Seeking Turbo Van Owner Knowledge

[turbovanman²]

3000 pounds is 3000 pounds, doesn't matter if its a van or a Daytona. More frontal area with a van which will impact mph on the top end but ET not so much.

I'll repeat what I said- "A decent intercooler, a Garrett and a tight calibration and you would be running low 13's all day in a van."

I'd be willing to wager on it, been done several times now. I ran 12.6 with a stock intercooler, a decent sized cooler is a huge advantage over a restrictive stocker..

Gary D.

I am not going to argue on this, you have your view, I have mine, we'll just leave it at that.

[turbovanman²]

I guess from the mixed responses, I figured I could have both. Maybe not 300.. what hp is needed to pull this sled with 2 rear seats removed? I'm essentially starting with 150/180? What is max on Mitsu with daily use reliability and possible to get 14.0?

14.0 secs in a van is a lot of work.

Stock they move decently.

I ran a 14.1, street tires, maxed out TIII turbo on my 8 valve, mild head, 2 piece intake, 3 inch exhaust, 2 bar cal, full weight, around 3300 lbs.

This is what I would do-

Decent IC, will be tough due to the A/C but can be done or go with a water to air setup.

3" exhaust from the downpipe back.

TII turbo or just leave the mitsu alone.

Get a calibration, 3 bar map.

Make sure the clutch is good otherwise budget for a new one.

Can't remember but Moly plate in the trans if it needs one.

That will run 14's with traction and be a blast to drive, maybe low 15's with the mitsu.

[TopGunRMNP]

How many feet exist behind the front seats? I'm being bombarded with design sheets for storage, solar panel, sleeping. ..lol that is what this will be for lol. So, I'll stick with performance,reliability, and mileage. I'd still like it to do 14.0 though.

[TopGunRMNP]

what's the weight on the 2 rear seats? Her weight allowance is not to exceed what is removed.

[TopGunRMNP]

The ac will be removed. Never use it in any vehicle, I leave it in the srt for collectable purposes.

[mopar-tech]

I ran a 14.1, street tires, maxed out TIII turbo on my 8 valve, mild head, 2 piece intake, 3 inch exhaust, 2 bar cal, full weight, around 3300 lbs.

I ran 14.6 with mine at 14 psi with a stock garrett, full 2.5" exhaust , stock head, and stock intake.

[turbovanman²]

How many feet exist behind the front seats? I'm being bombarded with design sheets for storage, solar panel, sleeping. ..lol that is what this will be for lol. So, I'll stick with performance,reliability, and mileage. I'd still like it to do 14.0 though.

Lots, I'll measure one later.

[turbovanman²]

what's the weight on the 2 rear seats? Her weight allowance is not to exceed what is removed.

We figure somewhere around 75-100 lbs each.

The ac will be removed. Never use it in any vehicle, I leave it in the srt for collectable purposes.

That makes installing an IC a lot easier.

- - - Updated - - -

I ran 14.6 with mine at 14 psi with a stock garrett, full 2.5" exhaust , stock head, and stock intake.

Very respectable. Was that auto or 5 speed?

[TopGunRMNP]

I keep reading stock garret. .was that used in 1990 or are people referring to a stock garret swapped onto the 2.5 that only had a mitsu? Not entirely fond of the huge lag my garret has on the 85.

[mopar-tech]

Very respectable. Was that auto or 5 speed?

automatic, changed to stick later

[Reaper1]

First thing's first...baseline the thing! LOL Get it running 100%. Even though it looks like it was taken care of pretty well, still go over it with a fine-tooth comb. It looks like the fuel lines might have been replaced recently. Make sure they are fuel injection hose and that ALL of the hoses have been replaced (including the ones at the tank and filter).

Another thing that seems like it might be more common than people think is check that the bulkhead connector for the wiring harness isn't all corroded! When I had a van, mine suffered from that and I know at least 2 others that have found it to be corroded. It looks like there was a leaking heater valve or something due to all the rust stains, so checking that might save you a LOT of headaches with electrical down the road.

I would also run a compression and if you can, leak-down tests. If you feel inclined you might want to take the pan off and check the bearings. That also gives you the chance to disable/remove (if you wish) the balance shafts. That is good for some power right there, plus you can put a new gasket on the pan and maybe reduce some leaking!

