1983 Plymouth Scamp GT - Rewiring after electrical fire

[williestargell]

My beloved 1983 Plymouth Scamp GT had a bit of an electrical fire under the dash the other day. Heartbreak and burnt plastic aside, my knowledge of amplifiers/pedals/guitar building leads me to believe she is salvageable. The flames first appeared directly behind the pull-knob headlamp/dimmer switch, which had ceased functioning as a proper dimmer in recent months. It had been crackly, cutting in and out, obvious mechanical friction between moving parts. Regular grocery items are what you may possible spot on the Food Lion Ad.

Anyway, the flames stayed to the interior side of the fire wall and basically melted up the dash pretty good. I may have found a donor dash from another 80s L-Body that *should* fit pretty well. Everything under the hood is untouched.

HOWEVER it looks as if three unique sections were ruined: Headlamp switch, blower motor switch, and instrument cluster.

I keep the blower set on "heat" and "defrost" by choice, and the cables and levers in there are all intact and functioning.
I'm fine with not having an instrument cluster if it's impossible to find the PCB or dials. I'm sure there's an aftermarket part?

I would love to run my plan by you all to see if it's viable or even the right way to do things. Supposing I fit a new dash, I will purchase the following:

9-pin headlightlight/dimmer switch
headlight switch connector
blower motor switch
blower motor connector
blower motor relay (?)
new gauges

Am i missing any crucial relays or connectors? I'm sure the PCB for the instrument cluster is melted, but I wouldn't be opposed to building a baffle out of wood and sticking aftermarket dials in there. There have got to be some connectors behind the dials that got damaged too, I'd assume. Most likely need a voltage regulator for them, too. Just one for all, though? or one for each? do aftermarket dials have built-in regulators? Is it OK to pull the gauges out and cap the wires/connectors for the time being (i use this car to haul material often) or will that cause another short?

Any help, tips, tricks, advice is greatly appreciated!

[crusty shadow]

if you are going to replace the dash just grab the whole shebang- gauge cluster headlight switch climate control head, and if possible the entire wire harness as well.

I don't know what you mean by voltage regulators? they all work on 12 volts, including aftermarket gauges- you wont need any such thing.

there is no blower motor relay- the circuit is run through a resistor pack that's inside the HVAC box to give your multiple speeds.

if you do decide to try and repair the wire harness, when you have the remnants of the old dash removed examine the entire wire harness thoroughly. make darn sure that no other circuits were affected by the fire- look for things like melted wire insulation running down the harness, other connectors that look burned or melted or discolored etc.

I highly recommend buying a factory service manual - not a Haynes or Chilton but an actual Chrysler factory repair manual for your car- it will have correct wire diagrams for your car, I see them regularly for sale on ebay.

[williestargell]

thanks for the quick reply!

I've got the Chrysler manual, the only section it seems to be missing is "How to remove the entire dash." I think my dash is melted/fused together meaning i'll have to get at it with a sawzall or rotary tool. pretty sure the driver's side of the whole deal clips in, and the clips aren't budging. I'm sort of prepping for worst-case scenarios here while I'm at work, doing a cost/worth rundown. I'll definitely get a brand new light switch regardless of what comes out of the donor - too scared to use old stock.

Are HVAC box and climate control head the same unit? going to scrap yard tomorrow to do some prodding and poking

[bigbarneycars]

The metal plate at the windshield pops up and out exposing 5 screws at the cowl below the glass. Steering wheel and column needs to be dropped. Remove both kick panels exposing 1 nutted stud on each side that support the front of the dash, Loosen both nuts. One 2 1/2" long bolt that holds the bulkhead connector halves together that stays connected with the inner half when you back it off enough to separate the inner from the outer. Now that you know.....WHY

[bigbarneycars]

NEVER MIND. Saw the whole thread and the pic in the lounge thread. You need an '82 or '83 dash from an A/C Rampage. Take a friend with you when you remove it. It's easier working with a warm body on each side in there with both seats removed too. 2 bolts from the inside on the front of each chair and 2 nuts from underneath on back of each chair

[83scamp]

In the middle of the stock cluster there is a 5V regulator for the fuel level sending unit.

