okay mbs on the way, Cindy said get a helper spring for WGA too, what should I look for and strength?
okay mbs on the way, Cindy said get a helper spring for WGA too, what should I look for and strength?
Originally Posted by TopGunRMNP
This says you don't need helper spring.
Check every vacuum line for leaks, and make sure the coupler that connects the turbo to the intake doesn't have a rip, tear, hole etc in it. If all that is good, then it's a cal or wastegate solenoid issue.
Will do, I need to replace all the lines anyway I guess. When I did seafoam last week I didn't get a whole lot of smoke with 61k miles, but some did come from the turbo area. This never happens on my SRT4 and I get tons of smoke out the back every 30k I do it. Could this be part of it?
Also, why is no wastegate helper spring needed?
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I am getting about 10inHG at idle, and 12inHG when downshifting or coasting, that's completely wrong..
Have you checked the cam timing? That is crazy low vacuum. I would check with a different gauge first then look at timing.
Guess what folks. .. Drove it down to 5,000'where college is and got 14psi! Previous video was 7-8,000' the tune or map must be recognizing low oxygen at baro, and placing a safer 10psi cap on the cal?
Is the stage 2 tune designed for only 10psi in 1st gear? Is this protective, or an issue? I can still heat vac leaks so those will be addressed.
Looks good? Cindy Lindsay
1985 Chrysler Lebaron Turbo Coupe Stage II: https://youtu.be/O6-eT6mGG-Y
Also, from this last video it looks like psi forms quite late in these cars, what can I do to increase turbo response time (decrease turbo lag)?
Last edited by TopGunRMNP; 03-30-2015 at 02:52 PM.
might want to start with the low vacuum issue first.... once that's OK, see how the car runs before making any more changes
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Will do. I see 1 line broke. If I follow from EGR to the ventilator thing on the passenger side, it connects to another line going back over the fuel rail then stops. Where's it supposed to go? I feel no pressure or suction when on though.
would I want a 4.8lbs or 12.5lbs helper spring to get the tired WGA to 14?
If it shot past 10PSI you don't need a helper spring. Frankly, even a beat old TI WG can should easily hold that if it works at all. That's a pretty large can.
If the boost is going past 10psi with the line disconnected you don't need a helper spring.
10" of vac might be ok at that elevation though I bet the followers have flat spots on them and the cam is probably a bit worn. When I go from 2000ft to 3-400ft I usually gain 1-2" of vac. So 15-17 on a normal 2.2 at 2000ft might be 10" of vac at 7-8000ft.
The cal might not be able to adjust itself enough to sin the turbo fast enough to create the desired boost level. So it either need a re-cal or an MBC. But then a MBC kind of defeats having a cal anyway.
Roger both statements, makes sense. I was figuring that was what was going on with elevation. Okay, so the new question is, should I keep the stage2, or send it back and get a mbc then adjust with wideband? No true benefits from the cal, fan cycle, fuel, spark, etc like it says?
I plan on doing the timing belt soon and read you can adjust 18* per tooth, is there a setting I can put the car in to perform better above 5,000-10,000?
Keep the Stage 2 and just use the MBC to adjust boost.
What do you mean exactly by adjusting per tooth? If you mean cam timing, no way you would do 18*. Each tooth is 9*, but you don't want to move the cam more than 4* generally speaking. Advancing it will help power come in a little sooner.
thank you! OK I won't change timing. I'll keep stg2 and get a mbc While looking for vac leaks. How do you guys find your leaks?
Based on my new discoveries from the 30/30 Autometer in my SRT now, this stock SRT gauge is indeed FUBAR.
I would read 21-22 guessed PSI on the stock gauge in the SRT with 91oct tune, then between the screws bottom dead center which I guess to be 26psi with the e85 tune.
Based on my diablo sport PID's of 218.60 AVG MAP - 84.40 BARO = 19.46psi spike, which is what the new 30/30 is showing me.
So, including the noticeable vac leak that I need to find... This SRT gauge is indeed wrong regardless, so I will have to get another one sadly.
#cantgetpicturestowork
Last edited by going4speed; 04-06-2015 at 10:40 PM.
Those SRT gauges were notorious for going bad.
to bad were not neighbors i would just fix your car then you wouldn't have to waste all this time on the ineternet good luck man
Alright, SRT Gauge working well and installed, AEM UEGO Wideband working well and installed.
1985 T1 Chrysler LeBaron Coupe': 2.25" Gutted Exhaust, 1 step colder plugs, KN Intake filter, FWDperformance Stage II 14psi LM
Running crazy rich at WOT, feeling sluggish. Where do I go next? I still need to do a vac/boost leak test and unsure how to start that.
Hits 14psi only on flat roads, sometimes only in 2nd, sometimes in all 3 gears. The SRT Gauge is accurate to 18psi, just cross referenced back on the SRT when I brought boost down to 18 on 91oct, then logged via DSP to compare.
***MUTE THE VIDEO WHEN IT OPENS*** Noisy garbage background.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-XNdrt78uA
When driving it goes between 11.7-15.6 AFR, a bit crazy huh? The lower numbers are when coasting, or slowing down and higher when accelerating part boost or still in Vac. It looks like that's all safe and good, it just responds slowly. My SRT-4 stays between 14.7-15.2 with any around town driving. Video taken at 5,200ft.
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Maybe i'll take a day this summer and bring it out to SLC and we can get her purring sound, i'll treat ya to some In N' Out Burgers!
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