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Thread: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

  1. #1
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    Thumbs up Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    Hello Everyone -

    Its been a long time coming, but I am finally back into the turbo dodge joyride. Some of you may know me as "ZShadow" but since I let the account go without activity it was deleted... So back to square one! Hello Again!

    A little history about the cars:
    1987 Dodge Daytona Pacifica

    Back in 2004 I bought a 1987 Daytona Pacifica from Maine for $500. Not knowing much about TD's, I tried to drive it home with a popped head gasket and a blown clutch. Little did I know how much fun this car would be. All throughout high-school I wrenched on the car day and night, trying to just get it to run correctly.

    With the help of Slasky, Aries_Turbo and Orangetona, I was able to get the Pacifica running... Not well... but at least running

    List of upgrades/fixes to Pacfica:

    • TI to TII conversion.
    • 4Pin O2
    • American Racing Wheels
    • Garrett TII
    • Volvo FMIC
    • Gabriel VST shocks/struts with Suspenstion Techniques Springs
    • Replaced knuckles with the "Modern" bolt in wheel bearings
    • 2.5" exhaust, no cat & no muff
    • 2.5" Swing Valve
    • G-Valve


    Unfortunately I decided to spend A LOT of money and go to college, so I ended up selling the car to Brian. He fixed all of my stupid mistakes and added more goodies to an already awesome Daytona.

    In 2009 I graduated college I moved back to NY in mid 2010. Got a hold of Brian to see if the car was still around, and bought it back . Its been sitting in the garage ever since. About 2 years ago, I got back into wrenching on the car. While I was mulling over different ideas for the Pacifica, I found another Daytona that was too good to pass up.


    1987 T-Top Dodge Daytona Pacifica
    T-Top Current Specs:


    • 87 2.2 Stock Rebuilt Bottom
    • 520 Tranny
    • 782 Ported to match
    • SRT4 FMIC
    • Mostly 2.5" FMIC piping
    • Oldschool super60
    • 2 piece intake mani w/ AFPR
    • 3" exhaust from the swingvalve down
    • T-Tops with bags - THEY DONT LEAK!!!!
    • Crab wheels


    In 2015 I bought the T-Tops, and man this thing is gorgeous! There is zero rust on it, the doors open without having to be the incredible hulk, and the rear hatch struts work! zomg!

    It currently doesnt run, but I think I have it narrowed down to the starter being shot, although its quite difficult to read codes with no dash

    Here is a list of things to be done to the T-Top:

    • Swap in Dashboard
    • Reinstall front seats
    • Swap axles from Pacifica into T-Top
    • Pull 555 from Pacifica
    • Swap 11" Brakes over to T-Top
    • Install Digital Dash
    • Install Gauges
    • Replace starter on T-Top
    • Replace alternator
    • Replace Radiator
    • Replace the garbage stuff with quality silicone couplers
    • Swap Suspension


    There are a couple flaws in the T-Top but with a perfectly good Pacifica sitting there, its just a matter of replacing the bad with good.



    Daytuna's Two Daytonas
    The pile of crap is from the T-Tops, it originally had dents in the fenders and a 90's style front end. Replaced it with the 87 style off the Pacifica. Also swapped over the power bulge hood.



    As you can see the interior is pretty beat. The carpet was stained to hell, the seats worn and torn, plus the dash was literally falling a part. My buddy Derek helping out and unbolting the seats.

    Once we had the interior out we cleaned it, and hit it with a couple coats of rust prevention paint. Better to be safe than sorry.


    The rear plastic panels installed, along with rear carpet.



    Had to make two modifications for the panels to fit. First the top was about 3 inches long due to the T-Tops, second I had to cut a slot for the seatbelts to slide through.

    Since I had never taken out a dashboard, I called my interior guru Joe to come lend a hand.

    Joe in his meditation position

    And its never to late to learn something new....

    I never knew this controlled the headlights.


    And here she be!



