I'm wanting to add a airdam to my Pbody. What would be better, a airdam off the core support like the early Daytona's. Or a garden edging lip attached to the bumper like the neon guys run, and then filling in the gap between the bumper and core support? I would think the lip on the bumper would be better, especially with a FMIC.
Filling the gap would be beneficial no matter where you end up placing the air dam. Also the early TurboZ daytonas had that gap completely closed off as well to keep a high pressure zone in front of the rad. The nice thing about having the dam back farther is you don't scrape it so easily. But I started using the S10 setup because it was almost a perfect match to the front air dam the TurboZ's had, then it just migrated to all my cars and now lots of others have gone with it.
As long as the gap is filled I think both would function close to the same. The one farther back might give the engine bay a bit more vacuum in it as it would have less space to possibly dilute the vacuum area before it gets there if you get what I'm saying.
I was thinking of building something along the lines of the neongoodies monster airdam. But I'm just going to build a flange and then bolt a heavy piece of rubber belting to it so I could make it bigger and not worry about bending it. I work as a fabricator now and have access to a 10ft brake and shear. But that won't wrap around, how important is that? I was thinking of going all the way across the core support and then bring the rubber down at least 4in. More if I can. What did you use to fill the gap from the core support and bumper?
- - - Updated - - -
Neongoodies airdam kit.
http://www.neongoodies.com/Goodies/Monster_Airdam/Monster_airdam.shtml
I used a large sheet of that plastic cardboard stuff they make signs out of. It's light, stiff and easy to cut. I like the S10 style vs that neon style as it wraps around the sides and blows air out around the wheels/tires as seen in this pic which reduces drag.
Even though it doesn't fit all that well on a K body it still functions good. I like it much better on my ShelbyZ, my old GLH (reeves has a good pic of it on his) and even on a Voyager LX mini.
I was driving through about 2-4inches of snow on the freeway at 60mph, Works well as a snow plow too
Where would I find that sign material? Sounds perfect.
we had some at work, but I bet one of those sign making places has it. There's a place local around here called Fast signs. Might be one in your area.
They use good lightweight plastic sign material on some election ads. Might try to score some for zero dollars the day after a vote.
Coroplast
My neighbor was up for re election
He lost, I won
I plucked huge sheets out of his trash
We actually do have a fast signs in tricities. I wonder if you can buy it in 4x8 sheets. Might work good to make super light weight door panels. Probably work fine to fill the hole from cutting out a spare tire well too! You've got me thinking now Jay! Lol.
S10 airdam on my GLH at the track
Home Depot has it as well.
Whenever I have an extended length airdame, it seems to get knocked off. Most annoying experience was when I took the airdam I liked a lot off my Duster and put it on my Daily driver for a thousand mile trip. Something in the road tore the airdam off the car a mile after the freeway entrance. There went my attempt to improve fuel economy.
Brent GREAT DEPRESSION RACING 1992 Duster 3.0T The Junkyard - MS II, OEM 10:1 -[I] Old - 11.5@125 22psi $90 [U]Stock[/U] 3.0 Junk Motor - 1 bar MAP [/I] 1994 Spirit 3.0T - 11.5@120 20 psi - Daily :eyebrows: Holset He351 -FT600 - 393whp 457ft/lb @18psi 1994 Spirit 3.0T a670 - He341, stock fuel, BEGI. Wife's into kid's project. 1990 Lebaron Coupe 2.2 TI/II non IC, a413 1990 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1993 Spirit 3.0 E.S. 41TE -- 1994 Duster 3.0 A543 1981 Starlet KP61 Potential driver -- 1981 Starlet KP61 Parts -- 1983 Starlet KP61 Drag 2005 Durango Hemi Limited -- 1998 Dodge 12v 47re. AFC mods, No plate, Mack plug, Boost elbow -- 2011 Dodge 6.7 G56
I like using the air dam off of a 1st gen Ford Explorer (90-94). I've installed one on my mini-van http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...all&highlight= and my '85 T&C wagon http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...all-on-a-K-car.
I think it depends what you're trying to accomplish with the air dam. If it's for better fuel economy you want it as far forward as possible to keep air from dragging on inconsistencies under the vehicle. If you want to pull more air through your radiator you're going to want to place it further back and under the radiator support.
How do hood vents fit into this equation when trying to create a vacuum in the engine bay? Does it help or make things worse? I'm talking about the factory ones. I've noticed over the years the TM's I've owned with the vents have noticeably cooler under hood temps when you pop the hood after a long drive.
I don't know how hood vents factor in. I put them on my van because of AZ summers, I wanted to vent the heat after I parked and shut the engine off. On my wagon with a T-II radiator, a big fmic, and the AC on, the factory vents didn't help at all because it ran at 230* on the highway.
I had a Daytona that I put a reverse facing hood scoop/cowl induction scoop and at 5-10 mph if there were leaves or other debris on my hood by the opening they would get sucked into the scoop/engine compartment. I don't know if the hood vents play the same type of roll.
Man that's some bad luck.Originally Posted by Ondonti
That's a good question. They're far enough fwd from the window base that they have airflow going over them and helping to create a vacuum in the engine bay from what I've seen on my GLHT with snow and it's S10 airdam. I cut the back of the buldge out of the hood you sold me years ago after I got it and had similiar findings to what AJ had. Soon as I hit 10-15mph the test yarn I taped around the opening got sucked in with the nose sealed off and the S10 airdam.
I'll have to put some test yarn on the SL vent and throw the S10 airdam on it and see what happens.
Well if it sucks in that's a good thing right? The vacuum you are talking about creating is pulling fresh air in through the vent. I'm perfectly okay with that. If the yarn went out that would mean you have positive pressure right? A.J. you have vents in your vans hood don't you? I know your a busy man but it would be awesome if you could do the yarn test for us.
I'm actually planning on installing a 1gen Daytona vent on my shadow since it has a flat hood. It's a big vent compared to the others, and I already have it. I think it will look pretty sharp too. Should I find out how far it is from the windshield on a to a or just put it where it looks best?
I don't think that's a good thing because you want the vacuum created by the air dam to pull air through the radiator. Cool air flowing around the engine does little to cool it compared to air flowing through the radiator.
I'll try the yarn test on my van's vents.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
