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Thread: 89 Daytona losing power

  1. #41

    Re: 89 Daytona losing power

    Repeat the test, but this time pull the rail and injectors, wire them to 12v while pushing the pump to 80psi... flow and pressure...

  2. #42
    boostaholic Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: 89 Daytona losing power

    After hooking up a vacuum/boost gauge right in front of the regulator, and going for another drive, I'm now convinced it's the pump. The regulator is seeing a good strong vacuum/boost signal, and the pressure still drops off, so I'm in the process of replacing it. Unfortunately, the brand new sock I had installed, came off the pump while trying to remove it. I'm debating draining the tank and fishing it out, or saying to heck with it, and just spend the $10 for a new one. What's it going to hurt? It's in the resevoir, not like it can go anywhere, or get sucked into the pump...

  3. #43
    boostaholic Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: 89 Daytona losing power

    The pump did it. Finished installing it last night, and now it runs great. I'm beginning to wonder if the hillbillies didn't buy a TBI pump by mistake, or just screwed up a turbo pump? Anyway, I took it for a 40 mile drive last night, and it ran great. I did discover a new issue that I need to research. At full throttle, it seems to want to go into overboost shutdown. The boost gauge reads almost 15 psi. I need to research this. I know I've read posts about this before. As long as I stay below about 3/4 throttle, it's fine. At least it's running reliably, and I can start driving it. I can work on the little bugs over time...

    Thanks to everyone who posted suggestions on this thread. It's absolutely awesome to have this kind of support to diagnose issues!

  4. #44
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor 2.216VTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: 89 Daytona losing power

    Cool, got the hard part figured out! Nothing is on it for boost control, a Grainger a bleed? If not check to make sure they don't have the wastegate can shimmed away from the compressor housing(to increase flapper seat pressure) with some washers.

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  5. #45
    boostaholic Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: 89 Daytona losing power

    Quote Originally Posted by 2.216VTurbo View Post
    Cool, got the hard part figured out! Nothing is on it for boost control, a Grainger a bleed? If not check to make sure they don't have the wastegate can shimmed away from the compressor housing(to increase flapper seat pressure) with some washers.

    I found it last night. It was a cracked vacuum line going to the boost control solenoid. It was cracked right at the 3 way connector above the waste gate can. I couldn't see it under the intake manifold. I had to feel it. Now it stops at 10 psi.

    I changed the front cam & crank seals yesterday. They were leaking pretty bad. The rear main is leaking too, but that's a big job. I think it will wait for the 5-speed conversion... Got it all back together, and I think the cam is retarded one tooth... Doesn't seem to have quite as much "pep" as before. I checked it 3 times before putting it all back together... it is so tough to see all the marks with the engine in the car...

    Drove it to work this morning, and it's running great. Never missed a beat. I did discover that I have the infamous HVAC vacuum issue. Step on it, and it goes to defrost... I need to check into that. Given that it won't go back to where I set it until I get off the gas and it sees about 20" of vacuum, I'm assuming it's a leak inside, but I will check the check valve as well.

    I have a list of other smaller issues:

    Gas gauge works when it wants to. I think it's the connector at the tank. When I checked it last night, I have good resistance on the sending unit, and I have good voltage at the connector. I just don't like how the connector slides onto the sending unit. Just doesn't seem very positive. After looking at it last night, it worked fine. Got in this morning, and it's not working again...

    Odometer doesn't work, but the speedo does. Probably gears...

    Fog lights don't work, but that's minor.

    Power mirrors only work up and left. I'm assuming the switch is bad.

    I have a broken terminal in the driver's power door lock connector, so the power door locks don't work. Again, fairly minor, I just need to get a connector from a donor car.. When I touch the wire to the broken terminal, they work fine. Unfortunately, the way that connector is built, I don't see any way to repair it.

    I'll get there eventually. All part of owning a 25 year old car...

  6. #46
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor 2.216VTurbo's Avatar
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    Re: 89 Daytona losing power

    There's a million ways to time the cam but using 'all the marks' never works for me I pull the #1plug, put the piston all the way up, align the flywheel notch to zero, pull the distributor and make the oil pump drive notch parallel to the center line of the crank, and then align the small hole in the cam gear with the one inch long rib on the valve cover, or slightly tward the backside of it. No need to pull accessory belts off or see crank gear/I shaft marks and usually works for me. So you're saying it has less pep at 10 PSI than it did at 15PSI. Hmm, weird...