    The End Goal
    • Swap in Rebuilt SRT4 Motor
    • 555 Tranny
    • Stage 3 or 4 Clutch
    • Spearco FMIC
    • Custom Cal
    • Weld in half cage (rear hoop)
    • Weld in bracing so the car doesn't flex
    • Get it painted - Already have a shop ready to go, I just don't trust myself lifting a motor out without scratching fresh paint


    Thats all for now. I dont get time to work on it as much as Id like to, but I will try to post as progress is made.
    Comments and suggestions are always welcome.

    Thanks!
    -Daytuna


    EDIT - Sorry for the missing pictures, when i posted them the first time they all showed up.
    Last edited by Daytuna; 06-27-2015 at 02:42 PM. Reason: Apparently I don't know how to computer...

  2. #2
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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    Derek and Iassembled most of the interior. Got the dash removed from the pacifica andinstalled into the ttop.

    there were a couplerouge connectors behind the dash I couldnt figure out where they went, but Idid turn the car half way on to ensure that all the gauges/displays work... andthey do.

    There is a smallgray 2 or 3 pin connector that hides behind the glovebox/dash, near thewindshield and firewall. I forgot to take a picture while I had it apart (fail)but when I get home tonight I will take a picture of the connector from theremoved harness.

    Also behind the radio there is a small connector that looks like a ground to me. where does this connector go?




    And there is another just like it behind the trip computer \ boost and info panel





    Cleaned/conditionedthe front driver seat and installed the driver side plastic panels and theseat.

    Rerouted BOOST, AF,TEMP, OIL, and VOLT gauges to a cleaner spot. Will have to get some wire thisweek to run power to each.

    I will take somephotos when I get home and post them later tonight.

    -Daytuna
    Last edited by Daytuna; 06-22-2015 at 11:29 AM. Reason: not the boost/info panel its the radio

  3. #3
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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    Had to run home on lunch so I figured id snap a couple pictures while I was there.

    The carpets are a bit sandy since I was climbing in and out of it the past two days... It really needs a carpet shampoo.



    Driver seat and all the plastic finally installed and working!



    The exposure on the camera wouldn't cooperate, but the oil pressure, water temp, and voltage gauges are mounted to the side of the center console. I reused the mounting holes the previous owner created, so I wouldn't have to cause any more unnecessary damage.



    yay for no cracks in the plastic and a clean dash!



    The passenger door panel swapped over nicely. Had to cut a small piece off the corner where the plastic meets the window, but all in all it looks 1000 times better than the original.


    -Daytuna
    Last edited by Daytuna; 07-02-2015 at 11:26 AM.

  4. #4
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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    Hey! It looks a little different than when I was there last!

  5. #5
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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    Orangetona - Yeah buddy!!!! got the interior finished... now gotta work on the suspension/brakes/k-member

    Quick update:

    The 2.2 motor has zero oil pressure... thank god there are some knowledgeable folks just a couple phone calls away - Thanks Aries_Turbo and Orangetona!


    And the diagnosis begins...
    Pulled valve cover off, removed sparkplugs, disconnected HEP, and cranked it over with the cover off to see if there was any sort of oil circulating through the head... there was none...

    While the VC was removed we inspected the lifters/springs and the cam. There was a small bit of rust on it.


    Figured it wasnt too terrible so I replaced the VC gasket and retorqued the bolts.

    Next I removed the fitting that feeds the oil pressure gauge off the front of the block and cranked it over to see if any oil was being circulated. Nope...

    A phone call later we decided to attempt to pull the oil pan... to my demise i forgot this car has an intermediate shaft and that needs to be removed in order to get the pan off.... with the time given, i figured i would at least try and accomplish one thing off the list.

    Derek and I completed the swap on the interior.

    All door panels, trim pieces, seats, dash and console have been installed in the TTop.




    Gotta keep the towels on the seats so you don't muff them up

    The plan for the holiday weekend:
    Get the pacifica up on stands so i can start doing the suspension/axle/brake swap. The pacifica has the big brake setup along with good unequal length axles that need to be swapped over.

    i figure while im swapping the front suspension and have the intermediate shaft out of the TTop i will pull the oil pan.

