How to fix turn signal issues on your 90+ Daytona, also Lebaron

[DoubleD]

If you have a 90+ Daytona there is a good chance you have ran into this issue before. I have been fighting this on my car for 4+ years. I have probably installed and removed my dash surround at least 50 times, no joke. I did it at least 10 times alone last night trying to get evertything to work. What happens to me is when re-installing the surround the left blinker will intermittently work and stop working while securing the surround to the dash. I got fed up with this one last night and decided to fix it permanently.

To remove the surround:

First remove the platic clipped in cover above the dash, it has slots in it and it is clipped in, pry on one end of the cover and it should pop out.

Next remove the two screws under the cover previously removed.

Next there are two screws under the botttom of the surround, remove the further out one on the left and the right one.

The dash surround should be able to be pulled off now.

Next take the surround to your work bench and split the two halves, there are 2 more screws on the bottom to remove, there are also 5 screws inside the surround that you need to loosen, do no remove them.

You should see something like this now:



Next pull the turn signal stalk out of the switch, unplug the turn signal from the board and remove it completely.

Next remove the three small phillips screws and seperate the two halves of the board.

You should have something like this now:


Now take your soldering iron and heat up and re-flow all 12 small connections. Also re-flow the two larger connections while you are at it. Add a little new solder to all the joints to freshen up the solder too. I also re-flowed the connections where the turn signal connector attaches to the board.

Now reassemble eveything and be sure not to over tighten any of the screws. The plastic is brittle and will break fairly easily.

This fixed my turn signal issues for good, I can push on the surround in all ways and still have good contact and a fully functioning blinker!

[dwh4784]

I've never had that issue, however my turn signals stopped cancelling themselves years ago. I was hoping that was your fix in here, but I'll keep this one in mind for if I ever have this problem. Thanks!

[Reaper1]

Be careful reflowing those small pins! I ruined the first board I tried this with (man many many years ago now) because the pins actually started to come out! I didn't have the skill to fix that problem back then.

[Force Fed Mopar]

How do you reflow them, exactly?

[DoubleD]

What you are going to want to do is take your soldering pencil, a gun is too large and hard to be precise and too powerful, no good will come from trying it, put the smallest tip on you have on the pencil. Then you want to place the tip right on the pin sticking out, on top of the solder pad. Then you heat up that joint till the solder liquifies. I then add a tiny amount of solder to the joint to freshen it up, should look shiny now. This takes a little skill and I would test this on a junk board first before attempting on your board. These solder pads are small and you need to make sure non of the solder "bleeds" over onto an adjoining pad.

[Reaper1]

If you put too much on you can get solder wicks and try again...

[martin kolner]

one other thing to consider in the system besides all the stupid design features in the dash is the cancelling switch which is located on the column. This tells the system to cancel the turnsignal. Since the turnsignal switch in the dash is not connected to the wheel there is that to deal with. It has a small lever that is moved by the wheel (indirectly). If that fails then the signal won't cancel after a turn. 4326603 is the part number.

[kvnndvn]

who want's to make some money?!? My turn signals and and fourway flashers don't work at all! I gave up trying to figure it out, I am about to get a stand alone turn signal system. Mine is a 92 Iroc R/T

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and the horn doesn't work either!

[Force Fed Mopar]

The dash lights quit in my '91, wonder if it has anything to do with this stuff. I already changed the BCM, and I have a new switch to try. I was working on something to do with them and unplugged the switch cluster while the park lights were on, and the dash lights quit working. Park lights and signals still work.

[Reaper1]

who want's to make some money?!? My turn signals and and fourway flashers don't work at all! I gave up trying to figure it out, I am about to get a stand alone turn signal system. Mine is a 92 Iroc R/T

- - - Updated - - -

and the horn doesn't work either!

Grounds? Does your cruise control work? It could be the clockspring in the column causing the horn not to work. As for the flashers and the turn signals...yeah, you're going to have to troubleshoot. They made that system more complex, so there's more failure modes.