    AJ (no More Alan) 84 Rampage RT TIII/568 Quaife 87 GLHS dealer optioned Red 16V Masi/568/Quaife
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  7. #47
    boostaholic Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: 89 Daytona losing power

    Quote Originally Posted by 2.216VTurbo View Post
    There's a million ways to time the cam but using 'all the marks' never works for me I pull the #1plug, put the piston all the way up, align the flywheel notch to zero, pull the distributor and make the oil pump drive notch parallel to the center line of the crank, and then align the small hole in the cam gear with the one inch long rib on the valve cover, or slightly tward the backside of it. No need to pull accessory belts off or see crank gear/I shaft marks and usually works for me. So you're saying it has less pep at 10 PSI than it did at 15PSI. Hmm, weird...

    No it feels a little more sluggish off the line. I know it will make less hp at 10 psi. It just doesn't feel as responsive to the gas pedal. That's what makes me think the cam is one tooth retarded.

  8. #48
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    Re: 89 Daytona losing power

    Quote Originally Posted by 2.216VTurbo View Post
    There's a million ways to time the cam but using 'all the marks' never works for me I pull the #1plug, put the piston all the way up, align the flywheel notch to zero, pull the distributor and make the oil pump drive notch parallel to the center line of the crank, and then align the small hole in the cam gear with the one inch long rib on the valve cover, or slightly tward the backside of it. No need to pull accessory belts off or see crank gear/I shaft marks and usually works for me. So you're saying it has less pep at 10 PSI than it did at 15PSI. Hmm, weird...

    Alan,

    Thank you very much for your cam timing proceedure. It worked like a charm! I was wrong about the cam timing. When I set everything at TDC, it wasn't off a tooth, it was off two teeth!!! Not sure how I managed that, but I managed to get it reset last night, turned it over 2-3 revolutions, and checked it again. This time it was spot on.

    Also changed the valve cover gasket while I had the covers off. I think that was my major leaker... The old one was hard as a rock, and the passenger side rear corner had been pinched. I'm pretty sure that's why the back of the block was all wet... I now know why all you guys search out one piece valve covers.... That job is SO much easier with that style vs the old end seals & RTV.... I had it changed out in less than 20 minutes. On my Scamp it takes a good hour, and I end up a mess with RTV everywhere... Note to self: find a one piece TBI cover for the Scamp...

    Once I was done with all that, I took it for a test drive... Oh yeah, the power is back baby!!!
    Last edited by 83scamp; 04-14-2015 at 08:58 AM.

  9. #49
    Supporting Member Turbo Mopar Contributor jonnymopar's Avatar
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    Re: 89 Daytona losing power

    It's pretty remarkable how forgiving the turbo cars are regarding cam timing. If you had a TBI car off one tooth, it would feel like it has no will to live. With the turbo car, you're off two teeth and things just feel a little funny.

    Keep up the good progress and get a manual in that car!
    Jon J.

    1989 Daytona ES 2.4L DOHC
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  10. #50
    Rhymes with tortoise. Turbo Mopar Staff cordes's Avatar
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    Re: 89 Daytona losing power

    Glad to hear the issue is resolved. Nice work.

  11. #51
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    Re: 89 Daytona losing power

    Quote Originally Posted by 83scamp View Post

    I changed the front cam & crank seals yesterday. They were leaking pretty bad. The rear main is leaking too, but that's a big job. I think it will wait for the 5-speed conversion... Got it all back together, and I think the cam is retarded one tooth... Doesn't seem to have quite as much "pep" as before. I checked it 3 times before putting it all back together... it is so tough to see all the marks with the engine in the car...

    Drove it to work this morning, and it's running great. Never missed a beat. I did discover that I have the infamous HVAC vacuum issue. Step on it, and it goes to defrost... I need to check into that. Given that it won't go back to where I set it until I get off the gas and it sees about 20" of vacuum, I'm assuming it's a leak inside, but I will check the check valve as well.

    ..
    Use a timing light to verify cam timing, just get it running, if the timing is set at 12 deg, aim the timing light thru the window in the timing cover and you should see the slot of the cam gear, if not, you have it out.

    I bet the check valve isn't checking,
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  12. #52
    boostaholic Turbo Mopar Contributor
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    Re: 89 Daytona losing power

    Quote Originally Posted by turbovanmanČ View Post
    I bet the check valve isn't checking,
    I found it. It was a combination of a pin hole in the line going through the firewall, and the check valve isn't working correctly. I fixed the leak last night. I have a check valve on order. It will be a few days before it arrives.

    I also repaired my odometer last night, so now it works.... Found the gears on ebay...

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