    When i pull the pan, ill also pull the pump/feedtube and assess the damage... maybe the tube is clogged up with MOUNDS of RTV like ive been seeing all over this motor....



    More updates to follow, stay tuned!
    -Daytuna

  6. #6
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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    Howdy!

    Made some major progress last weekend. Derek and I completely swapped all of the suspension and brakes from the pacifica to the ttops.
    I also pulled out the 555 from the pacifica and also swapped the axles into the Ttops.



    Transmission and Axles before removal.



    Get the frig out of there!!!!

    Completely tore the front end of the Pacfica apart at one time, but decided to swap the Ttops one side at a time and rebuild the pacifica.



    I have a really bad habit of using too much force... (yes Im the hulk) so yay for no smashed knuckles or broken sockets!

    Once the front suspension was swapped, we started doing the rear. Here is the rear completed on the TTops.


    I also undercoated the wheel wells while I had it apart... except i didn't let it dry completely so when i installed the spring i chunked some off... oh well, whole things gonna have to come apart again anyways.





    Pacifica, completely stripped and ready for departure.


    More details later tonight, stay tuned!
    -Daytuna

  7. #7
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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    Pretty sure you don't have to take the intermediate shaft loose at all to drop the oil pan.
    Rob M.
    '89 Turbo GTC

    2.5 TIII stroker, 568 w/ OBX and 3.77 FD

  8. #8
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor mopar-tech's Avatar
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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    Quote Originally Posted by Force Fed Mopar View Post
    Pretty sure you don't have to take the intermediate shaft loose at all to drop the oil pan.
    Depends on the pan and casting of the bearing support. Sometimes you have enough room, other times you do not. On my 87 CSX I had to loosen the bolts to get the pan out.


    Working on clearing the decks.

  9. #9
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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    Quote Originally Posted by mopar-tech View Post
    Depends on the pan and casting of the bearing support. Sometimes you have enough room, other times you do not. On my 87 CSX I had to loosen the bolts to get the pan out.
    The intermediate shaft was coming out anyways so it wasnt that big of a deal, but when i tried to remove the oil pan without removing the intermediate shaft the back of the pan didnt have enough clearance to get it completely out.

    After removal it was very easy to pull the pan


    -Daytuna

  10. #10
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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    I am pretty sure the number of times I have pulled the oil pan off and reinstalled it, I should be certified by Chrysler...

    Mostly having to correct my mistakes on timing, but hey I realllllly know how to take that oil pan off



    Heres what was at the bottom of the pan. I have no idea if thats normal or not, but id hafta assume that all the RTV in the oil cannot be good...

    I cleaned the pan completely, shaved off the gaskets, and cleaned again. Now that the pan is good to go, I pulled the oil pump and feed tube... this is were things get interesting...

    At first when I shook it, it sounded like a damn maraca. I grabbed some needle nose and compressed air and started pulled out rather large chunks of RTV.



    After I had cleaned the tube, I shined a light down the tube and could see something sticking out. With a little persistence this is what I found:



    UH... YUP... thats a 4inch twig that was wedged in the tube and stuck on one of the bends... had to break it in order to get it completely out.... Nice eh?

    So I went to my 2.5 CB that I had on the stand to check if the oil pump was the same, and it was identical. Swapped over the oil fill tube and replaced the oil pump as well. The pump that originally came out was very chunky, and had some really rough spots when spinning the gear.

    Upon reinstalling the oil pump, it didnt exactly line up. Im not entirely sure how it COULDNT line up correctly, regardless it didnt.



    Pulled the oil pan again, and reinstalled the pump and it lined up.

    oh wait, the slot isnt parallel to the motor... remove oil pan again.

    Line it all up, set the timing, and install the oil pan for the last time (hopefully).


