1983 Plymouth Scamp GT - Rewiring after electrical fire

[williestargell]

The engine side of the bulkhead is MUCH easier to get the male terminals out, thank god. I got all the pins out and unwrapped a few bundles of wire to see what the damage was. Turns out only the two fusible link cables for the Ammeter (#12 and #30) are the only severely damaged wires. BTW good luck finding Hypalon wire, it doesn't exist.

I traced both of these back to their origins, which were both splices. One is an in-line soldered splice, wrapped with tape. The other is off a multiple connection insulator. Since they serve no function any more, they have been removed. I have checked all the other wires, and while there is a bit of singeing here and there, the wires are still quite flexible and no metal is exposed. These few spots have been wrapped with electrical tape. Now my starter circuit should still function correctly, and we will see whether or not the voltmeter on the instrument cluster works. Or if any of the instruments do.

Is it possible to test a Starter Relay with a multimeter? I've got an extra one, though unsure if either still work.

I am now painting any red plastic parts that I can to the original black color. The dash pad is pretty grim, there's a crack the size of the Mariana trench on top of the cluster, and a spiderweb crack nearby. I found http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...pair-Pic-Heavy <-- this website and plan to follow the instructions. It's not the end of the world to have a cracked dash pad, but at this point...

Found a mobile window replacement company that will take out my old window and pop in the new one. I remember the Rampage trim clips being a PITA to undo. Since the car was getting crushed and the trim was corroded, I went a little wild and used quite a bit of effort. It looked to me like the trim clips need to be replaced with the windshield?

Anybody know a part number by chance?

I'll post some pictures when the camera works again

[83scamp]

I PM'd you on the other site, but for everyones benefit, the L-body front windshield clips are P/N 6003409. Available on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Window...mtr&rmvSB=true

[williestargell]

Thanks, 83scamp for the link to the clips!

Just did a dry-fit of the dash harness minus the dash. When I turned the key, nothing happened. No clicks, sounds, smells, nothing. I swapped the starter relay, and now the wipers are on. Like, can't turn them off.
The headlamp switch is not connected, neither is the instrument cluster. there are a few other wires, namely radio, speakers, and door buzzer, that are not connected either.

Guess the next course of action is to make sure all the fuses are good, swap the wiper control relay, and quintuple-check my wiring. It's pouring rain so i'll have to wait a few days.

The only wire that didn't match up engine-side is for the horn slot in bulkhead. instead of DB/RD it was DG/RD - which is the color it is in the 84 models. At least, that's the only wire left and the only place in the diagram it could fit.
one step forward, two steps back.

should probably replace the spark plugs too....

[williestargell]

Replaced all the fuses with correct/new types. Wipers still persistently on when key is engaged. Different wiper control relay didn't help. all sorts of strange things are happening in the steering column. the actual wiper switch on the lever produced a loud clicking sound in the engine. turning on high beams sounded like a flasher relay clicking. All the steering column wires are identical in the manuals. need more daylight.

[williestargell]

She started up today!

went through and realized i had the firewall bulkhead wired backwards. sometimes the brain is weird - definitely checked this a bunch of times.

[GLHS60]

I bet your chest is puffed up 3 sizes!! There's nothing like finding out something yourself.

Thanks
Randy

[Wastelands Warrior]

Good for you, man. You've put in alot of work into fixing your trucklet, and nice to see you are getting ahead nicely.

[83scamp]

Congrats!!


Time and patience... that's all it takes.

[williestargell]

Good luck doesn't come without its fair share of bad.
Through a strange series of events there is a 1983 Dodge Rampage 2.2 in my driveway. It has a bit of engine knock and an odd flywheel opposite the drive belt.


The dashboard is an exact fit for the Scamp GT. I've been working on pulling it and came to a huge road block - Engine side bulkhead just will not come loose. The gasket is clear of the firewall, the whole bolt is out (even though some of these bolts stay in the mount and spin free) and there's got to be 1/8" to 1/4" gap between the two sides. It is frozen in place. I was out there with a pry bar, screwdriver, wd-40, bare hands etc trying to get it to come free. The other two I've dealt with just slide right off with a little wiggle. I don't know what's going on in there but i'll try to hit each individual connection with parts cleaner i guess... really don't want to - Not sure what the best solution would be, since I may not be able to immediately wipe out the plastic. I may hit it with a hair dryer on the engine side and see if the heat will loosen it up any. Hopes aren't high but gotta try. I have a spare engine side bulkhead so I'm not opposed to any suggestions that would result in that one being destroyed with the firewall side intact.

My intention is to put the '84 dash in the red one (since it has the rampage badge and all) and maybe someone wants it when I'm done.

[williestargell]

Soaked all the connections in parts cleaner and it finally came clean. Found one that is supposedly ok for use on plastic

[williestargell]

Well the new (83) dash has been installed and I went for my first test drive since the fire!
Made it about a mile before the check engine light came on. I'm amazed the check engine light works. There's no way to know it's overheating besides that. All the lights work, which is a plus. Except the instrument panel lights. Tach works, speedo/odo not connected, clock busted, voltmeter not connected, fuel gauge probably still shoddy at best due to old float.

The interior blower is not functioning, and I'm thinking that the radiator fan isn't working either. Might be why it overheated. It seemed a little too hot when I opened the hood. No engine smoke though, and nothing caught on fire!

Blower in the donor rampage wasn't working when i got it either, i'm hoping it's a bad switch. actually, the other other dash harness (84) didn't turn on my blower either... maybe it's time to take it to a pro and get a look-over

[williestargell]

Radiator fan switch is bad - tested with a jumper today.
Is it bad to drive 5 miles or so with the radiator fan pigtail jumpered like that so it stays on? Want to take it to my mechanic and avoid a tow if safe. I would wait for it to warm up before jumpering and secure the pigtail under the hood so the wire doesn't fall out.