I drove the car into the garage yesterday and everything was perfect. Fixed a fuel leak and finished my baffles for my valve cover, now the car won't run right. I didn't change anything else. I'm stumped...
https://vimeo.com/130505806
https://vimeo.com/130506024
when you were cranking it sounded like one cylinder had no compression, like when you do a compression test
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I'm with Asa, you can hear it when you start it and I can hear it while its running, you have a dead hole, do a compression test.
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!12.57@104 :O)
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
There are a few odd events..
The vacuum signal is weak and has a fair amount of pulsation with minimal change when the throttle is depressed (no change in the production boost gauge)
The fuel control is swings between rich and lean when the throttle isn't being moved (transient fuel isn't being activated)
The powerloss/eng light illuminates when left idling
For the location of work and what was done, consider checking:
Due to the chkeng light illumination - (MAP/injector/ignition fault)?
Smell the exhaust when idling...
Raw fuel - check for vacuum leaks or an ignition issue
Normal smell - check the injector harness at the main trunk and each cylinder - move them while its running
With any T-III, the cam/crank sensors are always worth checking
Hope this helps
Motor is fresh rebuild I pray I didn't loose compression. What I'm thinking is either the first cylinder injector died or there is something up with the wiring. I'll check for resistance on the injector wires after work and possibly try another set of injectors I have also.
Dont worry yet, Its probably just something simple. Main culprits for no compression on a fresh engine would be:
cam timing (didnt you just do some work on replacing a lifter disc?)
spark plug not installed
Things that would be unpleasant:
piston rings rotated wrong
cracked a piston (did you have any backfiring/tuning accidents?)
valves had an accident
EDIT:
I'm betting that lifter you fixed is now too high for some reason and force the valve to never close or not close on time. Maybe it actually did have a disc when you thought it didnt? Or the disc you put in was too thick?
How was it missing a disc anyways??
Motor is fresh rebuild I pray I didn't loose compression. What I'm thinking is either the first cylinder injector died or there is something up with the wiring. I'll check for resistance on the injector wires after work and possibly try another set of injectors I have also.
I think I found my problem, not proud of what happened, but nothing is damaged, just need to slowly and methodically rebuild what I had to tear down. Details to come later, but it has to do with the valve train.
Awesome !Originally Posted by DoubleD
Whats important is that you found it and it's nothing catastrophic.
You had mentioned repairing a fuel leak and VC baffles - what was done to the valve train?
So?>>>
1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS!
1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.
Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info
Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info
hey yeah! so what was the deal? something went wrong when you swapped in that lifter disc huh. Or...this is just a continuation of whatever caused that disc to be missing in the first place?
Alright guys, had a busy weekend and wanted to put some miles on the car before I declared it fixed.
So after posting the video I did a little more analysis, I started with a complete boost leak check, I thought perhaps I acquired a huge vacuum leak, Everything checked out, but I did find that I had a small leak on my boost gauge, so this check found that issue at least.
So next I checked compression, I didn't have my compression tester so I resorted to stuffing blue shop rags down the spark plug holes and checked for compression. Cylinders 2,3,4 shot the rag out, cylinder 1 had no compression. Terrible thoughts start going through my head.
So now I pull off both valve covers and loosen all the rocker bolts, I take tension off all of the valve springs, I then test compression on cylinder 1. I know have good strong compression. So then I pull both rocker arm assemblies off and while removing the exhaust side (16v DOHC) I find a plastic chunk of the lifter retainer has dislodged and was stuck between the lifter disc and the lifter. Then on the other cylinder 1 exhaust valve I find I accidentally installed 2 lifter discs. So at this point I disassemble all of the removable lifters and discs and start cleaning everything. I reassemble the rockers and reinstall them on the valves, being extra careful not to let any of them fall apart. Anyone who owns a TIII knows how much a pain the stock lifter assemblies are! After reassembly, I start the car, it fires right up and is idling perfect now, the vacuum at idle is 19-20 in hg now. Runs perfect, the broken lifter retainer and the double lifter discs was enough to screw up the timing and not allow cylinder 1 to fire properly. I know have 80 miles on the car since this and it is running great. Still has a lifter tick so I will be carefully pulling the valve covers and finding which lifter still does no want to pump up.
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