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Thread: Seriously?

  1. #1

    Seriously?

    Ok, so where else besides autostoned can you buy an ignition starter switch for an 89 Lebaron with tilt wheel? AutozOne is special ordered only. Napa, Oreilly, rockauto, cargeek etc only have non tilt wheel switches available.

    This is seriously stupid.



    Thanks..

  2. #2
    boostaholic
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    Re: Seriously?

    In special part cases such as this I find the stock replacement OEM part number and start searching for the OEM number. I have found that at times the replacement has not been mapped to a specific car yet has been mapped to a OEM part number. Also arizona parts may have one.

  3. #3

    Re: Seriously?

    Oem is 4373418. But I looked. Why is this one so damn difficult to find?

  4. #4
    turbo addict
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    Re: Seriously?

    eBay has 4373418, but show as a dimmer switch.

  5. #5
    Hybrid booster
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    Re: Seriously?

    They are the same switch with a different bottom plate. You can swap the plate over if you are careful.

  6. #6

    Re: Seriously?

    Really? That's kind of funny but I guess typical Chrysler lol. I had even hoped it was a shared part with another manufacturer, but no lol. How to switch the plates?

  7. #7

    Re: Seriously?

    Ok, so I'm thinking this manual is stupid and doesn't know what it's talking about. That can't be the ignition switch.

    Where exactly is the ignition switch on an 89, lebaron with tilt wheel? Isn't it part of or next to the lock cylinder?

  8. #8
    turbo addict
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    Re: Seriously?

    down the bottom end of the cllm - on top is where you find the switch

    there's a link rod running from the key cylinder down to it just like the high beam switch

    if you look under the dash at the switches while rotateing the key vs jiggleing the turn sig arm for high beams you'll see the rod /switch you're looking for

    been a while since I looked but I think the rod to the ign switch id right on top of the collum

    the high beam rod should be to the left side of the collum
    (high beam rods have a habbit of poping out of the socket in the switch they fit into - a dab of silicone stops that)

  9. #9
    turbo addict
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    Re: Seriously?

    Looking at the pics on RockAuto, it appears the switch would be down towards the bottom of the column. They only had the non-tilt units shown though.
    “If the people of the nation understood our banking and monetary system, I believe there would be a revolution before tomorrow morning.” -Henry Ford

  10. #10
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Seriously?

    Quote Originally Posted by krut View Post
    They are the same switch with a different bottom plate. You can swap the plate over if you are careful.
    They are not the exact same in that the wiring will not fit the way it originally did. This is at least true for a P body. You can make it work, but I don't like stretching the wiring like I had to do for my 89 CSX when it comes to such an important connection.

  11. #11
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Seriously?

    ETA: This video will be helpful to you at certain points. Try 8:22 for a decent shot of the ignition switches. They're the big female connector on the top of the two columns. I think I also address some of the column differences in this video and even P body column differences by year.


  12. #12
    Hybrid booster
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    Re: Seriously?

    Quote Originally Posted by cordes View Post
    They are not the exact same in that the wiring will not fit the way it originally did. This is at least true for a P body. You can make it work, but I don't like stretching the wiring like I had to do for my 89 CSX when it comes to such an important connection.
    It was a few years back when I did it, but I remember being irritated that the non tilt didn't mount in the same location, or the same way as the tilt model. I took apart a new non-tilt switch and put the tilt switch mounting plate on it to install it in the same location on the column. At least that's what I *think* I did.

    At any rate, check Kemparts UL615. It's listed under an 89 Daytona. It's called out as a w/ Tilt switch.
    Should be the same as the Lebaron.

  13. #13
    Buy my stuff!!!!!!!!!!! :O) Turbo Mopar Vendor turbovanman²'s Avatar
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    Re: Seriously?

    Are you looking for the actual switch or the lock cylinder?
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  14. #14
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: Seriously?

    Quote Originally Posted by krut View Post
    It was a few years back when I did it, but I remember being irritated that the non tilt didn't mount in the same location, or the same way as the tilt model. I took apart a new non-tilt switch and put the tilt switch mounting plate on it to install it in the same location on the column. At least that's what I *think* I did.

    At any rate, check Kemparts UL615. It's listed under an 89 Daytona. It's called out as a w/ Tilt switch.
    Should be the same as the Lebaron.
    I totally agree that it can be made to work, but it's still not ideal in my book. I would certainly do it if I needed to get some place with no other option, but when I've got to purchase a part anyway I would opt. for the proper one for the column. Granted the wiring situation may be worse in a P body vs. a J body.

  15. #15

    Re: Seriously?

    The switch itself, as it seems to be a possible culprit on the non start issue. I dropped the column and took off the switch I thought was the ignition switch, but no other parts store images of the part match, not even close outside the metal rod part.

  16. #16
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: Seriously?

    Could be your looking for the wrong part #, '89 G-J-Q "Switch ignition & start, W/tilt" list as 4221218, looks like $31 bucks from mopar. 4373418 is for the dimmer switch, they're $51

  17. #17
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor jonnymopar's Avatar
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    Re: Seriously?

    You sure RockAuto doesn't have any?? I just bought one for my Daytona a month ago!
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