The dash lights quit in my '91, wonder if it has anything to do with this stuff. I already changed the BCM, and I have a new switch to try. I was working on something to do with them and unplugged the switch cluster while the park lights were on, and the dash lights quit working. Park lights and signals still work.

That sounds like a bad connection...and we both know about the wiring. :bash:

[kvnndvn]

Reaper, yeah cruise works like a champ. I don't want to hijack this gentleman's thread here. All in due season it will either get fixed or rust out Good luck Force Fed Mopar!

[acannell]

couple things for a beginner to keep in mind when reflowing:

Using an iron with a small tip is CRITICAL in order to do this job right, especially for a beginner.

The pads may be broken off of their traces. In that case, reflowing wont help that pad. You could scrape the green mask off the trace with an exacto knife to expose copper, and then solder from the pin to the trace, as a repair. Should be fine but it will be mechanically weaker, so be very gentle with everything.

Liquid flux can help the solder flow better and make better bonds. If your reflowed joints look dull and/or bumpy instead of smooth and shiny (like the factory ones), then consider this. No point in making bad joints that will fail. If you cant get liquid flux, using fresh solder that has flux in it is good.

Get something to remove solder with if you make mistakes. Either desoldering braid or a little handheld solder sucker.

Worst case you can always use jumper wire to solder directly from the pins to wherever the traces go, that is an absolute last resort though.

If the soldered pins were used to mechanically hold whatever they are attached to in place, consider using some kind of epoxy/glue gun to hold that piece in place, if the pads have broken off the board.

[Force Fed Mopar]

I'm assuming the cheap soldering irons from the parts stores are good enough for this work? Seems like I used one on the tach board to try reflowing it, but I dunno how good I did. tach still works when it wants lol.

[acannell]

I'm assuming the cheap soldering irons from the parts stores are good enough for this work? Seems like I used one on the tach board to try reflowing it, but I dunno how good I did. tach still works when it wants lol.

the cheap irons seem to have cheap tips, which oxidize very rapidly and then dont work very well, and then they want $9.99 for a replacement tip. so to combat that, try to finish the soldering session as quickly as possible, cleaning the tip with the wet sponge immediately after using it to solder, and then placing a blob of solder on it right after cleaning it to protect it from oxidizing until you are ready to use it for the next joint. then, clean the blob off and use fresh solder for the joint.

[DoubleD]

I did all of my work with a 45 watt Craftsman soldering iron. The key is to keep the tip protected, they oxidize fast, but I completed all the work with a cheap iron. A nice soldering iron is on my wish list down the road.

[Force Fed Mopar]

So you just hold the iron against the pin that sticks out until you see the solder turn to fluid again? And then add a dab?

[acannell]

So you just hold the iron against the pin that sticks out until you see the solder turn to fluid again? And then add a dab?

Its a little more interactive, I would practice on some scrap circuit boards first, or at least wires. Also check out youtube videos if its literally your first time soldering.

For this job, I would apply a little flux to the joint to be reflowed, then clean the iron tip and immediately apply it to the joint. The flux will boil, cleaning the joint and solder, and the solder should then reflow and leave you with a nice new joint.

Soldering is not very tolerant of muck. So if your board looks dusty/greasy or has old brown flux residue, clean all that off with a toothbrush and rubbing alcohol before even starting this.

Remember the iron is pumping heat into the pin and whatever its connected to as long as you are touching it, it can melt/damage things in a few seconds.

[Force Fed Mopar]

I've done a little soldering before, but mostly on wires. Is a hot air setup better than an iron for this? it looked like it on the videos I watched.

[acannell]

I've done a little soldering before, but mostly on wires. Is a hot air setup better than an iron for this? it looked like it on the videos I watched.

we're just talking about through hole pins right? in that case your average soldering iron is perfectly good for it

[DoubleD]

we're just talking about through hole pins right? in that case your average soldering iron is perfectly good for it

Yeah these are through hole pins going straight through the board. The soldering iron did a fine job on mine.