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Thread: 1989 Daytona Spoiler side "section" removal

  1. #1
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor amoparx's Avatar
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    1989 Daytona Spoiler side "section" removal

    Hi All, I'm having a heck of a time removing the spoiler side section from my '89 Daytona. To get the interior pieces out, It looks like the rear seat has to come out. HOW THE HECK do you do that? My manual has 3 steps with a terrible picture. Looks like the bolts in the back come off first. Where are they? '89 FWD manual doesn't say anything about dismantling the rear of the seat. I pulled the front of the backseat up first. Looks like that wasn't right. (Not like a Lebaron) Any help would be appreciated. I don't want to stand out in the rain to try to figure it out. Thanks
    Bob Doherty..... mnsdac.com
    Coon Rapids, MN
    '90 Chysler TC
    '87 Shelby GLHS #784
    '87 Shelby GLHS #654

    '87 Shelby Charger
    '89 Daytona Shelby TII T-Top
    '89 Lebaron Convert TII
    '89 Lebaron Convert TI auto



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  2. #2
    boostaholic Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: 1989 Daytona Spoiler side "section" removal

    It's actually really simple. Two bolts that you access between the back and bottom cushions, then slide it forward and the bottom hooks come loose. There is one bolt under each back cushion, just inside the inner hinge. They are the same size bolts used to anchor the seat belts to the floor. You have to squeeze down on the bottom cushion to see them, and you will need a decent length extension on your socket.

    Took me a little bit to figure it out as well, so don't feel bad. Once you find them, you will think "DUH!!"...

  3. #3
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor amoparx's Avatar
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    Re: 1989 Daytona Spoiler side "section" removal

    I figured it may be those. I've just never seen "seat belt" sized bolts holding down a seat. I saw the hooks AFTER I pulled up the front. I though, That's not right!
    Thanks!
    Bob Doherty..... mnsdac.com
    Coon Rapids, MN
    '90 Chysler TC
    '87 Shelby GLHS #784
    '87 Shelby GLHS #654

    '87 Shelby Charger
    '89 Daytona Shelby TII T-Top
    '89 Lebaron Convert TII
    '89 Lebaron Convert TI auto



    SDAC Member.expires 05/2016.MNSDAC Vice President

  4. #4
    boostaholic Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: 1989 Daytona Spoiler side "section" removal

    No problem. Glad to help!!!

  5. #5
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor amoparx's Avatar
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    Re: 1989 Daytona Spoiler side "section" removal

    Got it! Thanks! Next time I use an impact wrench. Those things are tight!
    Bob Doherty..... mnsdac.com
    Coon Rapids, MN
    '90 Chysler TC
    '87 Shelby GLHS #784
    '87 Shelby GLHS #654

    '87 Shelby Charger
    '89 Daytona Shelby TII T-Top
    '89 Lebaron Convert TII
    '89 Lebaron Convert TI auto



    SDAC Member.expires 05/2016.MNSDAC Vice President

  6. #6
    boostaholic Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: 1989 Daytona Spoiler side "section" removal

    Wait until you go to put the rear seat back in. Those bolt holes are real fun to line back up.


    You've been warned!!!

  7. #7
    turbo addict
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    Re: 1989 Daytona Spoiler side "section" removal

    put some oil in the threaded holes to start and wire wheel / brush the bolts

    a screwdriver or such will help line the holes up and give enough leverage to wiggle the seat around as you do

  8. #8
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor amoparx's Avatar
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    Re: 1989 Daytona Spoiler side "section" removal

    I kind of figured it was going to be a hassle getting them started.
    Bob Doherty..... mnsdac.com
    Coon Rapids, MN
    '90 Chysler TC
    '87 Shelby GLHS #784
    '87 Shelby GLHS #654

    '87 Shelby Charger
    '89 Daytona Shelby TII T-Top
    '89 Lebaron Convert TII
    '89 Lebaron Convert TI auto



    SDAC Member.expires 05/2016.MNSDAC Vice President

  9. #9
    turbo addict
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    Re: 1989 Daytona Spoiler side "section" removal

    Just remember those bolts ARE seatbelt bolts! You don't want them to back out.

    Tip for starting them...get the bolt in the hole by hand, then use the socket on the extension to line it up and start the threads by hand. Then you can run it home and torque it.

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