam it will block fins of what lies behind what I'm ducting.
I already have a 4" air dam off of a Ford Exploder under my lower radiator support. http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...all&highlight=
If I do that air won't flow through it because there is a wall behind it. Ondonti already brought that up making me raise my oil cooler instead of lowering my trans cooler to match the height of my lower oil cooler.
The idea is to keep the fan off at higher speeds.
So I managed to finish the ducting through my bumper today. I'm leaving for the weekend to attend a wedding so i won't have this back together and testing until next week.
Lowered the trans cooler (right).
But then decided to raise both oil and trans coolers up. I also opened up holes in bumper horizontally.
Ducting made from aluminum inside bumper.
Bumper cover on with holes opened up.
Ducting close up.
No that'll probably just impede airflow through the cores. Above 45 fans become a restriction. If ducting is done right you don't need fans above 35mph or so. Look at an F1 car, no fans anywhere.
Let me know when you find a F1 car with an a/c compressor, or driving in 118F weather.
I bet the van won't have a problem if AJ leave the a/c off too. AJ might overheat, but the van certainly won't.
In a stock Volvo car, with a stock Volvo fan, at a 118F degree day with a/c on going down the highway, while the idiot temp gauge on the car says the temp is fine, this is what the actual temperature is.
Is fan on? No idea. Am I worry about it? Not really. Any performance lost? Big time, but working a/c is more important than acceleration at 118F.
Last edited by tryingbe; 06-26-2015 at 08:39 AM.
That's funny right there.
The AC being on and over 110* really puts a load on cooling systems here. My idiot gauge in my '85 2.5 turbo wagon reads in the middle but my mechanical gauge reads 220*. If the AC is off and ambient in 110* +, both the van and the wagon will run about 200*.
A.J. want to help me with my lack-o-duct work
An F1 car generates way more thermal energy than our cars ever dream of and run smaller rads than our T2 rads, even if we're in 118 degree heat with the a/c on. The point was that if the ducting and flow through the coolers is done right then fans are useless and a big restriction above 35MPH or so. If you're on the freeway and kick the fan on and the car cools down you have an airflow problem.
Things like factory shrouds on the sides of the rad and the splash guards in the wheel wells help too. Those things that 75% of the people probably throw away cause they do get in the way when working on the car.
hard to tell in the pics but do you have block off plates under the hoodvents??
I do not have block off plates, they are drip trays that catch water and drain it way from important electronics. If it turns out my hood vents are the problem I don't have a problem with blocking them off or getting a new hood. The reason I had them was to vent the heat when I parked but now I have the fan with a timer up cool it down so they aren't needed.