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Thread: Overcharging, code 46!

  1. #1
    Hybrid booster
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    Overcharging, code 46!

    So I thought my boost issue I had experienced when I was at the track last was due to my spark gap being too large and the boost was blowing it out. Well here's whats going on now.
    1. Driving a co-worker to the next town over to pick up his motorcycle, got on the gas to show him what its got. Expectedly breaks up in boost/higher revs.
    2. Drive normal and get on the highway, engine running just fine.
    3. Look down about 5 miles later and notice "Power Loss" is illuminated and my charging gauge is pretty high.
    4. Turned my headlights on bright and made the gauge reading go down to the middle
    5. Turned them off and the needle went back up. Turned blower on, and it went back down.


    From here, I now know that it has something to do with the charging system. I've had a similar issue before but don't recall how it was fixed. The alternator is externally regulated, so I imagine that the power module is the culprit. Checked codes and I got a code 46 and of course 55. I pulled up the Mini Mopar site and it said that the likely cause is a bad voltage regulator. Any thoughts before I start throwing money at it? Theres a big car show and I'd like it to be able to drive there without catching fire. Also, I'd like to not come back from this deployment just to fix my car again...

  2. #2
    turbo addict
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    Re: Overcharging, code 46!

    Yeah I would say voltage regulator for sure. Easy 2 wire hookup. They are pretty cheap too.

  3. #3
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: Overcharging, code 46!

    Get another PM or wire in an external reg.
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  4. #4
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    Re: Overcharging, code 46!

    I had thought about the external regulator. But, doesn't the write up refer to the SMEC setup or is it pretty universal?

  5. #5
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanmanČ's Avatar
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    Re: Overcharging, code 46!

    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
    1984 Chev Getaway van, 6.2 Diesel with a remote mounted turbo setup burning WMO-For sale.
    2003 GSW 2.0L TDI, auto, fully loaded, modified, 360K-wife's.
    2004 GSW TDI, 5 speed, fully loaded, modified.

    Aurora ignition wires for sale. Link to info

    Super60 roller cams or custom/billet cams. Link to info

  6. #6
    Mitsu booster
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    Re: Overcharging, code 46!

    FWIW - on my 87 GLHS when it started overcharging while driving (18 volts), I swapped the 78 amp Chrysler alternator for a 90 amp Nippondenso alternator. Car ran fine without touching the power or logic modules.

  7. #7
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    Re: Overcharging, code 46!

    I know its probably not preferred, but I think I'm going to do the external regulator for the time being just to make it to this car show.. I'm deploying this weekend and after I get back I'm gonna start putting my MegaSquirt together for the winter build

  8. #8
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Overcharging, code 46!

    Check your field wires for breaks etc. A short in the field wire will cause high voltage.

  9. #9

    Re: Overcharging, code 46!

    I installed an alternator from a Toyota. It has a built in voltage regulator. I can take some pics or maybe my build thread has some? But I would go that route, personally.
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  10. #10
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    Re: Overcharging, code 46!

    I pulled my radiator out and cleaned out the cooling system while getting the altenator out. Turns out I had some black gunk looking stuff in there and the car was riding kinda hot. Anyways, I have the alternator off and discovered the big red positive wire was completely burned at the splice that was on there. I imagine it fried the circuit or driver in the power module. But I'm taking the alternator up to advance auto parts to have it tested. If it checks out, then I'm going to try the external voltage regulator. I'm not sure of the mods I'd need to do for a Toyota alternator, and on such short time, I dont think I have the time to try it out.

    For the external regulator, do I pull the green wire OUT of the 8 pin plug and tie that wire into the external voltage regulator pin? The drawing you sent, Simon, is a little confusing to me.

  11. #11
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Overcharging, code 46!

    Quote Originally Posted by black86glhs View Post
    From where?
    Was that directed at me? The field wires are the two green ones which run off of the alternator. Cut or broken insulation on them will cause high voltage should it come into contact with ground.

  12. #12
    The moderately moderate moderator Turbo Mopar Staff
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    Re: Overcharging, code 46!

    Quote Originally Posted by cordes View Post
    Was that directed at me? The field wires are the two green ones which run off of the alternator. Cut or broken insulation on them will cause high voltage should it come into contact with ground.
    No Cordes, I was trying to answer a message on my phone and for some reason this popped up before I started typing. Didn't see it went here until now.
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  13. #13
    Hybrid booster
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    Re: Overcharging, code 46!

    Well I got it all fixed today. The two wires coming off of my alternator were white and green. BUT, these were not the stock wires. When I Traced the wires back to the 8 plug connector, the white wire turned into a blue wire, which runs to the power module and is a 12v switched source. The green field wire coming off of the alternator also ran to the power module but was NOT a 12v switched source.

    I also had my alternator tested 4 times at 4 different locations and it failed each time so I got a brand new one along with an external regalutor for a 1986 Dodge Ramcharger. Wiring back together was tricky at first, but the write up in the.knowledge section really helped.

    TO CLARIFY FOR ANYONE RESEARCHING THIS: The blue, 12v switched, wire coming from your power module (if yours is still logic/power module) needs to either be spliced or have an eyelet attached to the alternator end AS WELL AS the BLUE voltage regulator connector wire so they receive the same 12v switched signal. This blue wire runs to the middle pin of the external regulator. The green wire runs directly from the other field post to the external regulator. All you need to do with the ORIGINAL field wire is take it off and tape it shut and tuck it back into the wiring harness somewhere.

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