    That brings up another problem.... in order to get the crank pully off, we had to completely unbolt the powersteering (SOP) but I figured out that the previous owner had fabbed up the 3" exhaust to make it fit but didnt take into consideration where the powersteering pump was located, nor the lines... So the power steering lines pretty much run right along the downpipe off the turbo. Further more... the 90 degree bend off of the turbo wedges the PS pump in such a way that the housing of the pump and the big long bolt that goes through it smash into the pipe. Its a bit hard to describe, ill take a picture tonight or tomorrow and post it.

    This car is awesome, but also super frustrating. The previous owner did some quality work, but only in certain places (typical?).

    For example: there are all sort of gauges inside that work, but the wiring had about 1294782319058-2185701 splices and crimp connectors....

    Or

    For example: 3" full no cat no muff exhaust from the turbo out, but its jammed in there that the power steering pump mashes up against it under any sort of vibration....

    Or

    For example: The bottom end of the motor was rebuilt and looks good, but put a crap oil pump in it?


    Oh well, enough ranting... stay tuned.
    -Daytuna

  11. #11
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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    You mean you didnt lift that trans out with one arm? WTF man!! Hahaha. Looks like its coming along good though! Interior looks great!

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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    10/25/2015 Update -

    Sorry its been awhile, we started a business and its been difficult to find time to do anything....
    It starting to get cold up here in NY so im preparing to put the TTops in the garage.

    The motor ended up starting and running for a little while. We discovered that the coolant system throughout the motor was completely gunked up. We flushed it out with about 10 gallons of distilled water and 3 bottles of system prep. After all of the milkshake was out of the system, I ran into an issue with the starter. Originally, the car had an issue starting which we thought might be the actual starter. I replaced it with a starter that was provided with the car and later found out it was junk.

    Here is where I stand now:
    I am sick of trying to diagnose what is wrong with this motor, not knowing 100% sure which parts are good vs bad. Im going to pull the motor in the TTops, build an SRT4 setup, weld in the cage, and get it painted. Again I cannot stress how much I wanted this car to run over the summer, but sometimes things dont go the way you want them to and turbo dodges have their own agenda anyways...

    Check out the classifieds as I will be selling a bunch of TD stuff since I wont need them for the SRT4 build.

    Ill post some pictures of the car in the garage on stands once I get it in there

    -Daytuna

  13. #13
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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    [QUOTE=Daytuna;1094268]10/25/2015 Update -

    Sorry its been awhile, we started a business and its been difficult to find time to do anything....
    It starting to get cold up here in NY so im preparing to put the TTops in the garage.

    The motor ended up starting and running for a little while. We discovered that the coolant system throughout the motor was completely gunked up. We flushed it out with about 10 gallons of distilled water and 3 bottles of system prep. After all of the milkshake was out of the system, I ran into an issue with the starter. Originally, the car had an issue starting which we thought might be the actual starter. I replaced it with a starter that was provided with the car and later found out it was junk.

    Here is where I stand now:
    I am sick of trying to diagnose what is wrong with this motor, not knowing 100% sure which parts are good vs bad. Im going to pull the motor in the TTops, build an SRT4 setup, weld in the cage, and get it painted. Again I cannot stress how much I wanted this car to run over the summer, but sometimes things dont go the way you want them to and turbo dodges have their own agenda anyways...

    Check out the classifieds as I will be selling a bunch of TD stuff since I wont need them for the SRT4 build.

    Ill post some pictures of the car in the garage on stands once I get it in there [/QOUTE]


    Uh-Oh, sh!t just got serious with this build Keep the updates coming

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  14. #14
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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    [QOUTE]Uh-Oh, sh!t just got serious with this build Keep the updates coming[/QUOTE]


    Yes indeed

    Here is a more in-depth plan:

    Send the stock 2.4l SRT4 motor (only 70k miles) to the shop to have it cleaned and checked to spec.
    While at the shop:
    Install Eagle Connecting Rods
    Install Mahle Pistons
    Install Clevite Bearings
    Weld the crankshaft straps (in order to make 600+hp)
    Install new intake/exhaust valves
    3 Angle valve job

    Once I get the motor back from the shop, Ill put it on the engine stand and start tinkering with lining up the 555 and installing the starter (ive heard its not the easiest thing to do while in the car).