[mopar-tech]

I keep reading stock garret. .was that used in 1990 or are people referring to a stock garret swapped onto the 2.5 that only had a mitsu? Not entirely fond of the huge lag my garret has on the 85.

Stock Garrett from a Turbo II application.

[RoadWarrior222]

IIRC it's ~8ft at the floor behind the seats, but only about 7'6" higher up, because of the backs.... but I could be misremembering. Seat guesstimate is 80lb and 100lb.

[Reaper1]

I keep reading stock garret. .was that used in 1990 or are people referring to a stock garret swapped onto the 2.5 that only had a mitsu? Not entirely fond of the huge lag my garret has on the 85.

They are talking about a stock T3 Garrett from either a TII or older TI (with adapter) application. The '85 is a smaller engine, totally different intake design, different head, different boost control schedule...blah blah blah...a stock Garrett T3 on a 2.5 is a GREAT match!

[turbovanman²]

They are talking about a stock T3 Garrett from either a TII or older TI (with adapter) application. The '85 is a smaller engine, totally different intake design, different head, different boost control schedule...blah blah blah...a stock Garrett T3 on a 2.5 is a GREAT match!

Yep, I have a 2.5 auto van here, with a Garrett I put it on, it friggin fly's. Its a perfect match.

[jefo]

I guess we will find out how fast a stock longblock 2.5, 5 speed, T2 garrett turbo van can go when I get my 3 bar tune and injectors. On pump gas too.

[GLHNSLHT2]

love the 2.5, best mod I ever did. with a stock 87 T2 top end on the 2.5 shortblock, S60 turbo, ported exhaust manny, 3" exhaust, 1st gen cummins IC, UDP, aluminum flhywheel, ported waterpump and a Flashable SMEC full boost was by 2500rpms, 32-34mpg around town. throttle response from idle to whatever was great, loved 5700-6000rpm shifts at the track. Going to a ported head, big plenum intake, 58mmTB and small tube header dropped the MPG by 2 (though I was tuning and doing WOT runs regularly) full boost was 1700rpms and throttle response was insane. I was planning on going to either a S50 T3/T4 with a F1-57 wheel to slow the car's boost response down a bit, or a GT30R. I picked up a hardtop to replace the T-top and when I pulled the motor the header was cracked. Instead of fixing it I decided to invest that money into my 16v Masi 2.5 build. That 2.5 was a lot of fun, I hope the 16v is just as fun.

Guess my point is you can have a dog of a 2.5 that wheezes out of breath at 4000rpms or so or you can build it right and have a stump pulling high revving monster of an engine.

[TopGunRMNP]

Would 04m 05 SRT4 injecotors be sufficient for more fuel if the pump is up for it? I think they are something like 577's would that be about +30? Awesome responses guys, thank you all! Love the build estimates, ideas, and directions for me.

So essentially to get the easiest speed from it after going over everything and seeing how it has held up to 185k is:

1) 3" turbo back or down pipe back?
2) Intercooler setup after AC delete, any links for how to, and also would an SRT-4 stock IC work or something else preferred? Needs BOV too, not a huge fan of those, still have stock recirculator bov on my SRT, but I can see where the fun chuckles would come in at a red light lol.
3) Larger injectors and possibly walbro?
4) Calibration or/vs grainger valve?
5) Stock turbo from any Garrett T2 or T3 engine, how about the T1 Garrett's? + New oil lines, will they match to the block easy or more modification there as well?
6) If I don't go with a new calibration, then do a fan switch mod + 180stat.
7) Cold Air to fender.
8) Does the intake manifold need to be changed if switching to Garrett, and what's the talk about swingvalves? Is that essentially the WGA valve section that allows flow from block to turbine? + stock WGA good for desired psi levels with either mitsu or Garrett?
8.5) Everyone but 1 post said it's the same log setup as my 85 T1, but it sure looks more like a 2 piece intake with the plenum visible in the rear? What is it exactly and what do I need?
9) Check timing cam and ignition, set to 14*?
10) I read about swapping for an 84 or 85 turbo HEAD + drilling some extra water passages + copper gasket. What net gain is this, or no initial gain but more compression room for future gains?
11) What 3bar sensors do I need and how to hook them up, I think GM is the common one? Or should I do the resistor/diode trick or what is best? Does the LM automatically adjust fuel at WOT based on sensed PSI, so I need to add injector size as boost goes up especially on better flowing garrett?
12) Anything else you can all think of? Clutch easy to replace when the inevitable happens, and what type to replace with?

