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Thread: Staging Brake

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  1. #1
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    Staging Brake

    Is anyone using the CNC staging brake, or equivalent, in their cars? I'm looking into getting one for the Omni but there are few write ups on the install and I'm a little confused on how I can lock up ONLY the rear brakes during a burnout with them. Thanks!

  2. #2
    turbo addict
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    Re: Staging Brake

    if it's anything like a hurst line lock you would simply install it on the lines comeiing outta the prop valve that go to the rear brakes instead of the fronts

    https://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&q...OKyCsQSW54D4Dg

  3. #3
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    Re: Staging Brake

    Well I went ahead and ordered a hydraulic e-brake that I will use in conjunction with the cable e-brake. By that I mean that the cable e-brake will primarily be used as the parking brake and the hydro-brake will be used for staging, pre-loading, burnouts, etc at the track. I suppose I will make a how-to write up and video on how to do it for anyone else that wants to use it

  4. #4
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    Re: Staging Brake

    Got a link to what you bought?

  5. #5
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    Re: Staging Brake

    Yes I do! I wanted to get the CNC version, but I couldn't find anywhere that had one, even on eBay. So I found the one that was recommended to me by a friend of mine who got one for his drag CRX.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/231430763606...606%26_rdc%3D1

  6. #6
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    Re: Staging Brake

    Heres the exact one that was recommended to me. As you can see, it's fairly tall and a good decent size.


  7. #7
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    Re: Staging Brake

    Might be a little tricky on our cars. All modern cars have two separate circuits for the brake system, so if something fails you do not loose all your brakes. Most just have a front circuit and rear circuit. That makes this easy to install because you just tap into the rear. Our cars however use a "X" system. One circuit is the drivers front and pass rear. The other is the opposite. So you can't just tie into the rear system. Your going to have to separate them somehow. The other option, if you have rear discs is to add another set of rear calipers. I saw on another post you are planning on going all out racecar with this omni. If it was me I would probably delete the booster, go to a aftermarket MC and completely replumb the brakes to a front/rear setup. No matter what you do it's going to be a lot of work.

    Any reason you can't accomplish what your wanting to do with just the e brake?

  8. #8
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    Re: Staging Brake

    The e brake that's on there now, I've tried many times to get adjusted and to make it work, but it just keeps stretching and it only locks up one tire, barely at that. Everytime I try to do a burnout, even in the waterbox in second, the tires will roll, not slide. I cant get the slicks hot enough. So im going hydraulic because it can put alot more pressure to hold the car still

  9. #9
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    Re: Staging Brake

    Shadow said he had installed one after I bugged him to do it. He never shared any pictures and I don't think he liked using it.

    You can nix the safety stuff. Could.
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  10. #10
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Shadow's Avatar
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    Re: Staging Brake

    Quote Originally Posted by Ondonti View Post
    Shadow said he had installed one after I bugged him to do it. He never shared any pictures and I don't think he liked using it.

    You can nix the safety stuff. Could.

    Well Late to the party......as usual! lol

    I did install one of these in the Charger and I don't remember saying I "didn't like it". What I think I said is I don't know if it's helping any with launch/ axle longevity? (if memory serves)

    One thing I really liked about it is when you're on a track with uneven launching surface. Right at staging where you can sometime "roll out" of the staging lights. That doesn't happen to me anymore with the staging brake

    Now for install, I just ran the rear line into the staging brake cyl, then out the other end to the rear brakes. Was pretty simple, but you really have to make sure you bleed it well or you can get a funky "feel" to the brakes from air in the system as it passes through that staging brake cyl.

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  11. #11
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    Re: Staging Brake

    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow View Post
    Well Late to the party......as usual! lol

    I did install one of these in the Charger and I don't remember saying I "didn't like it". What I think I said is I don't know if it's helping any with launch/ axle longevity? (if memory serves)

    One thing I really liked about it is when you're on a track with uneven launching surface. Right at staging where you can sometime "roll out" of the staging lights. That doesn't happen to me anymore with the staging brake

    Now for install, I just ran the rear line into the staging brake cyl, then out the other end to the rear brakes. Was pretty simple, but you really have to make sure you bleed it well or you can get a funky "feel" to the brakes from air in the system as it passes through that staging brake cyl.
    So how are your brakes plumbed? Tee'd the rears together or just ran the brake on one rear brake or you have your brakes set front and rear?
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  12. #12
    Supporting Member II Turbo Mopar Contributor Shadow's Avatar
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    Re: Staging Brake

    Quote Originally Posted by Ondonti View Post
    So how are your brakes plumbed? Tee'd the rears together or just ran the brake on one rear brake or you have your brakes set front and rear?
    I have the adjustable Wilwood prop valve which send 1 run to the rear. (adjustable) That line runs through the staging brake and then splits evenly to Both rear disc brakes.

    Robert Mclellan
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  13. #13
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    Re: Staging Brake

    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow View Post
    I have the adjustable Wilwood prop valve which send 1 run to the rear. (adjustable) That line runs through the staging brake and then splits evenly to Both rear disc brakes.
    Basically like this?

  14. #14
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    Re: Staging Brake

    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow View Post
    I have the adjustable Wilwood prop valve which send 1 run to the rear. (adjustable) That line runs through the staging brake and then splits evenly to Both rear disc brakes.
    You swapped out the entire master cylinder to save weight right?
    Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56

  15. #15
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    Re: Staging Brake

    You can make it work, you just have to redo the brake lines, instead of the factory X setup, you just change it like all the other cars, one side of the MC does the front, the other does the rear.

    Nice find, looks like something off F and F,

    Edit, that would be a nice way to add a handle type e-brake, get rid of the foot pedal.
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  16. #16
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    Re: Staging Brake

    I'm wondering how I can change the braking system from the X-pattern to Front/Rear. Arent there 4 independant lines? And cant i just tap into the 2 lines in the rear? Anyone got a brake routing diagram?? lol

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    Re: Staging Brake

    Its an X, durr, lol. Seriously though, the factory does LF and RR, RF and LR, using one port on the MC to feed each circuit, so you have to redo it so its LF/RF and LR/RR. Not really that hard, just time consuming.
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
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  18. #18
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    Re: Staging Brake

    Does that mess the brake bias up If I switched the lines around like that?

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    Re: Staging Brake

    Quote Originally Posted by BoostedDrummer View Post
    Does that mess the brake bias up If I switched the lines around like that?
    Why would it? The prop valve does the biasing, not the MC.
    1989 FWD Turbo Caravan-2.5 TIII, GT35R, auto, a/c, cruise, pwr windows/locks, fully loaded with interior and ran with full exhaust. RETIRED FOR A FEW YEARS! 12.57@104 :O)
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  20. #20
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    Re: Staging Brake

    I need a picture of the MC, I have one but theres a disconnect to the image im thinking in my head... lol

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