destroyed rod bearings

[Fox]

what would cause this to happen to the rod bearings ? there was no detonation or sound just # 4 seized to the crank at nearly idle rpms. looks like it cracked into pieces and stacked up. # 3 was also cracked. pistions and bores aren't damaged and there isnt even much wear on the cylinders but found some odd stuff in the oil pan and some dings in the oil pump. i think the rod bearings where shot since i bought the car and thats what killed the original turbo, just curious what exactly happened in there since it ran well for 5k miles since ive had it

btw: how bad is it that there where no washers on the head bolts ?

[Ondonti]

Previous owner probably ran it low on oil but I would question your oil supply for it all of a sudden to lose that bearing. Idle oil pressure is the weakest and its possible your pump moves nearly zero oil at idle. Loose motor from running low on oil plus very low oil pressure =

Doesn't matter about the washers because you took it apart before it did matter :P They provide a more accurate torque and spread load.

[moparloper]

From the looks of what's in the second picture, maybe wrist pin clips and parts of a piston. Could be he blew a piston or two, did a quick rebuild and never cleaned out the pan & pick-up. Killed the turbo shortly after and the bottom end was next.

[Force Fed Mopar]

Annnd this is why the first thing I always check on a newly acquired 2.2/2.5 car is the rod bearings...

[turbovanman²]

That motor is toast, too much wrong with it to pinpoint a true failure but it probably started with the oil pump, then then took out the rod bearings and who knows what.

You need at least 2 rods, probably a crank. That engine needs to come apart, head taken apart and hot tanked etc. No wonder your turbo let go.

I have NO idea what those chunks of brass and rocks" are. Does it have balance shafts? The clips could be wrist pin clips but never seen anything like that inside an engine before. Looks like a red neck rebuild,

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

back in the day , around 90-94 I learned useing 5 liters of castrol can cause issues just like this - if you run the 2.2 at 7200 rpm a few times a day , everyday

I tryed 5w30 , 10w30 and even 2050 would show nothing on the dipstick when pulled out hot as the hot castrol wouldn'r even cling to the dipstick to show how much oil was in the motor

I switched to Q State 10 30 and never ever lost another rod bearing
with castrap it had a 4-6 month life expectancy on a rebuilt motor

I hate castrol so much now I drive on to the next store or gas station if I needed oil and all they had is castrol , better off low that full of xxxx

[Fox]

2.2l no blanace shafts. it was run on castrol before i got it, sticker under the hood. anyhow once the bearings came off the crank it wasnt that bad so i'm hoping it can be resized since its forged , everything else yea its going to need lots of cleaning. new rods when the time comes and get fordged pistons.

will be putting in a complete 2.5l for now

[shackwrrr]

Parts chunks look like turbo bearing parts.

[Force Fed Mopar]

I have Castrol in mine right now, no problems.

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

I wish you continued luck with that ^

quite possiably their stuff is different than in 90-94 (?)

I also changed over to useing the lightweight rod 86-7 motors when I changed to q state too so in addition to no more castrol I also refuse to own anymore 85 motors
paid to rebuild 6 of them , decided it was always gonna be a lost cause so I changed my TD habbits around a bit

TII setup on my 86 daytona is on the o-e bottom end , never rebuilt , no issues
I'm also not keen on putting the weight back in with a set of TII rods so I've stashed away a set of B.C. rods for my next build

at 200 ish hp I'll always take an 86 over an 85 ... now lol

[tinyturbo]

One thing I learned quickly when building a turbo motor as opposed to the normal N/A engine is dont use tri metal bearings, they dont have the load capacity and that is why they came from the factory with bi metal bearings, not to say that this has anything to do with your engines failure but just a tip for your engines longevity, this engine had so many issues theres no way to nail down what went wrong first, lack of oil pressure was the end result, if the turbo bearings were shot and the engine was kept running it could have bleed enough oil to get very little to no oil pressure at low rpms

[dwh4784]

I'm surprised to hear the Castrol bashing. I switched everything I own to Castrol High Mileage when I had my VW Bus, it was the "stuff" to use with those motors. Never had an issue running that thing for 3+ hours at basically WOT on the highway, or a problem in my Lebaron or Chevy Motorhome. To each their own, I'd think something catastrophic happened to this motor rather than using the wrong brand oil though.

[turbovanman²]

Any name brand oil will do the trick, just head over to Bob is the Oil guy. I run Rotella T6 5w40 in everything I own, after its been broken in of course.

[Force Fed Mopar]

I had Pennzoil yellow bottle before the Castrol, before that just whatever cheap house brand oil I could get from the parts stores. Checked the bearings a few months ago, after 3-4 years of beating on it they still looked brand new. I don't think oil brand has anything at all to do with this failure. More likely low oil pressure or detonation. Or it had 150k on it and then someone cranked up the boost and ran it hard. For some reason people seem to have a hard time understanding that this is a bad thing to do

[Fox]

, learned alot though so no harm done, at least now i know enough about these engines i can thoroughly check things so this donsent happen again, its much easier than i thought it was, and if i knew what i do now i would have had it apart and prevented the failure. this engine was definitely apart before i got it and whatever was done may be the cause of some of the damage

[RoadWarrior222]

Maybe it's the Canadian East Coast Castrol that sucks, I have hated the stuff every time I weakened and bought on sale. Their high mileage blend I had to change out after less than 1000 miles, first off it sounded like motor got loose rod ends and piston slap just idling in driveway and second it seemed it had wayyyyyyyyyy too much detergent vs seal conditioner because motor started leaking all over.... and by all over, I mean the castings also started sweating oil, years after their porosity was gummed up.

I like Pennzoil, but you shouldn't be using yellow bottle in a turbo methinks, silver is the synth.

[Ondonti]

I had Pennzoil yellow bottle before the Castrol, before that just whatever cheap house brand oil I could get from the parts stores. Checked the bearings a few months ago, after 3-4 years of beating on it they still looked brand new. I don't think oil brand has anything at all to do with this failure. More likely low oil pressure or detonation. Or it had 150k on it and then someone cranked up the boost and ran it hard. For some reason people seem to have a hard time understanding that this is a bad thing to do

I think that has 100% to do with using a 150k mile oil pump and not having a real oil pressure gauge. As long as you have a good oil supply, I don't consider mileage a weakness.