    The suspension is complete, but I will be restoring a k member by cleaning it up and coating it with Por15 and also installing all new bushings/ball joints/tie rod ends.

    I currently have a 3" exhaust that will have to be removed and completely redone in order to accommodate the big turbo it its new location.

    I plan on using a low milage Borg Warner turbo off a diesel pickup truck. should be plenty of PSI's

    If you guys have any helpful hints or tips for this build, I appreciate any and all feedback.

    Stay tuned!!

    -Daytuna

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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    A quick update -

    I decided to get all of the remaining suspension pieces taken care of. I had a K member from another car to put on the TTops that I started tonight.

    So I tore everything apart.

    This is how it came.




    Crusty and dirty but no rust and everything looked moderately clean.



    Got the steering rack off and removed the swaybar. When you see the bar of persuasion, you know sh!t just got real.



    All apart! gonna send all 3 parts to the cleaners once I get the bushings out of the control arms.

    So I kind of have a thing about aesthetics... and everything HAS to match. Since my springs are lime green.....


    1st coat...

    So sure its not exactly a "performance" sway bar, but hey it will match the suspension components (springs, track bar, strut bar) and eventually the rest of the car. The rear sway bar will get the same treatment when I tackle the rear bushing project next week. Originally I was going with a black and red theme, I only think its appropriate to go with what I already have started

    More to come!
    -Daytuna

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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    *** A MUCH NEEDED UPDATE!!! ***

    I have finally gotten the motivation to finish the Daytona. It has been sitting for way too long and needs to be somewhat completed. You’re never really finished modifying a turbododge RIGHT?!

    Lets catch up on the motor. Last post (forever ago) I was trying to figure out what was wrong with the 2.2 in the car, I got discouraged and wanted to rebuild an SRT4 motor to drop in here. After going over what I had in the garage, I decided to stick w the stock motor and start with rebuild my 2.5 CB bottom end. I got enough courage to pull the motor/trans and start to sort through that parts are good and which are not. How does that saying go? “Best laid plans of mice and men”…

    Let me tell you, I was in for some surprises…

    First off, I’m not entirely sure who did what. What I can tell you is that the 2.2 motor that WAS in the car was very much hob jobbed together. If you’ve read the previous posts, we already kind of knew that…
    I understand TD’s are notorious for being relatively inexpensive to fix and fairly cheap to make fast, but there are places to cut corners and then there are somethings you just shouldn’t do.

    For example - Something you should do:
    If you’re running a turbo that has the ford style housing, you can redrill/tap new bolts onto the stock exhaust manifold. Looks like a decent job.



    Something you shouldn’t do:
    Here’s some love that Jerry spread on the wastegate…



    Would it work? I guess, maybe? I can’t imagine that it would be using the wastegate correctly, especially under boost. Not a big deal, ill get a new bracket & new wastegate.

    After doing some research the OBX turbo is some eBay special but I was told I was “new”. It has zero shaft play/spins well. I discovered this type of turbo has no coolant lines. I thought it was a bit odd but you learn something new every day.


    Doesn’t look terrible and cleaned up quite nice.

    The head was a different story… I would be bringing it to the shop so didn’t completely disassemble.


    The Engine Rebuild will continue after this break, sponsored by Yingling. Cause when the ---- doesn’t come out just drink a tall one, hit it with some PB and try again.