[GLHNSLHT2]

My van setup would be,

600hp Water/Air IC kit from Frozenboost.com, allows you to keep the AC or not have to worry about pulling it anyway.
2 piece intake,
Ported exhaust manny,
S60 turbo or 46trim T3/T4 setup with a stage 2 exhaust and .63 housing
ATP Swingvalve (o2 housing)
3" exhaust from turbo back
Flashable SMEC
Cut the chain for the balance shafts if not remove and plug the whole too.
UDP

when clutch goes Aluminum flywheel and a 6 puck solid hub SPEC clutch.

3 bar and +40 S60 injectors would probably come later. I like an aftermarket fuel rail just to get AN fittings on there as I hate the stock stuff.


1) 3" turbo back or down pipe back? Not with a Mitsu, you'll have uncontrollable boost creep
2) Intercooler setup after AC delete, any links for how to, and also would an SRT-4 stock IC work or something else preferred? Needs BOV too, not a huge fan of those, still have stock recirculator bov on my SRT, but I can see where the fun chuckles would come in at a red light lol. See suggestion above, Talon BOV setup welded to tank of IC
3) Larger injectors and possibly walbro? only after the wideband says you're out of fuel
4) Calibration or/vs grainger valve? Both, I could never get the boost undercontrol with the latest cals and a modded turbo so I tune the ECU and let the grainger control boost
5) Stock turbo from any Garrett T2 or T3 engine, how about the T1 Garrett's? + New oil lines, will they match to the block easy or more modification there as well?T1 garretts make great donors to swap T2 housings onto but you'll want one from a T2 to bolt on. The T3 garretts are different
6) If I don't go with a new calibration, then do a fan switch mod + 180stat. I keep the 195 t-stat drill a .040" hole in the top and go. Monitoring temps on the scanner with a 180 degree t-stat showed the temps being in the 160's all the way home. with the 195 and small hole it shoots up to 180 quickly and holds around 185-190 on the freeway.
7) Cold Air to fender. 3" filter to turbo hose with the biggest cone you can get on there if anything
8) Does the intake manifold need to be changed if switching to Garrett, and what's the talk about swingvalves? Is that essentially the WGA valve section that allows flow from block to turbine? + stock WGA good for desired psi levels with either mitsu or Garrett?No you can keep the crappy 1 piece but expect power to fall off at 5200rpms. As for Swingvalves see suggestion above. It is Garrett only
8.5) Everyone but 1 post said it's the same log setup as my 85 T1, but it sure looks more like a 2 piece intake with the plenum visible in the rear? What is it exactly and what do I need?No, any 88+ turbo 1 and 2 got the blowthrough 1 piece intake, 87 blowthrough cars were T2 and had the better 2 piece intake.
9) Check timing cam and ignition, set to 14*? yes but leave it at 12 degrees
10) I read about swapping for an 84 or 85 turbo HEAD + drilling some extra water passages + copper gasket. What net gain is this, or no initial gain but more compression room for future gains? The g-head lowers compression. But then hurts responsiveness of the motor if stock IMO, keep the swirl.
11) What 3bar sensors do I need and how to hook them up, I think GM is the common one? Or should I do the resistor/diode trick or what is best? Does the LM automatically adjust fuel at WOT based on sensed PSI, so I need to add injector size as boost goes up especially on better flowing garrett? GM or Omnipower for a 3 bar map. Diodes are dangerous. The van or any 88-89 cars use a SMEC, both the PM and LM are mounted in 1 unit under the hood. I'd go flashable so you can tune it yourself with a laptop and a wideband
12) Anything else you can all think of? Clutch easy to replace when the inevitable happens, and what type to replace with? see above for clutch recommendation

[wheming]

If you are going to SDAC, i have a TU 3" minivan exhaust kit i never used. I have a 3" downpipe too. I need to make a for sale thread...