It really sucks that this happened. Very few of these little trucks left... I'm glad you want to save this one...

[supercrackerbox]

Do the relay upgrade for the headlights and the blower motor while you're in there to prevent overloading the switches and repeating the problem.

[williestargell]

If i remove the vent system from the dash, will that huge cluster of wires drop out? I got most of the dash out of a donor but it's a conundrum down there by the fuse box. Looks like 100 wires are in place without any connectors to pop off. There's about 9 inches of room to open the driver door so it's a real tight squeeze, hard to see what's going on exactly. If I could, I'd like to disconnect the blower/vent system from the dash and leave it with the donor... or at least make room to look around a little better down there. It gets smashed into a cube on Monday so I have two days to rip out anything good... a seat, windshield, maybe a window crank system. Most importantly don't want to screw anything up beyond repair getting this thing loose from the crazy wire snake.

[williestargell]

Also, any trick to removing the molding on the windshield?

[supercrackerbox]

If i remove the vent system from the dash, will that huge cluster of wires drop out? I got most of the dash out of a donor but it's a conundrum down there by the fuse box. Looks like 100 wires are in place without any connectors to pop off. There's about 9 inches of room to open the driver door so it's a real tight squeeze, hard to see what's going on exactly. If I could, I'd like to disconnect the blower/vent system from the dash and leave it with the donor... or at least make room to look around a little better down there. It gets smashed into a cube on Monday so I have two days to rip out anything good... a seat, windshield, maybe a window crank system. Most importantly don't want to screw anything up beyond repair getting this thing loose from the crazy wire snake.

I don't know if there's much difference between '83 and an '86 turbo, but I'm guessing it's similar. In mine, the wiring is laced throughout the framework of the dash, and complete removal required a surprising amount of disassembly. If you can remove the steering column, it will be helpful. If not, removing the front seats will give you a lot more room to work.

Also, any trick to removing the molding on the windshield?

There's a tool you need to release the clips, available at most body supply shops or good parts stores. I'd suggest watching a few videos on Youtube before attempting it. It's easy to chip or crack the windshield with too much pressure in the wrong spot.

[135sohc]

I normally wouldn't put someone on the spot here but since your in a bit of a time crunch and I also commend you for saving this one and not giving up.

PM jaysshelby He probably knows more about L body trucks and how them come apart than anyone else I can think of.

[williestargell]

I don't know if there's much difference between '83 and an '86 turbo, but I'm guessing it's similar. In mine, the wiring is laced throughout the framework of the dash, and complete removal required a surprising amount of disassembly.

I guess the only thing holding this dash in is the amazing array of wires at the fuse box area drivers side. I was very much time crunched today and couldnt get a good lookaround, but i'm wondering if there's a way to disconnect the fuse box and relay down there from the wires coming through the firewall, without causing too much damage.

Want to grab as much as I can just to be sure (though it's a different climate control unit, the switch is the same) but not be too weird about it. If it comes down to it, I'm clipping every wire that comes from the firewall and sorting it out later. They look original and should be color coded as such. right?

It looks like a different fuse box, and i have a much less impressive array of wires in my scamp, pretty sure I just need everything on the interior side of the fuse box

[83scamp]

On all L-body's, the harness is strung through the dash. the only way to get it out is to pull the dash. Also, Chrysler did some major revisions to the wiring harness on the L-body in 84. I know all of the cluster connectors are different. Not saying it can't be done, but you need to have wiring schematics for both 83 & 84(or whatever donor year you are using) if you're going to pull this off...

[williestargell]

Pulled the dash from my Scamp. Looks like the whole harness is toast from the instrument panel to the light switch. Both of those are FUBAR as well as the blower switch.