    Better make it an 18pack cause after hearing from the shop, I cried.
    There was a large crack between the coolant channel and the firing ring, as well as a HUGE crack between valves. The prior owner apparently tried to fix it with some sort of putty but the putty had leaked into the crack and into the coolant channel. Insert expletive here. Luckily I had an 1992 turbo head that I had previously run on my 2.2 eons ago, so I brought that to the shop and had it checked. Hopefully by the end of this paragraph you’ve pounded all the beers; come to find out both heads are completely shot. More money and more expletives needed…

    Luckily Cindy at FWD was able to help me out. I plan on getting a G head completely done up from FWD in the next couple weeks. Ported, new cam, new, new, new. I like new 😊

    Next thing I started to do was cut the bobble strut bracket off the K frame, and reweld it onto the fresh clean Kframe from the lebarron. When I cut out the bracket, I discovered that someone had already done exactly what I am about to do.



    I then cut out the extra chunks of prewelded Kframe from the bracket, looks all nice nice now.




    In the meantime, I’ve been trying to get the engine bay prepped for paint. I sanded down the original 1987 red paint and used rustoleum tough stuff rust enamel to paint the cowl and frame rails in the front. I think it turned out pretty well for a rattle can 😊



    BTW its beneficial to find a friend who works at a machine shop. they will be worth their weight in gold when trying to fab parts for these ancient things…




    I’ve never done bushings before, I got some good advice from Brian and Mike.



    The control arms got cleaned and painted. The energy suspension bushings should be here this evening.



    The plan is to pull the kframe out, paint the engine bay, then replace with the new kframe and bushings. Once completed, every suspension piece in the front will have been replaced 😊


    Since I had a 2.5 in the back of the garage I dropped it off at the shop. I should hear back from them by next week on which size pistons to order. I already have t-2 connecting rods and a good crank. As long as the block is good to go, then it should be mostly smooth sailing from here. More updates to follow since I am finally doing big work 😊

    The motor is off to the shop



    QUESTION TIME!!!! I could use some advice…
    Obviously the wastegate is bunk, and needs some tlc. My thought was to purchase the universal bracket, the 16+psi WG, and the extended wastegate arm. It looks like it would fit correctly.



    While I was pulling the turbo apart, I wanted to replace the oil feed/return gaskets. When I pulled off the one mount, I noticed that the hole is super tiny. Is that to increase flow pressure before it gets into the turbo? Is it supposed to be that way?



    Camshafts – I have a stock roller cam w followers that is a bit pitted, but would def run. If I am going through all the effort to get a new head from FWD, which camshaft would you suggest using? or just use the stock and run it?




    What the hell is this called? I would imagine id be called a brake distribution block, but I cannot find the correct replacement part. Ive been told just reuse it, but if im doing ALL new brakelines/mastercylinder/brakebooster i would rather not have to worry about the distribution hub being an issue. Any thoughts?



    Oh and go Yankees



    More to come!!
    -Daytuna

  17. #17
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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    The brake thing is the proportioning valve. It dictates the brake pressure seen by the front and rear brakes. Just re-use it unless you want to spend money on an adjustable aftermarket one. For what it's worth, I've never heard of one of ours failing. They're pretty simple devices, not much to go wrong.

  18. #18
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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    Quote Originally Posted by iangoround View Post
    The brake thing is the proportioning valve. It dictates the brake pressure seen by the front and rear brakes. Just re-use it unless you want to spend money on an adjustable aftermarket one. For what it's worth, I've never heard of one of ours failing. They're pretty simple devices, not much to go wrong.

    Ah HA! I will pull the old brake line fittings out and reuse it. Thanks!!

  19. #19
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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    Yeah just reuse them like we said

    Awesome, I like the group text daily updates haha. Always interesting

  20. #20
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    Re: Daytuna's 1987 Daytona

    That oil feed plate is a restrictor, alot of people who run ebay turbos say they are needed or you'll experience a failure.
    Years ago my father gave me an 88 pacifica, was my sister's first car. Upon tearing into it found it too rotted to put effort into it. Found another 88 pacifica with t tops on a used car lot for $400. Yeah, had an eerily similar situation lol. A lot of part swapping and work went into the t top car. Long story short, I nuked 1 motor, locked up another, car has been home since 2010. Time for a new pacifica to do right!

    Keep up the good work

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