About a third done with the furnace- Disconnected the old unit, pulled all the steam pipe and stack, setup a come along in the garage and dragged it up a ramp built on the stairs. Lowered the new one down (580 pounds) and started gaming out the plumbing. All the 2" steam pipe is done and now we have to complete the 1 1/4" returns, copper lines for the fill and hot water, exhaust stack, install the burner and reroute the oil lines and do the wiring.
Working on clearing the decks.
jeepers, you are alot faster than I.... though i have a 2 year old and a 2 week old to contend with too....
i picked mine up from the dude i bought it from and hauled it in the basement with a friend and set it on 2x4's and went to bed lol.
the guy was pretty cool. works at a local small brewery. sent us home with free beer lol.
Brian
Originally Posted by turbovanman
The last 2 days have been really long.
Furnace is up and running with just a few minor issues to address, mostly steam leaks at one or two unions and a stubborn slow water leak at one of the supplied fittings on the water heater coil. Have them all wrapped up in the morning.
Got one hell of a work out. Cut something like 15 pieces of 2" and 1 1/4" black iron pipe and threaded them on each end by hand.
Working on clearing the decks.
nice job.
still on oil? me too.
i have forced air though. my supply plenum is cut to height and i had to order a 20x20 filter tray though and ill have to rework the return.
Brian
Originally Posted by turbovanman
Is that the entire unit and it just goes to those oil radiators throughout the house?
I don't want my heat pump to fail as I have no idea how it works and wouldn't want to pay for the probably extreme labor costs that come with doing something you don't know how to do. Thats car project money you are saving right there.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
Steam radiators, single path steam.
I considered upgrading to air unit or going gas but the numbers just didn't work out. Gas would be nice but there is no pipeline around here and if you pay for gas to be trucked in its as much as 4 bucks a gallon if you don't own the tank!
My brother in law is an HVAC tech and helped me do the install, even so it still cost me several thousand to get this done. Just in pipe and fittings alone we were over $700 since none of the original plumbing could be re-used.Thats car project money you are saving right there.
If I had to have a shop do it though, would have easy been 8k-11k
Just figure labor costs for 2 HVAC shop techs for 2 days (more like 3 days since we worked more than 8 hours a day) and we were working like madmen too.
One less thing I have to worry about for some time though.
Working on clearing the decks.
WBV-04, same exact thing I've got sitting in my basement. Had to put it in a year after I bought my house (had a Utica that had a hole in one of the heat exchanger sections that was big enough to fit my hand into - I have to keep promising myself that I won't live in a house with steam my whole life).
What are all those fittings attached to the skim port? Plus, what did you do for a low-water cutoff? I have the big manual one that I open once a week.
Jon J.
1989 Daytona ES 2.4L DOHC
2003 Neon SXT - gone but never forgotten
If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is!
Forced air heat is absolute crap… Once it cuts off the cold just creeps right back in.
1994 Shadow Sedan. 2.2 N/A, A568 400,000 miles. "the science experiment"
1987 Shelby CSX #418. Long term rebuild and restore ?
The skim port (center of large black circle on left side for those wondering) has a ball valve for draining. In this case it is rotated to 2 o'clock position because it was leaking at the bushing adapter. I fixed that this morning after the furnace cooled down.
I fixed the leak and added the extension back on.
On this unit it is behind the large black box in the center, which will also do a random low water check while running. It will shut the furnace down during a burn and let the water settle before continuing. Freaked me out the first time it happened but I noticed the "intermittent water check" LED on and looked it up in the manual.Plus, what did you do for a low-water cutoff?
After listening to it kick on and off it still wigs me out a little. I'm use to listening to the furnace run and when it STOPPED running there was cause for concern.
The cycling on and off actually woke me up last night.
Working on clearing the decks.
I had the same reaction to the newer-style burner controller that has a delayed fire (oil pump primes for 10 seconds, then the ignition comes on). After I had listened to my last one run dry a few times, I hated hearing that same pump-running no-flame sound regularly.
Jon J.
1989 Daytona ES 2.4L DOHC
2003 Neon SXT - gone but never forgotten
If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is!
CSX is in the work bay and were getting up to speed- Computers are out and being swapped, I'm not even using the same chip. Fuel injectors already been hijacked from Faith's Rampage and I'm using a different fuel rail and regulator to be safe. Turbo is out. Knock sensor is out.
I want to rebuild the injector harness just because, anyone point me in the direction of replacement injector connectors and pins for the mopar injector harness plug?
Thanks!
Working on clearing the decks.
Not sure about the harness conector, but the injector plugs are available here: http://www.diyautotune.com/
I'll look. The sub-harness pins use to be available from mopar as a repair package, just a spade and socket connector with catch for the plastic plug housing.
- - - Updated - - -
Oh and the car is getting an EGT gauge. I'm slightly paranoid as to what the intermittent hiccup/skip problem is and wish to leave no stone unturned.
Working on clearing the decks.
I have a Magnum 5.2 engine harness for parts and the injector terminals are in great shape, I'm going to use them.
And yes I tested fitted them, they work fine.
Working on clearing the decks.
I wanna say i used a 3.9 or 5.2 harness to rebuild an injector harness once. Those squeeze tab injector connectors are a little thing that make a huge difference in how you 'feel' about it, even if they dont 'work' any better once they're on.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
i rebuilt my injector harness on my reliant... i bought new injector connectors and pins from connectorsfast. i think these http://connectorsfast.net/shop/index...&product_id=55
then i bought a crimper for those type of terminal.
and i bought some green, black and tan wire at jegs.
i reused the pins at the harness connector and soldered/crimped the new wire to the old connector. they didnt have a spot of corrosion on them once i cleaned off the grease. now the old injector ends.... they were pretty rough and brittle and green.
Brian
Originally Posted by turbovanman
Update- This morning pulled apart the cylinder head, intake and turbo. Split the intake to make sure no one "ported" the halves (no one had but there were some odd gouges in the upper ports we will smooth up a bit with a sandpaper roll.) Got the magnetic dial indicator out to check for TDC tolerance stack. Found that the TDC mark is off 1 degree, which isn't enough to get excited about. Started laying out some of the wiring for the new injector harness.
I still don't like the way the roller cam looks, going to swap it out while the engine is opened up.
Working on clearing the decks.
Worked on the intake top this morning. Someone had added a 52 mm throttle body in the past and the opening was rather rough and shallow. Ported it proper and blended deep into the elbow. Cleaned up some casting flash. degreased the whole assembly. Replaced the charge air sensor. blueprinted a spare distributor. stripped down the old injector harness and fabricated up a new one.
Working on clearing the decks.