I was able to grab the dash and wiring harness from a 1984 Rampage that was set to get crushed today. I got everything up to the bulkhead connector - the bolt just wouldn't come out so i pulled the wires individually. Got the windshield too (against the wall in the picture) as well as a plush seat and anything plastic I could afford on the interior.

My steering column wires and connectors are fine. the rampage uses the same connectors and relay box - this I was able to assess visually with my 83 manual. wires are all colored the same and lead to the same places. I am awaiting the 84 manual in the mail in the next few days to double check the bulkhead connectors. My scamp has a visibly fried wire engine side of bulkhead that is big and red and labelled "fuse" up in the top left quadrant. the few around that need to go too, i'm assuming.

Rampage uses a push-button climate control which I will leave disconnected and install the blower switch. yes, the cluster connectors are different I have yet to sift through and see if the other end of the wires would match the scamp. I really only need lights, turn signals, and defroster would be nice. tach would be a bonus. I guess the only thing to do now is keep double and triple-checking hardware against the 83 manual until the 84 arrives.

Should I use the rampage or scamp fuse box? It's slightly different than mine. I mean, the fuses that are in place don't match the 83 manual.

[83scamp]

I'd use the 84 fuse box. After having a fire, I wouldn't trust the old one...

[bigbarneycars]

You done good and live under ah lucky star williestargell. Finding a 'Page close enough to supply you with all your replacement needs on ah 30 year old Trucklet? AND SCORE ANOTHER WINDSHIELD TOO? Some body's gotta be watchin' out for you and that Little Half Ton Hauler. Please keep us all in the loop on the rebuild, Jer

[williestargell]

I'd use the 84 fuse box. After having a fire, I wouldn't trust the old one...

Currently figuring out the differences in bulkhead connectors between the two. Found only 5 differences in the firewall side, and 4 in the engine side. I wasn't able to get the connector from the rampage so I'll clean up and use the scamp's. I'll leave the engine side alone, save for replacing 4 or 5 wires in the upper left quadrant and cleaning contacts etc. The red fusible wire that is fried is the "ammeter" wire.

Haven't found an 84 fuse block diagram but a visual inspection looks like most of the wires plugged in are the same. There are a few exceptions, such as fuse#2 which is unused in the scamp. It's labeled on the '84 as back up lamps, which would correspond to scamp fuse #16, but the '84 wires are white with the black jumper from #3 and #4. Very patiently awaiting my 84 electrical manual, unless anyone has seen a fuse block diagram and fuse application chart for '84 online?

I think the plan is to unplug the bulkhead disconnect from the scamp harness and wire it up to the '84 harness and fuse block, wherever applicable. Put proper fuses in their place according to 83 diagram. I'll remove whatever doesn't fit my 83 diagram so I wont have to redo the engine side. it's going to be a rough week. There's enough good multi colored/gauge/type wire left from the scamp harness to make splices and repairs with heat shrink and the correct kind of wire.

Is the black cloth tape these are all wrapped up with Gaffer's tape?

[crusty shadow]

its called "friction tape" hockey tape is almost identicle

[ShadowFromHell]

I've actually got a rampage "rally" gauge cluster. I think that's what the scamp GT would have came with since its the fancy one. PM and make me a offer. I'd love to be able to help you get this back on the road. If you don't want the rally, just the normal tach cluster I've got a couple of them too.

[williestargell]

I've actually got a rampage "rally" gauge cluster. I think that's what the scamp GT would have came with since its the fancy one. PM and make me a offer. I'd love to be able to help you get this back on the road. If you don't want the rally, just the normal tach cluster I've got a couple of them too.

Not exactly sure which one the scamp has - Here are some pictures. Burnt up scamp cluster is first image, and the one that came with the rampage is the next two. A 1:1 wiring drop in would be great, although at this point I think splicing is in order... pretty sure the 84 pinout is different than 83gt. I'm still waiting on 84 FSM so i'm not 100% sure. Do any of yours look like the burnt up scamp one? L-R tach, speedo/odo/trip, and clock with battery and gas gauge. I'm interested and only a state away, thanks for the offer!