Older 3-bar cal

[Anonymous_User]

Well, I still haven't replaced my socketed LM. The one I had quit for some reason. New socket is at the post office, I'll pick it up Monday.

So, in the mean time, I picked up an OLD 3-bar calibrated LM. All I know about it:

It has a sticker over the case that says something like: breaking this seal voids warranty. yada yada yada

It is a 3-bar, +40 cal

The chip is soldered directly to the board. (that warning seal didn't scare me )

So, with that tiny bit of information, I found a bit of time today to pop in the +40's, 3-bar MAP, and this LM. Set static at 55 and fired it up. Set Grainger to 12 and gave it a shot. First, there is NO popping during decel. After decel, when I give it a bit of gas, it puffs just a wee bit of black smoke. I backed the fuel pressure off 1/2 turn. Still not popping, but no noticable smoke. Cranked the Grainger up to 15. Seems to run good, but may be a little rich yet, EGT's are low - around 1200.

1.) Is the lack of popping with this old cal a concern or a side effect of an old calibration?

2.) The low EGT's, should I drop fuel pressure or wait unitl tomorrow and see what it does at 18 psi?

[Aries_Turbo]

who did the calibration??

you got at least a scanner to check for knock?

cals can be setup to be real rich at wot and real lean at closed throttle decel. it might just be set up that way. you cant be sure without reading the chip (which would be a pain cause its soldered). does it look like non factory solder where the chip is? I know that some were tinkering with 2-bar cals, 3-bar maps and +40's and having it run ok so unless you are sure that this is a +40 3-bar cal, id be cautious.

Brian

[Anonymous_User]

All the information I have from the person I bought it from:

This is a 87 T2 LM. It supposedly has a very old 3 bar cal from FWD Performance. From the guy I bought it from: "The ND 3-bar cal is the first 3 bar calibration that FWD Performance ever sold. It was written by Neil Emiro of ND Performance. It ran very rich and is at least 5 years old, I would definitely recommend having it reflashed with something recent."

I was hoping that since it had an aftermarket cal in it, that it would have a socketed board, but alas, it does not. After receiving it, I ordered a new socket to solder into one of my spare stock LM's. Using this is only temporary. Once I get the other board soldered, I'll be running a Blueberry.

Hell, I guess I don't even know if it is designed for +40 injectors

Oh well, as long as the O2 and EGT's are good, I should be safe at 15-18.

[MiniMopar]

I have an old ND cal kicking around from well before the FWD-P days. I used it for several years. It worked OK...good enough to get me into the 14s. It was too lean at part throttle (engine knocked at part throttle, high boost), but ran better on race gas. It was probably based off of the Super 60, but it did have O2 feedback. It always flooded at startup if it was cold out.

[Anonymous_User]

Well, I hooked up my O2 guage (been running just EGT with under 14 psi) today. It shows 8 bars at idle and does not jump around. Cruising is 7-8 bars. WOT is 9 bars (might need a new O2 as I don't recall just how long I've had this one kicking around). Decel is 0 bars which explains the lack of popping out the exhaust.

At 16 psi, 9 bars, 1150 EGT. No smoke, but it seems rich. I'm going to back the fuel pressure off one turn. I'm not going to push it any further until I get my other board soldered and the Blueberry loaded.

Car doesn't feel any faster at 16 psi on this setup than at 13 psi stock setup.

At least I have been able to confirm that my +40's are still good as is my 3-bar MAP.

[Aries_Turbo]

sounds ok to me till you get the blueberry.

Man weve come along way over the years.... used to be if the o2 gauge said it was ok, the plugs looked ok and the egts were reasonable and it didnt fall on its face that much throughout the revs lol, it was perfect whether the tune was with cold starts, RRR's or other jerryrigs. now alot of us can do the cals ourselves and we have widebands and the like. pretty cool.

you have all the chip burning stuff to dial in the blueberry to your specific combo?

Brian

[Anonymous_User]

you have all the chip burning stuff to dial in the blueberry to your specific combo?

Yes. I do lack a wide band O2, but I'll survive until I get one!

[Aries_Turbo]

word to the wise... id only buy a wideband that datalogs at the very least, RPM along with the wideband signal. better yet if it does a few 0-5V signals along side and/or some thermocouple inputs. mine does both. www.wbo2.com great stuff and they arent that expensive. especially if you can wield a soldering iron with precision. DIY kit. now still less than 250$ including sensor from www.1stvwparts.com, and using a pc/palm pda for a display/logger if you already have such devices.

Brian

[Anonymous_User]

Stopped by the post office today and picked up my package with the ZIF sockets and EEPROM. Just finished up soldering one ZIF in a LM. One connection didn't go as well as I hoped, but I'll give it a try and hope for the best! Good thing I ordered 2 ZIF's.

Hopefully I'll burn the chip with the blueberry later today and give it a try.

Thanks for the link on the DIY WBO2. Might have to check into that. If it datalogs to my laptop, that would be perfect.

[MiniMopar]

I have that WBO2 kit. It went together in an evening and is surprisingly sophisticated.

[Aries_Turbo]

yeah it datalogs to either itself, a palm pilot, or a PC. it is pretty sweet! I absolutely love mine. it has all that i need datalogging wise and its cheap.

what do you use for a display Russ?

Brian

[MiniMopar]

The LD02. The LA1 wasn't available at the time, but I don't intend to make the WB a perminant install anyway. I got the plug for the bung once everything is dialed-in.

[Aries_Turbo]

ahhh. mine is always in there. I just feed the narrowband out to the ecu.

Brian

[MiniMopar]

Well, I have more than one car to tune, so....