Can anyone shift their trans quickly without grinding into 2nd?
EDIT: GRINDING INTO SECOND !
If so what clutch do you have?
Also does the throw to third gear feel like 2:30 to you?
Can anyone shift their trans quickly without grinding into 2nd?
EDIT: GRINDING INTO SECOND !
If so what clutch do you have?
Also does the throw to third gear feel like 2:30 to you?
Last edited by 168glhs1986; 04-03-2015 at 04:59 PM.
The only 555 I have left is in the 89 CSX, it doesn't grind on the 2/3 but it's definitely notchier and takes a lot more effort than the 523/568's in just about everything else I have.
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With the STS and rod ends on the cables it's better, but still miss it occasionally. Position is about 1:15 for me. I'll let you know how it is when I get the trans ends of the cables done and the TU clutch put in.
I did run across a post on here about fixing the side to side trans lever / roll pin that was reported to help a lot.
Hmmm. I have STS and TU clutch and I still have issues . Made changes to my lever and better but not a modern shifter feel. My STS and 568 in the 86 glhs shifts awesome
What RPM are you shifting at?
Yes I did. I have the 4 puck purple in both the GTP and the GLHS. Best clutch ever....but I think Chris changes the fulcrum point in his clutches......at least that's what one of my friends says.....the clutch could be part of the problem.
Mike
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Normally the shift light is set at 7200 but the RPM gauge broke in the middle of my last run at Cecil so I shifted by sound. I bet that was more like 8200 ish. All I know is it sounded different then before
I didn't grind during that run either.....but it's far from a quick shift.
The TU site says the fulcrum is changed to provide the same pedal "feel", but if that's the case, it might now allow for enough free play.
The only thing I can think of is that the GTP's have a hydraulic setup vs cable and there might be more range in the cable setup. I think the clutch on the GTP's is super light anyway but I'm used to a 3 finger plate from my old Duster.
I got the 232mm 6 puck btw. I don't plan on doing a clutch for as long as I have it. From what I hear it's pain.
Keep us posted if you find a fix.
Player1up. I'm sorry my issue was grinding into second gear. Sorry it's been a while since I've driven it and Brian had to remind me.
So if you had no grinding with the stock clutch and then have grinding with the TU clutch, that will pretty much clear things up for me.
I hope that's not the case but I'll be following closely.
Mike
I can shift to second fast with mine. ...all stock here.
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Same here. 2nd was fine. I'll get the clutch in this weekend and the suspension rebuilt by the weekend after that... I'll let you know how it is.
Does anyone have adjustable front shocks?
I don't own a GTP ( ), but I do own an A555 and I want to say I've driven all of the transmissions (in all states of functionality...totally clapped out to just being rebuilt) except the A525..I don't know that I've ever driven one! LOL
Anyway...no matter the clutch (stock or aftermarket) or transmission (A520/555/523/543/568), I have issues being able to "cleanly" fast-shift into 2nd. I personally have to slow myself down in order to not get a small "crunch" if I fast shift to 2nd. I do NOT "power shift" (aka no-lift shift). I personally feel that the issue is a combination of the clutch inertia and the gearset inertia overpowering the 1/2 synchro.
I have tried to see if it's a timing thing on my part while shifting fast (like if I'm not waiting until the clutch is fully disengaged before pulling on the shifter), but each time I find that it doesn't seem I'm missing my timing...the hard parts just can't keep up. I've also tried different fluids in the transmission with no real change.
My next step will be to move to a solid hub clutch disc to lower to rotating inertia. There have been a number of people on the forums that have experienced high rpm shifting issues that have made this change with positive results (I am unwilling to say it "solved" the issue, because it didn't).
I don't think this was any help, but maybe it sheds some light that this isn't an isolated issue you are experiencing.
Preliminary update:
On initial install the clutch was disengaging at the very bottom of the pedal travel and the car was nearly impossible to get into 2nd.
5 min later...After adjusting the pedal to put engagement / disengagement right around 1/2 pedal, 1-2 shift was about the same as with the original clutch.
Adjusting it higher in the pedal travel ( around the first 1/3 of pedal depression ) it's easier to shift into 2nd....BUT I only ran it through the gears a couple of times.. I didn't leave it there because I didn't check throwout bearing clearance at this level. What should the free play be on the bearing and how do I measure it? That tiny window at the top of the trans isn't big enough
Keep in mind that I have the car limited to 8psi for now and these were 4-5k RPM shifts and were quick shifting tests only, not "power" shifts with huge loads on the engine before or after the shifts.
It's going to be very rpm dependent because the synchro is slowing the RPM of the clutch and input shaft. I wouldn't be surprised if something that felt perfect a 5k felt like crap at 7500.
Dont push the red button.You hear me?
^^ this is what we experienced. Fine for engine break in first. 200 miles. Then I really put this motor thru hell and back. Drove it like I stole it and there is is the 1-2 crunch. Where did that come from? Likely there from day 1.
Thanks for the feedback player1up !!
If its an earlier unit with the brass 1-2 synchronizer you may find its never going to shift exactly right. Chrysler/new process changed the 1-2 synchronizer 3 times over the production span of the 2.2/2.5 in an attempt to get it smoother. The first 4 speed and until the early 5 speed units came with all small brass rings on 1-4 or 1-5, then the larger 1-2 brass rings to give more friction surface and then finally the 3 piece 1-2 design with yet even more and higher coefficient friction surface.
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Thanks for this info ^^^. We are getting the newer design synchros
What fluid are you running. I have had issues with grinding gears when using motor oil in my transmissions (2-3 shift in 523/568), once I switched to synchromesh I get perfect shifts.
Every transmission I have torn apart for whatever reason has had good brass but most of them still had grinding issues. The only thing I could ever figure on them is that it is too easy for the 3 struts to compress the spring and the pressure on the brass ring is too little to push the oil out of the way. A few others have tried doubling up the springs on the inside of the synchros to increase the pressure that is applied by the struts and it seems to be working.
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